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#1
07-31-2005, 07:01 PM
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help me write a 100k mile timing-belt "how-to"
I'd like this timing belt "how-to" for replacement of all items under the timing belt covers that should be replaced between 100k-120k miles. Please help me finish this "how-to". I've scanned through quite a few posts covering this topic, but I'm sure I've missed somethings. Please add any useful pieces of info, and when its done, hopefully, it can be added to the "how-to" section on the site.
essential 100k mile parts list 1) timing belt: 13028AA120 2) cam seals x2: 806732150 (updated) 3) front main seal: 806733030 4) water pump assy: 21111AA033 5) water pump gasket: 21114AA051 (updated) 6) thermostat: 21200AA072 (updated) 7) water neck gasket: 21236AA010 8) oil pump o-ring: 806919050 9) other essential parts? optional parts list 1) oil pump assy (includes front crank seal): 15010AA133 2) timing belt idlers (optional): ?? 3) timing belt idler bearings (optional): ?? 4) other optional parts?? tool list 1) custom cam sprocket wrench (long breaker bar with bolts long enough to fit into cam sprocket openings) 2) 2" dia PVC pipe to tape in cam seals 3) c-clamp to position t-belt tensioner 4) three-arm gear puller for removing crankshaft sprocket torque specs cam sprocket bolts: harmonic damper bolt: immortal_suby's t-belt replacement procedure Remove radiator Break crank pulley bolt loose (use long breaker bar and starter) Slide off crank pulley Take off front belts Take off power steering idler pulley bracket Take off A/C idler pulley bracket Remove plastic timing belt covers Rotate engine until all timing marks line up and use chalk or marker to mark belt and pulleys just to make sure. Remove timing belt tensioner Put vise grips or clamp lightly on timing belt on both cam pulleys to keep belt from slipping off pulley and jumping a tooth Remove idler pulley for tensioner Remove toothed crank pulley (slides right off usually) Drill small hole in crank seal Use mechanics pick to pull crank seal out (stick it through hole you drilled) Put grease on new seal and tap it in evenly Use vise to compress timing belt tensioner and put small allen wrench in hole in tensioner to keep it compressed Put toothed crank pulley back on Put tensioner on Put idler pulley on Make sure timing belt is lined up correctly Remove allen bolt from tensioner Put plastic covers on Put the rest of the stuff back on Fill radiator Drive! harmonic damper removal tips 1) AT cars: block the engine from moving by placing a flathead screwdriver in the torque converter teeth. MT cars: stick the car in 5th gear and pull the handbrake tight. 2) Once the crank pulley bolt is off, the harmonic damper should wiggle off, or a puller may be needed. crank seal replacement tips 1) Remove the half-moon key from crank sprocket first 2) Use a gear puller to remove the crank sprocket 3) If the oil pump is being replaced, then crank seal will come off with the oil pump 4) If not replacing the oil pump, drill a small hole in the seal, and hook the seal with a 90 deg pick. cam sprocket removal 1) One method for holding the sprocket stationary is to get a piece of steel with long bolts going through that fit into the space in the cam sprocket. cam seal removal drill small hole in seal, and pull out seal with a 90 deg hook tool (per Beav) oil pump replacement tips 1) oil pump replacement is optional (per Beav and red95svx) 2) use hylomar for sealing the pump agains the engine case (per Beav) boundsie's cam sprocket bolt removal trick Before you take the timing belt off, put a 17mm wrench on one pulley bolt and put your big cheater type 17mm socket on the other pulley bolt and rotate things until the wrench on one pulley is jammed against something solid. (I used a cheater against the floor) Then break loose the first bolt. Reverse the procedure for the other bolt. This will retighten the one you just broke loose but it won't be nearly as tight. Go back to the bolt you just retightened and put the wrench on it and smack the wrench with a soft hammer. Viola! Both bolts broken loose and no damage to the cam pulleys.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. 
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#2
07-31-2005, 07:13 PM
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It looks pretty good. We just need to add in any tips on water pump and oil pump replacement.
Maybe another good thing would be torque specs. If only my service manual wasn't way out in the garage right now.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P.
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#3
07-31-2005, 07:33 PM
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I will help write and covert it to adobe Acrobat format and put it in the How-Tos. It looks like we need pictures as well.
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19
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#4
12-02-2006, 09:34 PM
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Was this how-to ever completed? I couldn't find it in the how-to section & some pics to go with this would be sweet. I'd like to do a t-belt and reseal this winter but I don't even know what the oil pump looks like
 . I'll be fine! I just like to have visuals before I start.
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"The things you own end up owning you. It's only after you lose everything that you're free to do anything." 92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration 96 Legacy Outback (206k) 5-speed 2.2 Lightweight Crank Pulley, Group N Trans & Motor Mounts SOLD Wanted: Steering Wheel
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#5
12-03-2006, 09:41 AM
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I will check on this. Thanks for refreshing the thread. Maybe we can get it done now.
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19
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#6
12-23-2006, 10:48 AM
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rad fianally gave out
I put 'the patch' on my radiator about 2yrs ago and it held until about a month ago. I've got a new one and was considering replacing the timing belt while I had the radiator out. Is there anything else that I should consider replacing? It's a 92 w106k.
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#7
02-03-2007, 01:26 PM
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From the sounds of one of my tensioners squealing, I will probably be doing this procedure shortly, and if I remember, I'll write it up with pictures, etc..
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'93 Anniversary Edition SVX 122k - 3.7 FD 5MT Swap, ECUtune 1a1, Bontrager RSB, Mad Restoration underway! '20 Honda Ridgeline Custom Oil Caps, Battery Bars, Phenolic Spacers for sale here: http://www.x35design.com
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#8
02-03-2007, 01:48 PM
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When you get it done, let me know and I can put it where it needs to be.
I can help edit it if you need help.
__________________
. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19
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#9
02-03-2007, 04:09 PM
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The oil pump seals to the block with an 'o'-ring - replace it if you remove the oil pump. Replacing the oil pump is quite unnecessary, it's something some shops do to run the price up. There's even a TSB from Subaru to clarify this issue. However, removing the pump does make it easy to punch the crank seal out from the back of the pump...
BTW, don't glob a huge amount of sealer to the back of the pump. A thin, almost translucent amount is plenty. A large amount might interfere with the 'o'-ring's ability to seal properly. Many may find that the cam seals are not actually leaking, but rather collecting oil that has been flung from a leaking crank seal. The crank seal is small and gets very hot which leads to it becoming very hard and losing its resiliency. The covers for the timing belt invariably have oil soaked seals, which are impossible to properly reinstall. Now, I'm don't want to start a big discussion by stating this, but the timing belt does not require a hermetic seal. Throw those gawd-awful, stretched out, nasty seals away. There's probably more to worry about should they squish to the inside, get caught in the belt and derail it. If you really have concern for replacing them you might try carefully slitting (lengthwise) some small vacuum tubing and placing it where the seals used to sit.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) Last edited by Beav; 02-03-2007 at 04:12 PM.
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#10
02-03-2007, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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#11
02-03-2007, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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#12
02-03-2007, 09:33 PM
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If you can find it, email it to me at the address in my signature.
__________________
. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19
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#13
02-05-2007, 09:17 AM
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I want to add one thing... Many people suspect the cam seals to leak... while this may be so, I have found it to be more common for the intake cam plugs to leak before the actual cam seals. So, I suggest replacing the intake plugs, cam seals, and oil pump seal(front crank seal), while you are in there... Waterpump isn't a bad idea either
 Tom
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#14
02-05-2007, 12:29 PM
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Definitely the water pump.
__________________
Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads.
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#15
02-28-2007, 08:36 PM
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im currently doing a water pump replacement......i read a little about more things that should be replaced and now planning on doing the whole 100k mile deal. I can take pictures of anything that might be good for the "how to"
please let me know of what you need pictures of before i finish my project. send me a PM
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