Installed cross-drilled/slotted rotors this weekend

EddieSVX · #1 07-11-2005, 01:57 PM

I didn't install the steel-braided lines yet, but dispite the pedal being kind of mushy with the old brake lines, the car stops on a dime.

What I like about it is that it's a really smooth slow down with no fade. Also, the warmer the pads get the better (fronts are full metallic).

These are the ones I purchased from Ben a while back (can't even remember how long ago, probably 5 months ago).

I'm doing the brake lines in a week or so.

Any tips when doing those? Things to watch out for, etc...?

I'll take pics of the rotors in the next few days... They look sexy even with the stock rims.

thundering02 · #2 07-11-2005, 02:10 PM

Make sure you bleed at the air out of the system BEFORE you take that back mountin road at 100 miles per hour.

personally I like my slotted ones and don't overheat the semi metallics and mabe the full metallics or it seems like you glaze them over and it takes a bit to get back to full braking potential.

EddieSVX · #3 07-11-2005, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thundering02

Make sure you bleed at the air out of the system BEFORE you take that back mountin road at 100 miles per hour.

personally I like my slotted ones and don't overheat the semi metallics and mabe the full metallics or it seems like you glaze them over and it takes a bit to get back to full braking potential.

Yup, I try not to come to a complete dead stop... Usually slow down just before a stop light/intersection to about 5 MPH, and then after 10 ~ 20 feet of just letting the car roll then I stop... In hopes that it allows for enough air between the pads to cool em off a bit.

JohnU · #4 07-11-2005, 02:38 PM

I just did my brakes this weekend. When you replace the brake lines make sure you use a good brake line wrench. It looks like a box end wrench with a slot to fit the wrench over the brake line. I could not find mine and ended up using vise grips, which I would not recommend. I ended up finding the wrench when I was putting all my tools away after the job (what a pisser).

The other item of note is the OEM spring clips that hold the brake line in place will not fit on the stainless steel lines from Raceconcepts. I found new clips that worked perfect after visiting three parts stores. They cost 2.50 for a set of 4. I saved the package and will post the information when I get home.

EddieSVX · #5 07-11-2005, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnU

I just did my brakes this weekend. When you replace the brake lines make sure you use a good brake line wrench. It looks like a box end wrench with a slot to fit the wrench over the brake line. I could not find mine and ended up using vise grips, which I would not recommend. I ended up finding the wrench when I was putting all my tools away after the job (what a pisser).

The other item of note is the OEM spring clips that hold the brake line in place will not fit on the stainless steel lines from Raceconcepts. I found new clips that worked perfect after visiting three parts stores. They cost 2.50 for a set of 4. I saved the package and will post the information when I get home.

I actually noticed the size of the clips to literally wrap around the stock lines, which are smaller in diameter... So this is good info.

I'll be on the lookout for your post with the information. Really appreciate it!

#6 07-11-2005, 04:20 PM

This is funny, who didnt do their brakes this weekend? I did with the same slotted drilled Bradi rotors and PBR pads. The good...I really needed them...the bad, found out almost all my brake caliper pistons are sticking

EddieSVX · #7 07-11-2005, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilsegretosvx

...the bad, found out almost all my brake caliper pistons are sticking

How can you tell? So far mine seem to be working fine, but seeing how they're 13 years old, I'd like to know the easiest way to diagnose any such problem.

Actually, the above question may sound like a dumb question, but the reason I asked was because for some odd reason I am thinking they're sticking in (as in, not actually pressing on the pads)... But you may have meant the more common, sticking out, or pressing onto the pads... Which is it?

#8 07-11-2005, 07:03 PM

on almost every caliper one piston is sticking so I dont have even wear on the pads. The easist way I know how to figure out if the are sticking is by taking them off compressing both pistons at the same time and letting go. If one is sticking out further than the other, there you go. The problem is caused by rust and wear. Usally the piston boot is broken allowing water and grime to get in the sleeve and over time it goes bye bye. I practically broke a vise off the work bench trying to compress one side. All the above problems.

EddieSVX · #9 07-11-2005, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilsegretosvx

on almost every caliper one piston is sticking so I dont have even wear on the pads. The easist way I know how to figure out if the are sticking is by taking them off compressing both pistons at the same time and letting go. If one is sticking out further than the other, there you go. The problem is caused by rust and wear. Usally the piston boot is broken allowing water and grime to get in the sleeve and over time it goes bye bye. I practically broke a vise off the work bench trying to compress one side. All the above problems.

Oh... hmmm... Then I definitely don't have that problem as my pads were wearing off evenly (fronts). The rears weren't as even, but they're single piston so that's to be expected to a degree.