svx codes

just did a code read on my svx 92. got #37,22,23,32,13. 13 was the frist. dont know if order maters. the engine shakes and the exsust has a sucking. it me that is a miss fire. but could be wrong. what would be my next step in fixing this problem?

[lee]

maybe other will chime in (who have more experience), but I'd fix #13 (cam position sensor) first. The codes for the O2 sensors, etc. could be false readings as the engine is running so bad.

[ensteele]

Welcome to the site hextox-1. Hope you get the codes figured out. Good luck.

anyone know an easy way to get to the cam senser (cmp)? if i have to take the timeing belt, off now wold be a good time to replace. any sites that still have svx parts for a good price? thanks for the help every one.

[Speedklix]

Welcome to the site and to the SVX

I would check them first, to make sure there is nothing funky going on with the wires or if one may be unplugged. If you just got it, there is a chance it went through a broker or an auction where some people like to unplug stuff like this to drive the vehicle cost down. If they don't end up with the car, the person who does, doesn't know what to look for. I get cars all the time that have injectors unplugged, sensors, vac hoses pulled, its a real PITA.

if you look at the back of the timing cover next to the oil dipstick neck, you will see one cam sensor. The other two are on the topside of the oil pump, which is behind the crank pulley (the one on the left is the crank sensor). Don't just start replacing them, because it can become an expensive fix that may not be needed.

they are numbers 4 (crank) and 5(cam) here:
http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=090-A

That site is a pretty good place to get oem parts.

The Air flow sensor code bothers me a bit. I would unplug it, check to make sure nothing is jammed in the pins, and plug it back it.
I also pray that your car does not have an ebay 20hp magic box installed

well i did buy the car at an auction. the person hit a deer with it. i had to replace the front end on it. hood, raditor, all hoses, battery. easy fix, only paid 800 for the car. but now it aint so easy. i will check all the camsensors this time. one by the dip stick tested ok. thanks. where is this wounder magic box at if i got one on it.

[Speedklix]

I know no one on here would install such a device, I hope.
but I have seen bids, so I am sure there are svxi out there with em.
you would find something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW
most probably near the ecu which sits under the dash up by the steering column.

I'm not sure, but I think code 13 shows if only that one sensor is bad. Now that we know a bit of history on the car I would suggest tracing all the wire (or wire loom) from the dipstick cam sensor back as much as you can to make sure the wiring was not damaged in the accident. I can't remember if it is one of the wires that sneak through the driver side fender or not, but if there was damage there... it would be a good place to start.

unless you have a mutlimeter ali clips and pins and such... in which case I would just disconnect the batt. unplug the sensor and bridge the sensor harness pins.... crawl under the dash and unplug the cable from the ecu and do a simple continuity test. remember to check with the body too, to make sure they are not grounding out.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...klix/24080.jpg
you would be looking for 7 and 9 on the b59 connector.
This may turn out to be a waste of your time... but it is something I would check out in the same situation.

...who knows, it seems like your problems revolve around things found on b59 and b60, maybe they are just loose????

I dunno, anybody else got any ideas??

ok, i put the 2 blue wires in the 1 and 2 spot, turned the engine on and the codes are not clearing. still the same ones as before. does the ce flash when they are clear. when it is in test mode only and i drive at 7miles or faster the ce blinks once every 1.4 sec. no trouble codes. with how bad it runs it cant be good. maybe iam just doing it wrong. the wires look good on the cam sensor. still get wave move ment.

[Speedklix]

you shouldn't be driving the car in test mode.. in fact, the car should not be running.

To clear the codes you need to have the car OFF
1) insert blues into 1 and 2
2) START the car
3) shut car off

I think that leaving the battery disconnected overnight was a solution for making the ecu forget codes too, never tried it myself though.

To recheck the codes
1) with car off, put one of the blues into 2
2) turn key to on --->do NOT start
3) read the codes
... the steady blink means all clear

At this point any code that pops up should mean that either the wiring or the related item itself is to blame.... after driving around, these could cause more codes to come up. (i assume)

If it reads okay after you clear the codes.. then I would start thinking abou checking the timing belt. If it skipped a few teeth it might be just out of range for the ecu to correct firing, i think it is 7deg-+ ...that should confus the input from the sensors and cause some missfiring i would imagine... not sure how that would affect the air sensor though

If anyone else has any ideas, we are dealing with:

13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit
22 Knock Sensor or Circuit (Right Side)
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side)
37 Oxygen Sensor (No. 2, Left Side)