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#16
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By chance, do you know from what car the brackets came (when you bought the seats). Am I right in assuming they were for an Imprezza?. How much modification did the brackets take to fit into the SVX? I have a set of gray cloth 2002 Lexus IS300 seats (manual operation - really light weight) that I had previously installed in my past car (Honda Accord) and they have much more agressive bolstering than the SVX's. The charcoal color blends well with the SVX dark gray too. If a WRX (Imprezza)seat bracket makes a good starting point for SVX bracket, I'll order a set on eBay right now. |
#17
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That's it, I am sick and tired from the high SVX weight. even though I shaved a lot of it in my car from the bumpers and trunk (empty) I am still feeling the weight. I will continue by the hood which i am doing (fiberglass) and the front seats.
Is the driver's electric seat really necessary? I want to put a lightweight manual one instead since the original one weighs a lot (around 75 - 80 lbs), and it is really slow (the manual one is quicker to maneuver)
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#18
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Yeah the brackets are for a WRX, altho I'm not sure how well they bolt right into thoes cars. I'll have to ask the kid I bought them from about how they mounted in the WRX. The brackets are actually about 1/8th" to narrow and about 3 to 4 inches to short to reach the SVX seat rails. I don't have them mounted yet, there is only one bolt holding the seat in there right now. I will have to look and see if they make different sized brackets for the seats and if not then I take some pics of what I have to do to make them fit.
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92 SVX #772 140k 6speed, ECU Tune stage II, Koni/Ground control, 3,270lbs. 91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch. 78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered) 90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car) To many cars to spend time on teh web! |
#19
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Whenever I feel like playing, I usually scoot my seat forward. (I have long legs and the steering wheel doesn't telescope out far enough.) When I do this, I quickly jerk the seatbelt to get it to lock. Once it's locked, I move the seat forward until the belt is tight against me. (Power seats make this easy.)
When I'm cinched down tight like that, it seems as good as racing bucket seats, but with more freedom of movement for my arms. I'm not sure I'd actually prefer a bucket seat, but I haven't driven with them so I can't say this is as good. In either case, I find this works really well for me. There are very specific design rules for racing in regards to seatbelt position and angles. When they are carefully followed, they do a very good job of keeping you in your seat and they don't hurt you nearly as badly on those rare (or not-so-rare) occasions when you need them. Factory seatbelt design leaves much to be desired, and can really injure you when put to use. (It's still much better than no belts though!) Having the belts tight also prevents secondary collisions. (A secondary collision is when the occupants collide with something inside the car, like someone without a seatbelt hitting the windshield. The primary collision is when the car collides with something.) With loose seatbelts, the secondary collision is with the belts themselves. If the belts are tight during a collision, you slow down at the same rate that the car does. If the belts are loose, the car is well on it's way to being at a complete stop by the time the belts finally go tight. When the car's seatbelts have stopped moving, it's a lot like smacking into a completely stationary object with your waist and shoulder. Anyway, hopefully this is a good hot tip for tightwads like me. |
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