Still have problem w/ no heat and leaking coolant.

[zavikan]

Well, I replaced the upper radiator hose b/c I couldn't see a leak in the radiator, yet there was fluid on top of the belt cover. When I flexxed the old one, it made nasty cracking sounds, so I thought it would do the trick. So I drove it 60 miles this evening, and during the trip I smelled a wiff of coolant on more then one occassion (though can't see any now when looking in the engine bay), and after shutting the car off for an hour and driving again, no heat in the car. I ran Climate Control Diagnostics, and nothing came up that would affect this. Suggestions?? and explain how to do what your suggesting...the cooling system is not a forte of mine.

[zavikan]

its once again becoming undrivable b/c I cant see thru the fogged windshield.... :/ Help? I know some one can give advice

[Earthworm]

Perhaps the heater core has a leak. You're going to need to find this leak. Perhaps wraping towels around any hoses the coolant flows through may help. Has any type of radiator sealant been used in your car?

[zavikan]

not to my knowledge. should I try that?

[Chiketkd]

Originally posted by zavikan
not to my knowledge. should I try that?

Definitely worth a try. Subaru dealers sell some that comes in a blue bottle.

-Chike

Originally posted by Chiketkd

Definitely worth a try. Subaru dealers sell some that comes in a blue bottle.

-Chike

Be careful not to overdo it, though. That stuff can clog as well as seal.

There were multiple threads a while back on my heating issues. The problems just sort of "went away" though (but not until after a lot of $$$ and time was invested). You could have a pinhole leak in one of the lines or in the radiator, and the fluid is burning away before you're even able to diagnose its location.

Since cooling systems are so difficult for the shadetree mechanic to work with, I highly suggest having a radiator shop diagnose at least your radiator. It's pretty cheap for them to flow test it, and then flush it out with some industrial solvents. Only takes a few hours too.

It would be worth the investment, because otherwise you may waste weeks and months trying to fix something that you can't - a hole in the radiator.

BTW - I'm assuming that you've checked/replaced the thermostat... Have you?

[lee]

I'm assuming the car warmed up and ran OK except for the lack of heat/defrost action, yes?

BTW, When my water pump started to go I found coolant up on top, I think the fans blew it up there. Of course this was summertime in Florida, so the A/C was on and the fans were blowing.

Turning to the lack of heat: Check the heater hoses going in and out of the firewall, see if the in/out side are both warm with the engine running and up to temp...could be a blocked heater core and you sure wouldn't want to put any more sealant in if that's the case. If only one side is hot to the touch, then I'd suspect a blocked core. If they're both hot, it may be a door isn't opening inside to allow air to flow over the heater core. That should have set a code, but who knows.

[Beav]

Generally if your windshield is fogging you have a heater core leak. Does the 'fog' smear when you wipe it or does it clean up fairly easily? Do you notice a kind of sweet smell inside the car?

Originally posted by Beav
Generally if your windshield is fogging you have a heater core leak. Does the 'fog' smear when you wipe it or does it clean up fairly easily? Do you notice a kind of sweet smell inside the car?

Good questions... If the inside of your car smells sweet, or in any way similar to maple syrup, then you most likely have a heater core leak.

[Earthworm]

I was asking about the radiator sealant because I thought it was used and is clogging your system. I do NOT recommend using any form of radiator sealants.

[zavikan]

Took it in, and the mech said all he saw was a small drip coming from behind the timing belt cover. so that would be the water pump yes? and if so, advice on how hard this is to do myself?

[lee]

yes, it's likely the water pump. and can you do it yourself - yes if you can change the timing belt (I don't know of any way to take it off without removing the timing belt - maybe somebody else has a trick).

[cbx-man]

Your problems are all inter-related. The bad water pump allows AIR to come into the engine. It migrates UP. It causes air pockets to form which gives you hot spots in the motor and infrequent heater action.

You must replace the water pump.

To purge the air in the system, pull off one end of the upper radiator hose, then pull loose the heater hose @ the left rear of the motor. With the motor running, put a garden hose up to the heater hose and then into the engine ( plug opposing ends with your finger)so water flows out the radiator hose, to flush out the air pocket.

You can do the above first, but it will eventually return unless you add water DAILY to the radiator. After replacing the pump you will need to do the "flush" again to get rid of the air pockets again.

[Beav]

The pressure generated by heating the water in a closed environment precludes the water pump being able to allow air into the cooling system. Water leaks out, air doesn't leak in.

[cbx-man]

When the water drips out the weep hole on the back of the water pump, the air replaces the lost water.

At least that's exactly what was happening when my water pump was going bad, until I replaced it.