Help Asap!!!!!!!!

hexadec0079 · #1 03-13-2006, 11:42 PM

Oh wise sages of the Alcyone......
ok enough BS, I replaced my alternator (got lifetime warranty) a week ago. Alls fine til I go to the car wash and then a hour later my battery, ABS, etc. lights go off. Alternator cable loose, no biggie I think. Tighten it up and no lights, but it now sounds like a lawnmower and is sluggish. I'm thinking its a misfire, so I'll change the plugs tommorrow, I have no school or work, 12 hours to change 6 plugs... fun.

Also on an unrelated matter my tranny is slow in first til 2000rpm when cold, after a minute its fine, I'm thinking a flow problem preventing pressure buildup, so im gonna drop pan and change fluid.

hexadec0079 · #2 03-13-2006, 11:43 PM

oh, also, are there any long term side effects of operating without A or C solenoids?

Thanks for all the help guys!

SSSVX · #3 03-13-2006, 11:57 PM

You went to the car wash? Did you wash your engine?

Is your tranny still under warranty? If yes, or maybe not, you shld go back to check with the tranny shop.

ensteele · #4 03-13-2006, 11:59 PM

If you are going to drop the pan, I would change the filter while you have it off. $30 or so. That will also help the pressure and flow.

hexadec0079 · #5 03-14-2006, 12:33 AM

no warranty on trans, more concerned with engine, thanks

greggbzz · #6 03-14-2006, 09:33 AM

Alternator problems are notorious.

I went through 2 alternators last time, first replacement, from AutoZone, went bad within a week. Second, again, from AutoZone lasted 4 months.
After that I bought a 800CCA battery, an alternator from the Internet (yellow and grey box?), not an American (bald-eagle box) rebuilt and tightened and cleaned all the grounds and wires around the battery and alternator. It's been 8-10 months now and all is good. Also after I did this, everything seemed to run much much better and my lights and accessories are birghter.

SVX-FF · #7 03-14-2006, 10:28 AM

Any codes?

It is very possible that you have fouled out a plug or two or six. With lack of power there may have not been enough electrical power to generate the high temp spark to burn the fuel properly.

I had a similar problem and was kickin the Left O2 sensor code but it was the timing belt had jumped a tooth on the right side.

I reset the timing belt and all was fine.

Steve

hexadec0079 · #8 03-14-2006, 10:35 AM

no trouble codes, but im gonna go change plugs, i think that they are fouled b/c at idle its rough, shaking the engine, and at higher rpms its fine, so i agree with what you guys are saying, it makes sense.

oab_au · #9 03-14-2006, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hexadec0079

no trouble codes, but im gonna go change plugs, i think that they are fouled b/c at idle its rough, shaking the engine, and at higher rpms its fine, so i agree with what you guys are saying, it makes sense.

I don't think it is the plugs, as they would break down under load, not at idle.

Why do you say "oh, also, are there any long term side effects of operating without A or C solenoids?"

If the A solenoid is not working, the line pressure will stay high all the time, the changes will be hard, especially when shifting into D first time from cold. Pump wear will be higher, engine power will be less.

The C Solenoid will not operate the AWD, if it is not working.

Harvey.

hexadec0079 · #10 03-15-2006, 08:16 AM

i am now suspicious of the exhaust instead of plugs. There was a minor leak before and i think that one donut may have blown out causing the sound and rough idle.

PS- anywhere to buy A and C solenoids, and can I replace them in my driveway or do I need to take it to a shop.

SVX-FF · #11 03-15-2006, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hexadec0079

anywhere to buy A and C solenoids, and can I replace them in my driveway or do I need to take it to a shop.

The A solenoid is on the top of the valve body, you will need to drop the valve body to replace. This will take a few hours or maybe a day.

The C solenoid in the rear section. This one is not that hard to replace can be done in about 4 to 6 hours.

You will need new fluid when you do either one so it makes sense to do both at the same time.

I have a C solenoid at my house and I will check today and see it I can get my old A solenoid too.

Steve

intelisevil · #12 03-15-2006, 02:04 PM

Before you replace your Solenoid A, check the transmission resistor located on the inner fender behind the battery. If it's bad, the TCU will often throw a code 11, "Duty solenoid A".

Dan

oab_au · #13 03-15-2006, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hexadec0079

i am now suspicious of the exhaust instead of plugs. There was a minor leak before and i think that one donut may have blown out causing the sound and rough idle.

PS- anywhere to buy A and C solenoids, and can I replace them in my driveway or do I need to take it to a shop.

Why do you want to replace them?

Harvey.

hexadec0079 · #14 03-16-2006, 10:34 AM

ummm because they aren't working....

on a side note, its a exhaust leak, passenger side going into the main cat. Horrible sound and shakes the engine.
I patched it up with exhuast sealer goo until I get my exhaust parts in.

I'm going no cats into 2 sets of dual flowmasters (2 per side) with 2.5 inch tubing, and finish with quad tips, should sound good.