question

so like I get my car "fixed" but theres still stuff wrong with it?
after 1300$ in repair i still have low idle everyonce in a while, and not ideal acceleration, they gave me an error code print out of the one thing they have to look into but they said its gonna be expensive as hell, its dealing with the cams or valve springs or something... the error code printout says this

" Svx code 37 o2 sensor

If after confirming no wiring problems exist between the ecu and the o2 sensor and that the o2 sensor appears to be operative (no physical damage), then cam shaft timing, cam gears, spring washer sprockets will be need to be examined. Also, we have foudn that one intake cam out of timing specification will cause the o2 sensor's readings to differ from side to side. Call the tech helpline for further instructions on diognosis and repair."

does anyone have any indication how much you think this should cost to fix?

or if there are any svx wizzes over here in northeastern ohio who would lend a hand hahahah

[Electrophil]

Couldn't it just be the O2 sensor itself? Why would it have to be the cam or valve springs in an engine that is all but considered bullet proof?

O2 sensors go out. All the time. I'm not sure if 37 is the left or right sensor. I know the 2 have separate codes. (or 3 for the 97.)

Replace the O2 sensors before opening up valve covers.

http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=440-A
$99.02 at subaruparts.com

They can be found cheaper.

they did that i forgot to mention what all they replaced

they replaced MAF

o2 sensors

i think thats all they replaced, it did make the car run better than it did, but its so frusterating driving a car that only accelerates when you hold the gas more than halfway down and anything below that it hesitates

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by Jaundice76

they did that i forgot to mention what all they replaced

they replaced MAF

o2 sensors

i think thats all they replaced, it did make the car run better than it did, but its so frusterating driving a car that only accelerates when you hold the gas more than halfway down and anything below that it hesitates

If you have the 92, you may need to do the bead crush modification on the ECU. It's part of the noise suppression circuitry, and it causes a pretty serious hesitation on them.

There are lots of smarter people on this board than me, and they will chime in, but myself? I'm not buying the cam timing bit on a EG33. I just don't buy it.

If you get a chance, also crawl under the car with a flashlight. Look right after the front headers, on the 2 catylic converters, and see if the sensors look new to you. I'm not getting warm and fuzzies here. My tail isn't wagging.

Do a search on bead crush. There's a "how to" that Earl uploaded a long time ago.

i read the bead crush and i was afraid to do it cus i wasnt sure if i felt confident in breaking the thing cus if i messed up id be fronting the fees lol

but it looks like its necessary at this point, when i get a chance i will look at the sensors, and yeah i get what your saying, i have the feeling they might be ripping me off, i wish more people dealt with this car so i had wider options than just the subaru dealership : /

question, if i am to do this bead crush, how do i reset using the select monitor?? im pretty sure i dont have one of those lol

[Electrophil]

Originally Posted by Jaundice76

question, if i am to do this bead crush, how do i reset using the select monitor?? im pretty sure i dont have one of those lol

Resetting the select monitor reminded me of a service bulletin put out by Subaru on the SVX. Where did I see that? It may have been on the svx-ix site.

Regardless, the service bulletin said to warn customers to not judge the performance of the vehicle for several days. That when the battery is disconnected, it resets the ECU, and it takes quite a few hours of driving for the system to "re-learn" and fine tune the timings, etc.

As for resetting the ECU, I always disconnect the battery, and leave it disconnected for about 30 minutes so any capacitors in the system have time to discharge.

This, of course doesn't do away with the need to do the bead crush. It at least made a huge difference with my car.

The biggest problem you will have on doing the bead crush is putting the ECU back where it goes. You will give up on one bolt, that you will NOT get back into it. But it's really no big deal. Follow the how to step by step, and you'll be fine.

ive reset the car once before because the factory cd player was all staticy on cds so i decided to try and clean up the ground by taking the battery out, but in that process i fried a cd when i reconnected the battery lol, then a cd ended up getting jammed in the factory cd player and so i had to installa new one : /

so im familiar with resetting the ecu i guess you could say, is it easy to pull this mod off as long as you carefully break the resistor without a twisting motion (aka can a 17 yearold kid with little experience in the mechanics feild pull this off successfully?)

thanks for the correspondance, im guessing by the lack of remarks by any other users that this is probably the way to go for now, will that fix the sound that my engine seems to make when accelerating, it kind of sounds like highpitched machinery running when im accelerating, and i cant begin to describe it, but i dont know if its wheel bearings or what but it sounds like its coming from the engine so thats what lead me to think that this problem was originally the cams, and who knows it very well might be which would justify me getting some improved cams for better acceleration : )

but let me know what all of you other svxers think but mostly thanks to electrophil for all of the advice he has already given
what would i do if i didnt find this forum haha

[Electrophil]

Yeah, somehow I must be getting the answers right, or someone would be chiming in... huh! I'm kind of amazed, cause there are some really knowledgeable guys here. I feel a little flattered that they may be looking in and saying, "he's got it covered." (Head swells with non-existant imaginary pride.)

Your radio/CD shouldn't whine. The power system in the car is really clean and well filtered. I would turn off the radio, roll down your window, and see if it's your alternator belt running a little loose. Funny thing..... When the belt is slightly loose, the whine it throws out sounds exactly like a radio inteference whine. It even increases and decreases in frequency like a radio whine with the accelerator... especially if you slightly punch the gas.

Plus.... a shop just worked on your car... They usually get lazy on the last steps such as retightening belts.

Ya never know. Open the hood and rev the car by the throttle under your SVX cover. You'll immediately know if it's the belt. I've never read one thread here on someone having a whine from their radio.

welll it was a deffective cd player, cus the radio worked fine, so i just tore out the radio and cdplayer and installed my own hahah