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#1
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Help with bearing packing!
Lee suggested I post this here, rather than in New member intro.
I am a backyard mechanic (trying to do a man's job!). I have in my hand a new rear wheel bearing, identical to the one I took out of my ailing noisy passenger side (NTN 4T-CRI-08A02). The bearing has a width of about 1 7/8 inch, and on both sides, tapered rollers in a black retainer can be seen. The roller part measures 9/16 in width, so there is left a space of 3/4 in. I cleaned the cosmolene packing grease away, and the bearing is ready for greasing. The question is: regardless of how the greasing is done (by hand, or with a packing tool), should the 3/4 in cylinder within the bearing without rollers be filled with grease also? I can measure the approximate grease volume to be used, but cannot see the grease inside. If the space is filled, would the heat expansion bust the seals? If there is too little grease, would air traps hinder lubrication? Comments and/or suggestions are much appreciated!!! wolf33h |
#2
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Hi Wolf33h
Well that is a very good question. I have been thinking the same thing. How much of that cavity gets filled up?
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May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#3
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Re: Help with bearing packing
Lee's advice is: The space between the races gets greased!
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#4
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Re: Re: Help with bearing packing
Quote:
This disclaimer is being made not because a lawyer advises, but because I would be a bit devastated if my words misled the good people of this forum. Where's the Beav!!!! |
#5
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Lee's disclaimer
OK Lee, disclaimer acknowledged and advice appreciated! If this job is botched up, I'll blame the torque wrench or the grease....Is Beav the author of the How To with the HubTamer, the man with few words and infinite wisdom?
wolf33h |
#6
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I wondered about filling the hub cavity with grease also. I did some reading at some bearing websites, and I came up with the conclusion that there should be enough to coat the interior of the hub and enough around the bearing. Beyond that, its apparently not necessary.
http://www.timken.com/products/bearings/index.asp If you look in the "tech tips" section, you'll see a guide to packing bearings.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#7
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Hi Mychailo:
Thanks for the input! (My PC has been giving me problems). Actually, it is not the hub cavity, where the half shaft goes, but the space between the bearing surfaces that I am concerned with. Luckily, when the bearing unit was out of the knuckle, I was able to observe that it is composed of two inward tapered bearing units (where the twenty odd roller units are in a black plastic retainer) separated by an empty spacer about an inch wide. Perusing among other sites you pointed me to (Timken), NTNAmerica, NSK..., I read that the bearing housing should not be greased more than 1/2 to 2/3 because the grease churning will generate more heat! So, not knowing any better, I would compromise by making sure the bearing areas on both sides be covered, with some extra grease in between, unseen of course. After all, we don't want the rollers to run dry, and not hindered by extra friction either...Sorry to be long winded, but one has to think it outloud. I have just received my order from Kerven (Thanks, Mike), but miss the oil seals...so I order the bearing too! Alas, when retired, one has lots of time, but no more patience! How are you coming with the springs |
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