New Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration - Page 6

svxcess · #76 03-18-2010, 10:20 PM

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My alternator wiring modification has given me no problems at all without a fuse. The 4 gauge power wire is securely fastened and protected by its location from any sort of normal mishap.

However, in case of a severe front end collision, there is the possibility that the integrity of that wire may be compromised. If the power wire became cut or broken, the battery could instantly send between 800-1000A through that wire directly to frame or engine ground, which is bad.

I finally added a 175A Mega-Fuse into the charging wire circuit, close to the battery. If something does short, the fuse will immediately blow, interrupting the battery current and protecting its components. I will start with a 175A fuse and use it for a month. If all goes well, I will drop down to 150A, 125A and maybe as low as 100A.

The connections were power-crimped and insulated with adhesive shrink-wrap

In case of an accident, which caused a fire, the insurance company could not deny the claim as every due safety precaution was researched and taken.

I know this addition makes Trevor very happy. I feel more relieved to know that my electrical system is safer than it was yesterday
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Trevor · #77 03-18-2010, 10:36 PM

Excellent set up to cover a high output alternator and very nicely done.

I am sure you will be able to reduce the fuse rating in order to gain absolute maximum protection. Please report back when your worthwhile experiments in this regard are completed. You have put in a lot of valuable effort into finding the best possible available components.

N.B. Make sure everything goes in the how too section and replaces the very dodgy so called, "alternator upgrade" Stuff.

svxcess · #78 03-18-2010, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trevor

I think so as well. I am sure you will be able to reduce the fuse rating in order to gain absolute maximum protection. Please report back when your worthwhile experiments in this regard are completed.

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According to the time/current characteristics if this fuse, I could go down to 100A easily. If the alternator were to put out its maximum current of 160A, the fuse would handle that "spike" for 10000 seconds before blowing. Going up to 125A would let it handle that same current output for more than 1000 seconds (16 minutes plus) This is the black line at the left

The black line towards the right of the chart show the 1000A range of current the battery is capable of. If the wire were to short to ground, the 100A would blow the quickest (at 6/100 of a second) while the 125A would blow at 1/10 second. The 175A would blow the slowest at 1/3 of a second

According to this chart, I think a 125A would be the most desirable.

The high-output alternator is capable of producing continuous power, without ill effects, at 80% of its 160A rating. That is 128A (more than enough for our electrical demands)

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svxcess · #79 03-18-2010, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trevor

N.B. Make sure everything goes in the how too section and replaces the very dodgy so called, "alternator upgrade" Stuff.

I have the complete documentation and procedure, including many photos and links to materials in a Word Document. Too large to upload to the network.

Maniac Electric Motors (makers of the SVX high-output alternator) have added my previous version, without the fuse, to their website as a model of how to do additional heavy gauge wiring and fusing. They have my latest one and are converting it to a .pdf file for easier loading. Once they put it on their website, I can download it and post post a direct link to it as well. I will send a copy to Earl to put in the How-To documents.

For those who don't want to do the new configuration (single power wire) mod that I did, the document will still address the fuse issue of the original "upgrade", as well as links for better cable and connectors.

The only thing not in there is the replacing of the 2 white wires that run inside the black plastic channel. Just a matter of cutting them back and adding new lengths and connectors to replace the aging, brittle ones. This still keeps the original electrical design and adds the heavier additional wires that a H/O alternator requires.

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Trevor · #80 03-19-2010, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxcess

I think so as well. According to the time/current characteriatics if this fuse, I could go down to 100A easily. If the alternator were to put out its maximum current of 160A, the fuse would handle that "spike" for 10 seconds before blowing. Going up to 125A would let it handle that same current output for 1000 seconds (16 minutes) This is the black line at the left

The two black lines together towards the right of the chart show the 800A-1000A range of current the battery is capable of. If the wire were to short to ground, the 100A would blow the quickest (at less than 1/10 second) while the 125A would blow at less than 2/10 second.

Trevor, if I am reading this chart correctly, a 125A would be the most desirable.

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You are spot on.

You are correctly using a relatively slow blow fuse, so that a 125 amp should be OK. As you have anticipated, the lower the rating the better the protection.

svxcess · #81 03-19-2010, 10:17 AM

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The NEWEST alternator wiring configuration V.4.1, with updated links to components, is available for viewing, download and sharing on Google Drive HERE

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SVXMAN2001 · #82 04-10-2010, 07:25 PM

John, this is an excellent write up and very timely since I will be installing an audio system. Having said that...what gauge are the two wires that are lengthened that run to the alternator plug...

and as for the two wires that ran to the alternator charger post that were spliced together...where did you end up placing/securing these wires?

thanks, chris.

svxcess · #83 04-10-2010, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001

what gauge are the two wires that are lengthened that run to the alternator plug.

I can't really remember. These are very low-current conductors. One is used just to supply enough current to keep the idiot light on the dash off. I just used the same thickness of wire that was originally attached to the plug, around 10-12 gauge, maybe as small as 14 gauge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001

and as for the two wires that ran to the alternator charger post that were spliced together...where did you end up placing/securing these wires?

After removing them from inside the plastic channel, I split apart the tape/insulation that was around the two white wires back as far as I could (maybe 12")

There is a point where these wires connect to a larger bundle of another 3 wires.. I Just trimmed them close to the bundle, stripped, twisted and soldered them together and shrink-wrapped the connection. I then wrapped the entire connection (he two spliced wires and the larger bundle) with electrical fusion tape to make it totally isolated and waterproof.

That connection is made between the engine and battery. You can see the approximate location, identified by the yellow circle in the photo. It is tucked down out of the way.

I may take a clear specific photo of its actual location later today and edit this post.

Just come to Reading and take lots of notes and photos.

Electrically, Here is how the new wiring mod works. Retaining all of the current flow and fuses protection.

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Trevor · #84 04-10-2010, 10:57 PM

Confusion exists regarding the actual way in which the white wires are connected/arranged. Actual does not appear to correspond with the wiring diagram and the set up not logical. It is a matter of tracing the wires back to exact points of connection, at and inside the distribution box. I am unable to assist as my car is JDM.