What have you done to your SVX (or other Subaru) today?

[maxtian]

I bought new shocks for my car. I like the handling and control of bilstein on my civic, but unfortunately there's no available for my svx so I ended up getting the koni's and because they are a good replacement for stock ones.

[Landshark]

Originally Posted by socal1200r

I've heard stories of the infamous "hot air intake", so where's the scientific evidence to support this story? I know, I know, common sense should tell someone that removing the airbox, which has a teeny tiny air inlet from the fender, and replacing it with a filter that's attached on the end of the MAF sensor will draw in much warmer air. Well, there's common sense, and there's scientific evidence. Has anyone actually measured the temp difference at the MAF sensor between the stock airbox setup and any kind of short intake setup while the car is in motion?

most *cold air intakes* don't add any power as it is, especially on normally aspirated engines. Cobb Tuning doesn't even recommend a CAI on a *turbocharged* Evo until after Stage 1 or so - its not necessary. the SVX's factory airbox will likely flow more air than the engine can handle (why would the design engineers make the factory airbox a bottleneck?)

why require scientific evidence when common sense will do? sucking in hot air from next to the hot engine will give less power than from an insulated plastic factory airbox housing.

if its a K&N-style oiled filter, that's another debate - dyno tests show them with no gain, or losing power (depending on the car). they will not filter as well, letting fine particles into the engine, and if over-oiled, can foul your MAF sensor.

pros:
- looks cool when your hood is open
- cool noises
- reuseable filter
cons:
- power loss
- less filtering
- possible MAF fouling

your car, your choice.

[svxash]

I replaced both o2 sensors, one of the knock sensors and the power steering pump o-ring. I was going to replace the other knock sensor but couldn't get to it without removing the intake. I guess that will be another day.

[svxfiles]

A; Landshark!!!!! Good to know that you still exist!

B; svxash, you can doi both knock sensors without removing the intake.

I am asuming that the one that you did not change is on the drivers side?

[theflystyle]

Originally Posted by Landshark

most *cold air intakes* don't add any power as it is, especially on normally aspirated engines. Cobb Tuning doesn't even recommend a CAI on a *turbocharged* Evo until after Stage 1 or so - its not necessary. the SVX's factory airbox will likely flow more air than the engine can handle (why would the design engineers make the factory airbox a bottleneck?)

why require scientific evidence when common sense will do? sucking in hot air from next to the hot engine will give less power than from an insulated plastic factory airbox housing.

if its a K&N-style oiled filter, that's another debate - dyno tests show them with no gain, or losing power (depending on the car). they will not filter as well, letting fine particles into the engine, and if over-oiled, can foul your MAF sensor.

pros:
- looks cool when your hood is open
- cool noises
- reuseable filter
cons:
- power loss
- less filtering
- possible MAF fouling

your car, your choice.

+ Million

socal1200r - Where in Virginia are you? You could try going over to svxfiles if its not too far. If I had more free time I would help. Keep in mind certain shops will quote work for insane amounts if they really don't want to work on the car and hope the customer just goes somewhere else.

[Landshark]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

A; Landshark!!!!! Good to know that you still exist!

i'll browse through here once in a while ...

[Landshark]

Originally Posted by theflystyle

+ Million

unless you're looking for noise and bling, hot air intakes are not a good option.

i put some washable dry (non-oiled) panel filters in my car.

i thought i saw something a while back that the SVX factory airbox could flow enough air for 300+ hp .... ????

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Landshark

unless you're looking for noise and bling, hot air intakes are not a good option.

i put some washable dry (non-oiled) panel filters in my car.

i thought i saw something a while back that the SVX factory airbox could flow enough air for 300+ hp .... ????

I was not going to get in on this thing, but


WE HAVE A 202 CID ENGINE!
With a 900 CFM throttle body.


Sorry, been under a lot of stress.

See you at Joses.

[Lookin4SVX]

Originally Posted by socal1200r

Can you believe their estimate was $3200???!!! WTF, over?!

When someone gives you a ridiculously high estimate, that is them saying they don't want the job.

My local subaru dealer wouldn't even change the accessory belt on my SVX..
They just don't want to touch the car, too afraid something will break and they won't be able to source the replacement parts.

I drove it to trail of the dragon with the steering belt screeching where Huck ended up doing the belt for me in the parking lot in about 10 mins flat at the dragon meet.

[socal1200r]

Flystyle - I'm in Newport News...

Landshark - I've only had one physics class in my life, and that was back in high school. So pulling on this thread a little bit more, I have another question / observation, and it has to do with those CAI setups that are way down in the engine compartment or inner fender.

I get that the air going into the intake is part of the suck - squish - bang - blow operation of a 4-stroke engine like ours. So since our engines do not have forced induction, that means the TB is sucking in air, yes? Now isn't there some kind of law in physics that has to do with pressure and distance, or volume and distance, or some combination of the three? What I'm getting at is if the stock airbox is, say, X feet away from the TB, flowing Y cfm, then you install a CAI setup that now moves the air inlet 2X feet away, doesn't that make the TB work harder to get the same amount of cfm, or the TB works the same but will draw in less cfm, since it's not forced? I'm thinking like sucking air in thru a straw. If you make the straw longer, it takes more effort to draw in the same amount of air, or if you use the same amount of effort, you'll draw in less air. Does any of that make sense?! You can see why I wasn't a STEM major in college!

So what I'm thinking of doing is installing the Uni foam filter I have on order so that the neck is right at the opening in the fender well, with the filter body inside the fender, then running a short pipe with coupler up to the MAF adapter. This should keep the distance the same, but allow cooler air to be drawn into the TB thru a filter that has a much larger surface area than the tiny inlet to the stock airbox. Somewhat logical, or did I pick the wrong week to stop sniffing glue?!

[svxash]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

A; Landshark!!!!! Good to know that you still exist!

B; svxash, you can doi both knock sensors without removing the intake.

I am asuming that the one that you did not change is on the drivers side?

Correct only changed the one on the passenger side. I couldn't get to the driver's side one very well. I could get a wrench on it but was afraid if I was able to get the bolt all the way out I wouldn't be able to get it restarted to install the new one. I also was having a hard time gaining access to the pigtail connector on the driver side sensor. Any tips?
Update:I just went out and removed the center plastic cover on the intake and there's a opening in the intake I can get a socket on an extension through. I'll try it tomorrow.

[Landshark]

Originally Posted by socal1200r

Flystyle - I'm in Newport News...

Landshark - I've only had one physics class in my life, and that was back in high school. So pulling on this thread a little bit more, I have another question / observation, and it has to do with those CAI setups that are way down in the engine compartment or inner fender.

I get that the air going into the intake is part of the suck - squish - bang - blow operation of a 4-stroke engine like ours. So since our engines do not have forced induction, that means the TB is sucking in air, yes? Now isn't there some kind of law in physics that has to do with pressure and distance, or volume and distance, or some combination of the three? What I'm getting at is if the stock airbox is, say, X feet away from the TB, flowing Y cfm, then you install a CAI setup that now moves the air inlet 2X feet away, doesn't that make the TB work harder to get the same amount of cfm, or the TB works the same but will draw in less cfm, since it's not forced? I'm thinking like sucking air in thru a straw. If you make the straw longer, it takes more effort to draw in the same amount of air, or if you use the same amount of effort, you'll draw in less air. Does any of that make sense?! You can see why I wasn't a STEM major in college!

So what I'm thinking of doing is installing the Uni foam filter I have on order so that the neck is right at the opening in the fender well, with the filter body inside the fender, then running a short pipe with coupler up to the MAF adapter. This should keep the distance the same, but allow cooler air to be drawn into the TB thru a filter that has a much larger surface area than the tiny inlet to the stock airbox. Somewhat logical, or did I pick the wrong week to stop sniffing glue?!

i'm too long removed from physics, thermodynamics, and engineering classes, so i ain't going there.

i don't remember - the SVX has the airbox drawing air from the fender well area? it already is a "CAI". many cars have the airboxes drawing air from the high pressure area in front of the radiator.

again, unless you are adding giant turbos, you aren't gaining anything over the factory airbox. you'll get "whooshing" sounds, though.

[svxash]

Replaced the other knock sensor today and installed the factory crank pulley. The lightweight one that was on the car had the whole back lip worn off.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by socal1200r

somewhat logical, or did i pick the wrong week to stop sniffing glue?!

great reference!!!!!:d

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by svxash

I could get a wrench on it but was afraid if I was able to get the bolt all the way out I wouldn't be able to get it restarted to install the new one. I also was having a hard time gaining access to the pigtail connector on the driver side sensor. Any tips?
Update:I just went out and removed the center plastic cover on the intake and there's a opening in the intake I can get a socket on an extension through. I'll try it tomorrow.

I have done the drivers side knock sensor in 45 minutes,,,some times less after doing it in just hours. sigh...
A very long set of hemostats after removing the alternator can be your friend.
Also if you cover the 12mm head of the knock sensor with masking tape, to give the flex socket a better grab onto the knock sensor mounting bolt, it will help. As to the connector, a REALLY small set of hemostats allows you to unlock the locking tab, while you pull the connectors apart.

Note, the long hemostats are to help guide the mounting bolt into position.