reversed jumper cables now it wont start

[rbtlen]

Originally Posted by Trevor

The questions were numbered for easy reference.

What you now state is the most important information you have provided to date. Please now check fuse SFB 4 as requested and advise.

The alternator wiring involves a link in the suspect starting circuit and is very likely to have been burnt out. As advised above, according to the manuals a white coded wire is involved. If burnt out this would break the starter circuit.

Check all alternator wiring and connectors for signs of damage. If nothing is visible, a continuity test is the next step.

Ok here is the latest update

1. the fuse under the hood that blew was the clock fuse which was possibly blown when I had the key on and was checking for power and hit ground and pos at the same time on the cig. lighter

2. the fuse under the dash that was blown was an abs fuse which I have had an abs light on so it could be related to that ... or maybe not.

3. the sfb4 fuse is fine

4. I have power on the main white wire on the alt.

5. I don't have power on the start wire on the starter sol. when the key is turned to the start position. I can take a wire and run it from the pos. term on the battery to the start sol. and get the car to start ( key is in the run position)

6. There is power into the ign. switch and then power out of the switch on the run position and then when trying to start the car there is power coming out of the switch on the black/yellow wire(start pos.)

I am also unsure of where the black/yellow wire coming from the ignition switch runs to.

[Trevor]

Excellent investigative work and advice.

There is some confusion regarding wire colour codes.

The manual I have shows black/yellow as the input to the ignition switch from fuse SBF 4, but this could well be a misprint as the code changes to black/blue at the fuse box.

My manual shows the starter output wire to be black/white and this runs to the inhibitor switch, which prevents the car from being started unless it is in “Park”. From there the circuit continues from the inhibitor switch, to the starter solenoid as a black/yellow wire, therefore adding to the possibility of a misprint.

My guess is that the manual is incorrect, but you should make sure that your testing is accurate in respect of the correct wire providing voltage output, when the start position is selected. If this is indeed black/yellow, it will surely go to the inhibit switch.

The obvious but rather stupid question is, was/is the gear selector in the correct position when you are trying to operate the starter?

What you have now reported is very strange and does not logically relate to the reversed battery episode and makes the suspect item the inhibit switch.

[rbtlen]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Excellent investigative work and advice.

There is some confusion regarding wire colour codes.

The manual I have shows black/yellow as the input to the ignition switch from fuse SBF 4, but this could well be a misprint as the code changes to black/blue at the fuse box.

My manual shows the starter output wire to be black/white and this runs to the inhibitor switch, which prevents the car from being started unless it is in “Park”. From there the circuit continues from the inhibitor switch, to the starter solenoid as a black/yellow wire, therefore adding to the possibility of a misprint.

My guess is that the manual is incorrect, but you should make sure that your testing is accurate in respect of the correct wire providing voltage output, when the start position is selected. If this is indeed black/yellow, it will surely go to the inhibit switch.

The obvious but rather stupid question is, was/is the gear selector in the correct position when you are trying to operate the starter?

What you have now reported is very strange and does not logically relate to the reversed battery episode and makes the suspect item the inhibit switch.

I will double check the colors as it is a little difficult to tell colors sometimes when it has grease on it and its old. I do know that the lockout switch that prevents you from moving the shifter out of part has never worked so I have to use the bypass next to the shifter. I have tried to start the car in neutral but that didn't work eather.

I will check the colors again. if I could trace the wires better I could narrow things down quicker but its tight under the dash. I need to find a schamatic to go by. thanks for all you input. I will update you hopefully on thursday.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by rbtlen

I will double check the colors as it is a little difficult to tell colors sometimes when it has grease on it and its old. I do know that the lockout switch that prevents you from moving the shifter out of part has never worked so I have to use the bypass next to the shifter. I have tried to start the car in neutral but that didn't work eather.

I will check the colors again. if I could trace the wires better I could narrow things down quicker but its tight under the dash. I need to find a schamatic to go by. thanks for all you input. I will update you hopefully on thursday.

Your thanks are sincerely appreciated.

Mind your head under the dash, better you than me.

I would be inclined to first investigate the inhibitor switch and its linkage, on the side of the transmission. This is a likely bet, even though things happened at the same time as the battery episode. As a matter of parallel coincidence, the impossible is often possible in respect of things electrical. Been there many times.

[techy101]

Is there a relay for the starter? I would imagine so, and if there is, it would be worth checking.