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#1
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Optima battery/Relcating to the trunk
With the cold weather it seems my energizer battery just isn't quite cutting it, the remote start has a hard time turning over when its super cold out so im thinking of buying an optima and relocating to the trunk area. I was wondering if anyone was using one of these batteries and also if anyone has tried re-locating one?And if anyone has some instruction on doing so....I.E : materials, tools, exc.
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#2
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I have done it took a few hours. I did not use an optima just used the Wal-Mart equivalent. You are going got need to get some very big gauge wire. Don’t get it form a car shop they will charge you an arm and a leg for it. Get it from a welding shop they will have huge gauge wire for very cheep and it is better quality. Running the cable/wire is what took the most time. What I did was rout it the same path the fuse box does then used the tunnel along the floor on the drivers side. If I remember it correctly the tunnel had the break lines in it. Getting it in to the trunk was easy, I will try to take some pic if you need this weekend.
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#3
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Thanks man, the pictures would help alot.
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#4
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You'll be very happy with the Optima. I've been using nothing but Optimas since 1990.
Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#5
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Pictures are in my locker.
I used just under eighteen feet of four guage wire. Strait from the battery in my trunk, mounted on the RR shelf, behind the trunk "wall board", under the back seat, along the drivers floor, against the wall, past the inside fuse box, over the steering column, but under the gas pedal, and out thru the grommet, to the starter. I tried using a bigger wire, but it weighed a ton and I could not make a tight bend with it. I've had it installed for more than a year(I know before last April) and it gets at least as cold here, as Philly. No problems of any kind, but I should have gone for the more powerful yellow top. Might still do that. Hope this helps, Tom. ps; The 25 foot roll of 4 guage costs about $30.00 at CarQuest.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#6
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Sounds like a good mod!
Good luck, keep us posted on progress, Rob Missoula MT |
#7
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Would it not be simpler to use a battery heater, rather than all this uprooting the carpet etc?
Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#8
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I use two batteries, one in the factory location and a deep-cycle optima in the boot. I ran the cable (forklift battery charging cable) from the driver's front corner of the engine compartment, towards the firewall, laterally across the back of the engine compartment, through the firewall, and along the passenger's side of the car. This was the easiest route I could find.
As for mounting the battery... I used a welder. You're on your own on that one. Having the battery in the trunk is better for weight distribution, but it's really not good for any other reason. If a weak battery is the primary issue, I'd just replace the battery with a newer one. If you want two batteries, that's another story. The only reason I used an optima is because it's a sealed unit. If it wasn't for all the acid sloshing around, I would have used a standard lead battery. |
#9
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Hey guys thanks for all the tips. As for my reasoning for reloacting the battery to the trunk well i think they all have been named. Weight distribution, space, and it makes running anything that requires power and is going to be stored in the trunk much easier, for example an amp.It also looks kinda cool. Thanks for all of the photos and How to's that really helps. I think im gonna build a small enclosure and mount a volts meter gauge right on the front. Ill keep everyone updated with photos and information. Thanks again.
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