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  #16  
Old 12-11-2014, 05:56 AM
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halistan halistan is offline
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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!

Good to know, I'll order one of these instead Thanks for the info!
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'93 LS-L named "Samantha Victoria Xavier"...Sam for short.
All new and improved custom built engine with forged internals, lowered compression, upgraded cams and a stage III supercharger. AMR Engineering struts, Custom exhaust --All 3 Subaru cats removed, and replaced with 2 high flow mustang cats-- Cross-drilled & Slotted rotors, steel braided brake lines, bypassed stock Tranny cooler replaced with aftermarket B&M super-cooler, and a K&N drop in air filter.
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  #17  
Old 12-11-2014, 07:39 AM
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SVX_MY_BABY SVX_MY_BABY is offline
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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!

Halon is a banned product in Canada. Ozone depleter.
http://ec.gc.ca/ozone/default.asp?lang=En&n=D90FFDBB-1
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ART Cryogenic/Slotted Rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, PWR Radiator, Tranny cooler, Stebro, Earthworm's Poly Differential/front & rear swaybar bushings, Koni Inserts and Mychailo SVX Sport Springs all 4 corners, Indigo Blue paint. Liquid Silver Wheels.
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  #18  
Old 12-11-2014, 10:07 AM
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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVX_MY_BABY View Post
Halon is a banned product in Canada. Ozone depleter.
http://ec.gc.ca/ozone/default.asp?lang=En&n=D90FFDBB-1
Halotron-1 is the approved replacement in Canada, as well as the US. It was originally introduced in 1992 to replace severe ozone-depleting Halon 1211.

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1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
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HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


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  #19  
Old 12-25-2014, 07:17 AM
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halistan halistan is offline
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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!

**UPDATE**

I've gotten the car back now and it is running well again. Fortunately, it only cost me a couple hundred to fix. They said that the problem was that the injector wires on the drivers side were exposed slightly and came in contact with the valve cover and shorted out.

They replaced all the wires to the injectors and when I went by it still wouldn't start. They also replaced the Fusible link and so everything would come on, it just wouldn't start.

We all looked at it together for a little while and they decided to start at the beginning and see if it was getting fuel. This was going to take a while so I started to leave. About 5 minutes down the road I got a call and said they fixed it. Apparently they unhooked the fuel pump and saw that it was actually pumping when they turned it on so they reconnected it and it started right up.

Indirect fix? Who knows. They did tell me that the gauge on the fuel pressure regulator didn't work. It was set to 40psi but when they tested it, it actually was set to 70psi. They dialed it back down to 40 but I can definitely feel a loss of power, but I really dont' want to burn out my fuel pump so i'll leave it I guess.

I'm still running the 9psi pulley right now. Once i'm sure everything is nice and stable, I'll replace it with the 12psi one and see how that runs. I've been driving it the last few days and Master Kuo is helping me install a new security system w/remote start right now. I purchased an Excalibur AL-2050-EDPB and its a sweet little security system.

We've taken out the old system and will install the new one probably this coming weekend. I'll do a new post about that if anyone is interested.

Thanks everyone for your help, you guys are the best!!
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'93 LS-L named "Samantha Victoria Xavier"...Sam for short.
All new and improved custom built engine with forged internals, lowered compression, upgraded cams and a stage III supercharger. AMR Engineering struts, Custom exhaust --All 3 Subaru cats removed, and replaced with 2 high flow mustang cats-- Cross-drilled & Slotted rotors, steel braided brake lines, bypassed stock Tranny cooler replaced with aftermarket B&M super-cooler, and a K&N drop in air filter.
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  #20  
Old 12-25-2014, 06:00 PM
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Svx95 Svx95 is offline
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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!

Quote:
Originally Posted by halistan View Post
**UPDATE**
I've gotten the car back now and it is running well again. I've been driving it the last few days and Master Kuo is helping me install a new security system w/remote start right now. I purchased an Excalibur AL-2050-EDPB and its a sweet little security system.

We've taken out the old system and will install the new one probably this coming weekend. I'll do a new post about that if anyone is interested.

Thanks everyone for your help, you guys are the best!!
Glad to hear you got your car back and it is running. I'm interested in the security system w/remote start install. It would be nice if you do a How-To thread with pictures. I know there already is a How-To thread but don't recall if it has pictures.
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  #21  
Old 12-25-2014, 10:12 PM
Tapani Tapani is offline
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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!

Quote:
Originally Posted by halistan View Post
**UPDATE**

They did tell me that the gauge on the fuel pressure regulator didn't work. It was set to 40psi but when they tested it, it actually was set to 70psi. They dialed it back down to 40 but I can definitely feel a loss of power, but I really dont' want to burn out my fuel pump so i'll leave it I guess.
Do you have a wide band AFR gauge? If not, I highly recommend getting one installed ASAP.

Just make sure you are running with the fuel pressure Mike intended... double check - especially if you feel a loss of power. The fuelling maps are done to match a certain fuel pressure at a given load level. Make absolutely sure you are not running lean or you will destroy the force fed engine in no time.

/T
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  #22  
Old 12-26-2014, 07:13 AM
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halistan halistan is offline
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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!

No, I don't have a wide band sensor but I can get one. However, after I get it, how do I tell what it is supposed to be? I was looking through some of the supercharger threads but I can't find anything that talks about what things should be set to. Got any suggestions?

Ray
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'93 LS-L named "Samantha Victoria Xavier"...Sam for short.
All new and improved custom built engine with forged internals, lowered compression, upgraded cams and a stage III supercharger. AMR Engineering struts, Custom exhaust --All 3 Subaru cats removed, and replaced with 2 high flow mustang cats-- Cross-drilled & Slotted rotors, steel braided brake lines, bypassed stock Tranny cooler replaced with aftermarket B&M super-cooler, and a K&N drop in air filter.
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  #23  
Old 12-26-2014, 08:07 AM
Tapani Tapani is offline
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Re: Dag nabbit @#$&*$!

Quote:
Originally Posted by halistan View Post
Got any suggestions?

Ray
Google for example
afr tuning boost
Go and find a basic book on force fed engine tuning.

When cruising you should be at stoichiometric 14.7 and under boost below12to fight detonation .... it all depends on so many things that universal advice does not exist.

I run at only 5 PSI and the stage 2 maps from Mike result in an AFR around 12.2-12.4, which is on the lean side, I think. Especially with the rather agressive timing maps Mike utilizes.

Do not increase the boost level unless you know what AFR you're at and you are aboslutely sure you know how to play the game. And get the wide band working - it's cheap insurance. My sensor is located around 6" down stream from the turbo. I do not know what the best place is with a stock twin exhaust system.

Kind regards,

Tapani
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