Got some things done today... (pictures inside)

[bheinen74]

90 ft lbs tq is too excess. that tight will warp the rotors which will also cause early bearing failure.
oh well

[Nevin]

Originally Posted by Johnybeas

what's the little breather next to the motor hooked up to??

I prefer to vent my valve covers instead of feeding their oil vapors into the intake. What you see there is a small filter.

[Nevin]

Originally Posted by bheinen74

90 ft lbs tq is too excess. that tight will warp the rotors which will also cause early bearing failure.
oh well

I've heard people talk about warped rotors, but I've never seen it in person, and I've not seen it all, but I'm defnitely not new at cars. The way I see it, a stud would break long before a simple nut would have the capacity to bend a piece of metal that's already sandwiched in between to other pieces.

I understand what you're saying, but from what I know (5+ years of working at a tire shop) +4lb. ft is not overkill espescially considering it's a 17" wheel instead of a 16" which means more of a gyroscope effect on the hub assembly, etc...

[Johnybeas]

Originally Posted by Nevin

I prefer to vent my valve covers instead of feeding their oil vapors into the intake. What you see there is a small filter.

interesting..... lol

[Nevin]

Originally Posted by Johnybeas

interesting..... lol

It just keeps oil and grime from building up in your intake. These subarus have an interesting oil separator device in the top of the valve cover anyway, so they're not as bad as some cars which can get pretty sludgy in the intake though. But every little bit helps.

[SuberNatural]

What did you do with the rubber line?

[Nevin]

Originally Posted by SuberNatural

What did you do with the rubber line?

Well, when I made the intake, I only made fittings for the two TB idle control lines, and just decided to leave the rest out for this reason actually. Now both sides just vent, and the intake stays nice and clean.

Also, bheinen74 please don't take my replies the wrong way, I'm not trying to criticize you or what you're saying. On the stock wheels I normally do only go 85 lb./ft. but honestly in all the years I've worked on cars and the thousands of tires that I've changed, I have YET to see a bearing failure or warped rotor happen because of over-tightening a lug nut. I know some have talked about it, but to me it's just a mythical creature that I have yet to see firsthand.

[Mike621]

Nevin,

I torque my lugs to 95 lb/ft.

[Nevin]

Originally Posted by Mike621

Nevin,

I torque my lugs to 95 lb/ft.

Thank you! lol

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Nevin

Thank you! lol

I am with you!
Things have to make sense...

Keith

[bheinen74]

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/28201.pdf
see this last paragraph\then tell me you are not over the torque limit

[kwren]

Originally Posted by bheinen74

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/28201.pdf
see this last paragraph\then tell me you are not over the torque limit

Can anyone give any logic to this being relevant to wheel bearing failure? Of course, I would always go for installing the lug nuts by hand and turning them all the way up with my fingers. Torquing them and then after a few miles re-checking them.

I would love to learn exactly how the bearings could be affected in their location by the lug nuts in their location.
Keith

[bheinen74]

because, simple. overtightened lug nuts, will warp the rotor, and the hub housing will get more stress, which will make bearings fail.
same reason the heads get torqued to spec and not more. i dunno, i am not willing to argue on facts