My engine burns a lot of oil...

[svx_commuter]

Originally posted by gl1674

Yes I have. My engine has a small coolant leakage - I tried to fix it by replacing head gaskets. New gaskets did not have any noticeable effect unfortunately.

Your a brave person. I have a lot of questions if you have the time.

Did you do both sides? Which one is harder?
How close do the head bolts come to the hitting the body?
How did you get the gasket material off the block and not get any in it?
Did any of the lifters fall out when the cam shaft came out?
Are you able to following the un-torque-ing and torque procedure for the head bolts? Is there enough room to get the 90deg rotation?
How long did this take you? Any pictures?
Did you take out the PS and AC lines?

[gl1674]

Let me answer in from the end:

No I did not take out my AC. R12 is expensive. I only unbolted compressor and moved it to a side a bit, I did not disconnect lines and I did not lose the charge.

I may have taken out the PS pump - I don't remember. It is only 4 bolts anyway. I think you can leave PS lines attached and only remove the bracket from under the pump (still remove the 4 bolts holding the pump).

The whole job started on Sunday afternoon (I was bored) and ended on Friday night. So it was aboutt 8 hours on Sunday and 2-3 hours each day - total of 20-30 hours.

The bolt torque procedure was not a problem. I had a 3/8 clicker wrench with a ratchet, there is plenty of space for 90 degree turns (at least 2x45 is always possible).

Most lifters remained in their seats and needed a magnetic pickup to remove them. The seats are completely horizontal and the lifters are thick enough to stay there. At least did not have any problems identifying where each lifter came from.

Gasket material needed scraping, but with the head removed there is a fair bit of space to work in. I did not use any gasket removal solvent - I would try it if I had to do it again. I flushed cooling system and replaced the oil after I assembled it back.

Head bolts do not come close to the body, I think I used a regular socket and a sidewinder. I may have turned the last few turns by hand, but as far as I remember I did not have problems with the clearance.

I did do both sides, left (drivers) side felt a bit more challenging.
The most difficult part is to remove/install rear lower rocker cover bolts. Get yourself a couple ratcheting wrenches, both 10mm, one straight, the other slightly bent - this may speed your progress a bit. Remove the battery on the left side, remove air intake box and its mounting base on the right side - you will need this space.

Sorry no pictures, it was 3.5 years ago - I did not have a digital camera back then.

The most challenging bits were with the pulleys - the drive belt pulley required a breaker bar and a screwdriver jammed in the flexplate. With camshaft pulley bolts I did not cheat and used the real tool (probably the most expensive piece of iron in my collection).

[svx_commuter]

Well Thank you very much for that information. I would like to say, if I have not done so already, welcome to the SVX network. It is very nice to have you here. This is very valuable information and experience you have. There seem to be more lekaing head gaskets lately.

I had a problem with my engine last year and I decided to get a used one. I put it in myself. So I am familar with what you have done. I also moved the ac compressor to the side.

I think, from reading your post, that you are a very patient person. Are you also a mechanic?

Lot of useful information indeed! just another question popped into my mind while reading the post about head gasket change. assume it's the piston rings and assume I still want to have that fixed instead of dumping the car... the engine must be taken out to do the job, right?

and a bonus question: how did you know what is the torque value for bolts and stuff? from that service manual I've seen referred to so many times on this forum?

my problem is that I tried www.subaruparts.com but they only ship to the US and Canada... too bad

[svx_commuter]

Yes the engine has to come out to take the block apart. The wrist pins come out of plugged holes at the ends of the block. A special tool is needed to reach the center piston and pull the pin out.

Have you thought about an engine flush? Then using Marvel Mystery Oil and running really low engine speeds? Maybe the rings are stuck? May be worth a try since the engine isn't blown oil.

[svx_commuter]

The Factory Service Manual FSM is the item. I'm sure where to buy one.

special tool... oh my! is it something you can fabricate? a photo exist somewhere on the SVX forum maybe?

I guess I'm gonna give the engine flush a try... I have a bottle from STP. maybe it makes a miracle (don't believe in miracles tho)

Originally posted by svx_commuter
The Factory Service Manual FSM is the item. I'm sure where to buy one.

Alrighty... can you share?


Cheers, mate.