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#1
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hub tamer & rear wheel bearings info
First, to Beav: Hub tamer worked well with one possible exception. I couldn't figure out a way to press the hub back into the knuckle without pressure on the bearings againt the races - pushing into the front and holding the rear with the back side of the tamer adapter. Did I do it wrong?
Looks like the job went very well - put about 50 miles on and nothing fell off - definition of a good job for me. With the tool price down to $269 and free shipping it looks like it's almost worth it just for home use. One BIG info item: The NCA/National part number shown at multiple local parts house AND online at carparts.com is NOT the correct seals. I was able to get them at a NAPA store. Just be aware that Federal-Mogul/National seals #4899 and (forgot the number it's like 225573) will NOT work. |
#2
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The correct set up is to have a cup that closely fits the hub center (the raised portion that centers the wheel), in order to keep the pressing bolt as close to centered as posssible. Place an adaptor that only contacts the center/inner race on the opposite side. #31888 I think is the adaptor number, and you should have it's raised portion away from the bearing. That way the only pressure to the bearing is carried by the inner races alone, not by the outer races or rollers. This way it's almost impossible to damage the bearing. If you're missing the instruction book I can scan and e-mail mine.
After re-reading your question I'm getting the idea that you used the large 'c' clamp looking piece to re-install the hub? If so you did do it wrong , but hey! as long as it works, it's o.k.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#3
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Where is this tool available, and can the adapter be purchased at the same place? Thanks in advance.
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#4
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http://www.mile-x.com/otchubtamer.html currently $259.95 The adaptor I was referring to is part of the tool kit.
Considerations: This is not a tool anyone would want to use by hand. A good air compressor and a stout ˝" impact wrench should be available (that means no tools from Costco, WalMart, etc.) If you want to use it while the knuckle is still mounted on the car a hoist is preferred to sitting on the ground with your feet sticking under the car. O.K., I'm spoiled, but I'm being realistic also. Best bet for the average Joe/Joan that wants to save some $$ - R&R the hub and knuckle at home and take it to a local automotive machine shop for pressing. I wouldn't recommend taking it to a regular garage as most are too cheap to buy proper equipment for this job. Most machine shops have the tools and experience to do the job correctly. KEYWORD = 'Most' Cost should equal the bearing and about $20 labor, plus the normal bruises, blood, beer and dirty blue jeans. Broken ABS sensors additional.
__________________
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#5
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I work at a Technical College where I can have the shop use a press to remove or press on hubs, bearings, etc. Would this be a better solution than getting one of these tool even if I have the compressor and impact wrentch available? Just want to make sure this would be worth it.
Thanks
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#6
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thanks Beav,
I did do what you describe, I just didn't describe it as well/clearly as you. No I didn't use the large "C".
By the way, I didn't use an impact gun. Just a large breaker (with 1" socket) on one end of the long bolt/nut/washers/adapter/cup combo, an industrial sized 1-1/8" wrench on the other, and it came apart - and went back together like that. It took some time, but I liked it better because I could "feel" in my hands no "forced" parts. Beav, I'm sure, you have much better touch from tool familiarity with an impact. One caveat though for other readers since I suggested this might be an at-home tool....car was on a hoist at perfect working height, and these were large Snap-On tools. On the ground at home with the wimpy craftsman tools (that I have) I would have ended up calling a tow truck. I was assuming that anybody thinking of buying a $260 tool for home would have the other necessities too. Note to self - Gotta learn from Beav about "considered" questions & answers, instead of usual mode - going on auto-pilot at the keyboard, (brain's response to me - seems doubtful, but ya never know) |
#7
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Hey lee,
Any chance I can borrow your Hub Tamer? I'll pay shipping to and from your place, and if I trash it, I'll buy you a new one.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#8
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Quote:
It does make the job easier by way of not having to completely remove the knuckle from the car. Plus job-specific tools usually produce better results.
__________________
ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#9
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mbtoloczko
Would if it was mine.
I work on an Air Force base and they have an auto hobby shop where you rent stall space for $4 per hour (max charge 8 hrs/day) and all the tools are free - except the paint booth, that's $50 for 24 hours. Only down side is no welding (safety issues), and no automatic transmission overhaul support. |
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