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#1
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maybe a stupid question, but...
Isn't the right quarter panel behind the driver's door, the whole piece from door to fender, removable? The wrecker has one in good shape (he says) and right color but says "SVX's are welded together and so they can't remove it"? Body shop says its over $1000 to fix my parking lot ding, and so I'm just looking at alternatives and how much it would cost...less to just take off dented panel and replace with good one? I have no clue about body work and costs...
I'm heading to the wreckers today for another part, and want to have my facts before I go. Excuse my stupidity on this, but as the Chinese Proverb goes- "He who asks is a fool for 5 minutes, but he who does not ask remains a fool forever."
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Cyn 92 Ebony Pearl LS-L 199,000K New Tranny (my DD) 89 Chevy Sprint (for when my baby's in the shop) 05 Mazda 3 (Hubby's DD) "You win some, you lose some, you wreak some." Dale Earnhardt |
#3
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Rear quarter panels are part of the unibody, IIRC.
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Chris SVX World Network Administrator -1993 Subaru SVX LS-L, Barcelona Red, #46, 160,000+ Miles (Sold to SomethingElse) -2011 Toyota Sienna SE, Black, 30,000+ Miles (Swagger Wagon ) -2002 BMW R 1150R ABS, Black, 26,000+ Miles (Daily Driver ) SVX Owner from February 1997 to March 2008 SVX Online Community Member since February 1998 SVX World Network Member since February 2002, Member #520 Life is a game. Play to win. The world belongs to those who can laugh at it. |
#4
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found this picture of what is (besides the front fenders) essentially the unibody...
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1992 Pearl White/Black Onyx Subaru Alcyone SVX LS-L Donating Forum Member In Good Standing JDM 4.11 Geared Transmission JDM 'ALCYONE' Rear Panel JDM 'BOXER' Eingngine Cover JDM 'SVX' Hood Badge L-Edition Suede Rear Seats |
#5
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Quote:
Unfortunately what the breaker yard is telling you is true; this is a very big panel and it's welded in place. It stretches up to the roofline, and to remove it, they need to remove the side glass and the rear windscreen, and your bodywork guy has to do the same for yours, with the chance of breaking four or five glass panels in total to get the job done. See picture here, part number 11-12 : Another approach that would simplify the job, depending the damage level on your car, would be to cut out the offending damaged part on your car and weld in a good portion from the breaker. This involves cutting out the creased metal from your car, cutting out a corresponding good part from the breaker car, and replacing the bad section with good metal. Bodywork people over here refer to it as "letting in good metal", it is used in classic restoration to replace rusted areas. Ask your bodywork guy/person if this option would help, it could save time and be cheaper. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#6
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Seems no way around it
I've got the same parking lot ding in my left rear quarter, just above the bumper panel. I also got an estimate from a good body shop of $1000 to fix it. That includes refinishing the whole panel, from door to where it meets the rear deck. And then, since I've got a pearlie, it probably wouldn't match. It's brush touch up for me until I can afford to have the whole car painted.
Paul
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The great white fleet: '91 Alfa Romeo 164L 5-speed '92 Subaru SVX LSL '93 Mercury (Aussie) Capri |
#7
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have the same issue here, dinged in a really awkward place, so it would take ALOT to fix. been waiting on someone with a spare car to cut out the section so I could either weld&grind it in or cut a hole and weld the section inside then cover with bondo...
just the route I'm planning, not sure how a body shop would feel about doing that though...
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-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#8
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Cynic, show us a picture of your actual quarter panel.
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#9
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Thanks for all the info. I'll take a look at the one at the wrecker to make sure its okay, then check with body shop.
Here's a pic...doesn't show the scraps, and paint damage well... [IMG][/IMG]
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Cyn 92 Ebony Pearl LS-L 199,000K New Tranny (my DD) 89 Chevy Sprint (for when my baby's in the shop) 05 Mazda 3 (Hubby's DD) "You win some, you lose some, you wreak some." Dale Earnhardt |
#10
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BTW, and I may be wrong about this... but, that is the left side (USDM driver side) quarter panel
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-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#11
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A- 99% of all rear quarter panels are weld-ins.
B- 1,000 for a rear quater replacment is a hell of a deal. 1,000 for a quarter panel repair probably isnt C- due to the nature of your damage, it's safe to say you can push it out from behind and smooth the remaining damage with a thin layer of body filler. note: THIN layer...you never want more than a 1/4 inch of filler anywhere...that's just excessive D- when repianting , remember to take the drivers door, rear window trim thing, and trunklid for blend panels, so even if the paint isn't an abolutely perfect match (Though it still needs to be very, very, very close) it can't be easilly detected
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R.I.P Cool Signature. You're gone but not forgotten. I mean, sure, I kindof don't remember some of the finer details..but I remember you were funny, and at one point you said spaghetti in Dutch....but definantly not forgotten |
#12
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Sorry, it is the left! I've always had a problem with left and right...friends who've known me a long time now turn right if I say turn left!! I also switch out numbers...$92 becomes $29 to me...shocking when the shoes you thought were a great deal turn out not to be at the sales desk.
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Cyn 92 Ebony Pearl LS-L 199,000K New Tranny (my DD) 89 Chevy Sprint (for when my baby's in the shop) 05 Mazda 3 (Hubby's DD) "You win some, you lose some, you wreak some." Dale Earnhardt |
#13
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Option C from Just Eric is your best (cheapest) choice.
A good panel beater should be able to fix that with no problems.
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Prime Сasual Dating |
#14
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Yes, Option C is correct here.
And we knew it was the left panel. You DID say it was behind the driver. Joe PS Cyn, I don't know American/Canadian prices, but $1000 seems excessive to me.
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#15
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A stateside buck is a lil' over 96 cents CAN. Ain't like it was 10 years ago!
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Disclaimer: The above post is on the internet. |
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