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  #1  
Old 03-19-2006, 11:41 AM
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spinn360 spinn360 is offline
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Problem #1billion

So I still have yet another prob or 2. Besides the fact that my CE light came on and I got the right knock sensor code and left o2 sensor code. The car still drives fine and I cleared and now its not doing it (for now anyways). The AWD isnt functioning correctly. Most of the time the car acts like the FWD fuse is in (which its not). If its snowy out the car sucks, spins front end, and is just overall terrible not to mention scarry to drive. Sometimes when I am driving on different occasions, the rear end feels like there is power getting to it. Usually when I am taking off from a stop while turning. Once when it snowed the rear end would kick in but late the front would slip for about 2 seconds before the rear end would finally kick in (rather hard too).


Now I know most people might be thinking the transfer clutch, but I dont think so. I am thinking the duty solenoid C is stuck in the FWD position, only jarring loose somtimes, or the TCU is really messed up and is not controlling the AWD correctly. I have tried the test of putting the car in D with key on engine off and listen for the solenoid while pressing on throttle, I hear nothing. I know that if the solenoid fails its supposed to be 50/50 split, and not the 95/5 or whatever fwd mode is. But if it was like that then I would feel it binding always instead of sometimes. If the transfer clutch was bad I would feel it never. Yet the solenoid must work sometimes because the binding happens occaisionally which means the transfer clutch still works. So I am putting a switch in to turn off power to solenoid C, incase the TCU is messed up this should allow me to turn on the 4WD when its snowy/icy out. But if that doesnt work then I guess I will have to replace the solenoid C or at least clean it.
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  #2  
Old 03-19-2006, 01:25 PM
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Manarius Manarius is offline
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Sounds like Solenoid C problems to me. Slow AWD response is typical Solenoid C.
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(8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95
Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod,
svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar,
silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2006, 02:34 PM
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I was under the impression it is more likely for the solenoid to fail closed in which case rear biased torque would be lost.
This is what mine did.
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2006, 02:55 PM
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Solenoid C Wire?

As far as I know when solenoid c fails the fail is supposed to fail to make a 50/50 split rather then a more FWD split because of safety purposes. I could be incorrect. Anyways I got some info off from this sight that say's the wire from the TCU for solenoid C is located on upper plug when looking at TCU and it is the green wire with red line on it. I just looked and there are in fact two green wires with red lines on that plug. Does anyone know which wire infact does control solenoid C from the TCU??
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2006, 03:00 PM
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My case might be special because I did stupid things like burnouts with the FWD fuse in, so it failed as I destroyed it.

But it's possible your could have failed open (100% load?) and blew your center or rear dif (or likely a few teeth) which would explain the random rear power surges, maybe?

---
I can't remember whether 100% load is open or closed.
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2006, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn360
As far as I know when solenoid c fails the fail is supposed to fail to make a 50/50 split rather then a more FWD split because of safety purposes. I could be incorrect. Anyways I got some info off from this sight that say's the wire from the TCU for solenoid C is located on upper plug when looking at TCU and it is the green wire with red line on it. I just looked and there are in fact two green wires with red lines on that plug. Does anyone know which wire infact does control solenoid C from the TCU??
When the solenoid fails, it fails in the closed position, making the car 100% FWD. Making it 50/50 would require the TCU to make it open all the time, which isn't the case.
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(8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95
Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod,
svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar,
silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear
(1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver
(12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k)
I have a bad feeling about this.
-Obi Wan Kenobi
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2006, 03:28 PM
alltrac alltrac is offline
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one 22690AA180 Oxygen Sensor
one 22060AA031 Knock Sensor

$130 shipped brand new in the box genuine OEM Subaru parts.
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  #8  
Old 03-19-2006, 03:31 PM
dwd1985 dwd1985 is offline
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Much cheaper and just as good to get Bosch brand knock and O2 sensors from Autozone.
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  #9  
Old 03-19-2006, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manarius
When the solenoid fails, it fails in the closed position, making the car 100% FWD. Making it 50/50 would require the TCU to make it open all the time, which isn't the case.
This is WRONG! SORRY

So does anyone have a FSM that would show the wire location? Or am I just going to have to experiment?
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  #10  
Old 03-19-2006, 03:41 PM
alltrac alltrac is offline
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Stock oem knock sensor is made by Unisia Jecs made in Japan. You can never go wrong with OEM. I have been working at a dealer for almost fours years and I have seen customers pay twice. Once for the aftermarket crap and again when they wan't it to run right. The price I offered is more then fair and cheaper then subaruparts by $20 and I'm not charging 10% S&H.
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  #11  
Old 03-19-2006, 03:58 PM
dwd1985 dwd1985 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alltrac
Stock oem knock sensor is made by Unisia Jecs made in Japan. You can never go wrong with OEM. I have been working at a dealer for almost fours years and I have seen customers pay twice. Once for the aftermarket crap and again when they wan't it to run right. The price I offered is more then fair and cheaper then subaruparts by $20 and I'm not charging 10% S&H.
I bought Bosch knock and O2 sensors. I havent had a problem since they were installed 7 months ago. Also, they were only about $40 a piece. Since he only needs 2 of the 4 sensors (2 O2 and 2 knock), $80 is still better then $130. This is all just IMO. Some people never stray away from OEM equipment (and rightly so) but in this case, I feel the aftermarket ones work just as well.
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  #12  
Old 03-19-2006, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn360
This is WRONG! SORRY

So does anyone have a FSM that would show the wire location? Or am I just going to have to experiment?
When a rear torque bias signal is sent to Sol C an electrical load is place on a servo that opens a valve.

At 100% load the valve is fully opened, and fluid is allowed into the rear of the transfer case to drive the driveline which actuates the rear diff and wheels.

A failure of Sol C would essentially be a loss of electrical load or signal, hence a loss of it's ability to remain open, thus cutting of the supply of hydraulic fluid from the rear transfer, in effect converting the drivetrain to FWD.

In somewhat random, maybe rare situations the valve or motors controlling the Sol C valve may become sticky, or seize altogether. In this situation a small amount of fluid may be allowed to pass and spontaneously actuate the rear wheels.

*snipoldtext, enter new*

I don't think adding a switch anywhere is going to help you.
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3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway.
2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute.

Last edited by NikFu S.; 03-19-2006 at 04:48 PM.
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  #13  
Old 03-19-2006, 04:41 PM
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b3lha b3lha is offline
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Duty Solenoid C is pin c3 of the TCU (Green/Red wire). IIRC, the TCU controls the torque split by pulsing the solenoid on and off very rapidly.

My transmission is different to yours, but I have driven it with the diff lock fuse inserted and believe me when I say that you don't want your transmission locked up in this way unless you are driving on a very slippery surface. It will bind up on the slightest of bends and put tremendous strain on the differentials.

Would you rather get stuck because the road is slippy or because your transmission bound up and the differentials broke?
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Last edited by b3lha; 03-19-2006 at 04:50 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-19-2006, 04:47 PM
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Eh that was pretty good how I had just explained how I destroyed my something or other with the FWD fuse than a few minutes later advocate using it.

I wish I went to sleep last night...
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'92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m
3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway.
2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute.
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  #15  
Old 03-19-2006, 05:46 PM
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spinn360 spinn360 is offline
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The solenoid when powered pushes solenoid to close the flow (less fluid to transfer clutch)making it more FWD. Like when you put in the FWD fuse it puts power 100% to solenoid making solenoid push out to close valve/reduce fluid to transfer clutch. Subaru made it this way so if you were say driving in the middle of winter, on ice, when the solenoid failed then you would still have 4WD instead of 2WD so you could make it safely to a Dealer to have fixed rather then Die in a car ACCIDENT.
SO A SWITCH MAY JUST HELP IF THE TCU IS SCREWED!!!

On TCU B68 connector, pin 3, there is no wire, according to LEE's PDF file on the tranny that is the wire for solenoid C but there was never a wire there so either I read it wrong or the pdf file is possibly for SVX after 96 or at least not for the 92 that I have.
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1989 Subaru XT6 130k
1992 Subaru SVX 120k

1993 Ford Probe 30mpg 213k
1989 Subaru XT6 150k
All good and running

Last edited by spinn360; 03-19-2006 at 07:21 PM.
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