Broken flex plate- need help/information

[svxistentialist]

My second car is making a terrible racket. Sounds like a main bearing, but I am convinced it is the flex plate, either cracked or a loose bolt.

Hope someone can help me with a couple of questions. I know somebody at the 10th Anniv meet had a cracked plate, so I would like to know what is involved in fixing it. Anybody who has done it who can give me info on time, difficulty, cost? Any help appreciated.

Also, my other question; The plate is not listed in the transmission section on Subaruparts.com. There is a drive plate listed. It is under Engine_Flywheel__, and comes in two parts with 8 bolts. Amazingly, the plate is listed at $29 and the reinforced centre at $17 Can anyone of you tech-heads confirm that this is the plate, the "flexplate" of which we speak?

Ta,

Joe

Joe-

To replace the flexplate (or drive plate as subaru calls it), you must remove the transmission. At this point it's a very easy and simple 8 bolt job.

Mike

[wawazat??]

your choice!

Actually you need to separate the two by enough distance to get a wrench to the eight bolts and remove/reinstall them. It could be difficult to insert the new bolts in this tight spot.

Having removed both the engine and the trans in the SVX, I'd recommend removing the engine to enact the fix my friend.

The part description and price sounds correct to me. Do you have part numbers that I can verify with my parts book?

Regards,
Todd

I just finished replacing my flexplate. I removed the tranny to spare the A/C charge. This is not an easy job. As it turned out the flexplate, "driveplate" was not damaged whereas it was making the tunk. tunk. tunk noise. If you attempt this make sure car is up off the ground "all four wheels free" you can't have enough room. The tight spots are getting the starter out, unplugging all the harnesses, and..... getting the tranny over the power assist steering ram mounting tabs. Also the engine will flop around some so support it somehow. The driveline "propellar shaft," flange to rear diff mount uses four bolts with 12mm heads. The lock washers will drag destroying the bolts, I had to use burr grinder to get the studs out. Have a plastic bag and wire ties for tailstock spilling. There are a few other things but if you get past all I have mentioned you'll figure out the rest. All my parts including flexplate came to 62 bucks, the labor was free. While not hard to work on, many of the proceedures were hard to get to. The tunk,tunk,tunk? Who the **($% knows, now i'm leaning towards torque convert. or a lousy tranny oil pump, I hate the thought of a main or rod brg. Total time for remove, replace 10 hrs, and i'm slow. good luck!

[want-a-fast-svx]

Just another little tidbit of advice...If you decide to go the tranny route, (which i would personally, just cause i seem to think the tranny was easier then the engine removal) make sure you have someone else to help you and a good tranny jack. Yes you can do it by yourself with no tranny jack (like i did However that tranny is ABSURDLY heavy. I managed to get it down on a floor jack with a small pallet on top with a cross board to stabalize it. Extremely sketchy indeed. Double check all your wires before the final drop because once that thing comes down if wires are attached they won't be for long. The advice about having it up in the air couldn't be more right. You want that bad boy as high as you can get without putting you at risk. I went half way up my jack stands, but they are rated for a 4x4. Either way good luck and ask any questions you have, as there are more and more people here who seem to be working on their own vehicles and have plenty of advice. Good luck and be patient.

That advice is probably the very best, get a goooood tranny jack. The cheapo i bought at harbour freight is best suited for a Yugo or Metro, the SVX tranny laughed at it!!

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally posted by Peach
That advice is probably the very best, get a goooood tranny jack.

I used an ATV / motorcycle jack I boguht at Sam's Club. It folds totally flat, so it fits under the car with the tranny on it nicely. Photos in my locker.

Sorry to hear about the problem, Joe. It's a crappy one - an inexpensive failure in an expensive spot.

[Chiketkd]

Here is a link to the flex plate at Subaruparts.com: Flex plate

Scary to think that almost 230 ft-lbs of torque is sent through the little thing...

-Chike

[svxistentialist]

Thanks for all the help and info guys. I am amazed the part is so cheap [thanks Chike, that is the correct link I was looking at for the parts].

I have decided to drop the gearbox, but I can see the difficulty in making enough room to work. Also I would be letting my tranny guy Pat do it for me. He has the ramp and the tools and the experience. He is now the official Subaru auto tranny guy in Ireland. It was all the experience he gained fixing my SVX box three times He also thinks I am a little nuts buying another SVX, although he reckons they are a beautiful car to drive.

As I have a twin-turbo Legacy on order from Japan also, he thinks that it is a better buy, being later model it should have the newer 4EAT. They give less trouble, not no trouble, but less trouble, than our type. I think the significant difference, the newer type does not have the brake band system. All the ratios are connected to drive via clutches.

Will see now about getting the plate locally, or shipping from the States. Looking forward to a drive soon in Black Betty.

Joe

[svxistentialist]

Originally posted by wawazat??
your choice!

Actually you need to separate the two by enough distance to get a wrench to the eight bolts and remove/reinstall them. It could be difficult to insert the new bolts in this tight spot.

Having removed both the engine and the trans in the SVX, I'd recommend removing the engine to enact the fix my friend.

The part description and price sounds correct to me. Do you have part numbers that I can verify with my parts book?

Regards,
Todd

Thanks Todd.

The numbers I got from SubaruParts are :

12332AA052 for the plate, and

12333AA010 for the Reinforced drive flange.

Plate cost $28.68
Reinforced flange cost $17.37.

Very reasonable, I would think.

Joe

Don't really know why but my annoying tunk tunk is virtually gone. I thought since my old flex plate still looked good but had elongated holes, the new one would'nt change a thing. I did add a new ring seal to the pump shaft tho. To my surprise the car actually sounded normal "for 146k," I immediately thought " there must be a SVX god!" Maybe disassembly/reass did something. Anyway I'm here to state that a flexplate don't have to be cracked to be replaced. This car is gonna be fun now.

[svxistentialist]

That is good news Peach

It would have been able to move with elongated holes all right, so noise was inevitable.

It surely does seem like this plate was originally specified a bit light for all the torque it is expected to transmit. Either Fuji goofed as with the gearbox, or the plate manufacturers did not make the metal up to the correct specification requested.

Joe

You know now.... it's your turn. From one Irishman "Kirks, Allens,and Warrens," to another Irishman I wish you great luck! That must be kinda nice cruisin the emerald isle.....Let me know if your repairs are good and I'll have a Guiness.

[svxistentialist]

That's a deal.

Better still, any time you come over to visit the relatives, we can have a couple together.

Looking into what price the drive plates are locally this coming week. Keep you posted.

Joe

[poweredx2]

Please stop driving the car,you may be tearing the teeth off of your starter like I did.