Autoseatbelts Fixed!

[SVX JAZZ]

Kuoh! Hows it been going! My wife and I have a 14month old son now so I don't get to post as often. Yes, I never put down the rear windows and a cheap fast fix was to plug the switch in to the seat belt motor. I liked it and have kept it this way for the past year. Hope all is well.

P.S. The hard start problem went away after I replaced all my injectors. Couldn't remember if I mentioned this or not. Take care.

[kuoh]

Congrats on being a daddy, looks like you'll need to update your sig, unless you were talking about a 14 month old pet.

Luckily, I don't have any serious problems with the seatbelts, other than the driver's lap belt not turning off the dash indicator when buckled. My 92 is still hard to start without using the gas pedal, but at least it cranks every time now with the new ignition switch. Maybe I'll think about the injectors after I get all the struts replaced.

KuoH

[bboileau]

First off I would like to thank everyone in this thread for all the useful information.

I found cheap way to fix the ECU without replacing anything.
Got to thinking about the relays and I personally have never seen one have and intermittant failure, they either work or they don't and mine was still working some of the time. However I have seen lots of cold solder joints. Ripped apart the ECU, resoldered all the relay and and connection pins and VOILA!!! Success...worked like a charm.

Hope this helps.
And thanx again.

[Earthworm]

Welcome to the site!

So you're saying the relays are ok and it's just a loose connection fixed by soldering?

[bboileau]

That's what I found anyway, there are only 4 relays in there....I'm assuming two for motor forward and two for motor reverse....wouldn't have anything to do with power source with the accessory on or off. So if the relays are working with accessory on that would mean they are okay.

Over use you can get a crack in a solder joint or a lifted pad due to thermal migration, resoldering the connections or looking for a lifted pad and jumpering it fixes the problem...well it did for me anyway.

[ensteele]

Welcome to the site.

Easy question: How do i access the ecu? How do i get the panel off without ruining anything? There appears to be 4 little "things" that hold it in, but they don't come out easy and i don't want to break anything.

Thanks for your help.

Nobody has answered yet huh? Well I will tell you what I did......not sure it was the correct way.

I removed one "clip" using a prying method with both a flat head screwdriver, putty knife, and needle nose pliers. Once I got one out I just grabbed the entire panel with my hands and pulled down. It popped right out. It did after looking at the other side of the panel put small cracks in the panel. The carpet covers it up so you cant see it. It re-installed perfectly, snapped really tight, you'd never know.

I have since sold my SVX and dont visit here often but if nobody else is helping you...(I know the feeling) please PM me and I will try and help.

[kbarrett]

Another re-solder success.

Pulled down panel in top of the trunk, removed seatbelt relay box ( large box on left side ), disassembled it, and re-soldered relay pins in back, as well as the connector pins.

It looks like someone used as little solder as possible ... added just a little, and used enough heat to get a proper joint.

Seat-belt retractor motor works fine now, without having to bugger up the rear-window controllers.

[SVX JAZZ]

Originally Posted by kbarrett

Another re-solder success.

Pulled down panel in top of the trunk, removed seatbelt relay box ( large box on left side ), disassembled it, and re-soldered relay pins in back, as well as the connector pins.

It looks like someone used as little solder as possible ... added just a little, and used enough heat to get a proper joint.

Seat-belt retractor motor works fine now, without having to bugger up the rear-window controllers.

Too much trouble - much easier to plug in the rear window switch. Honestly, glad you got it to work. I may try that later.

[Minjin]

I opened up mine and the solder joints for the connectors and relays look fine. I'll reflow them just to be sure. But assuming that they aren't the problem, I looked over the board. The only thing that jumped out at me was maybe some bad caps. A few of them look like they might have leaked. Can anyone identify these markings?







Sorry for the lousy pics.

edit: I know that they are aluminum electrolytic surface mounts. 16v. I'm just not sure of the capacitance. 10 uF? 16 uF?

[techy101]

YAY. I tried the re-soldering, and it seems to have worked like a charm. So +1 for this fix. IMHO it should be a sticky.

[CDG]

I think this should be a sticky somewhere, it took me most of the afternoon to find this particular part of the thread.
I plan to do the same with my bot shortly, and will try to post a pic of the relays, as the pic above is not the relays, but Caps.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by 96svxer

That was my first thought, somebody told me of two relays located below the rear window that control the seatbelts, I found none. Unless these relays are located in a remote location there are none, but why would you need a relay on 12VDC? You probably dont. Limit switches dont require any current. And the motor is driven off it's own wire bundle, not sure if it requires a relay, doubt it though.

These cars are loaded with relays!

[pavanbabut]

Originally Posted by kwren

These cars are loaded with relays!

Huh!... talk abt relays.... my Alfas are fully loaded with relays.... you touch something in it, it is connected to loads of relays before it actually starts working , svx is far better in this area (min use of relays comparitively).

-Pavan.