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  #31  
Old 04-20-2006, 07:00 AM
Marcus Marcus is offline
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SKF Bearings?

Hi Guys,

as the OEM parts seem to have some issues, I wonder wether anyone has used SKF Bearings instead.
Do they fit, is it necessary to relubricate them, do they last?

Regards

Marcus
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  #32  
Old 04-20-2006, 08:08 AM
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mohrds mohrds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus
Hi Guys,

as the OEM parts seem to have some issues, I wonder wether anyone has used SKF Bearings instead.
Do they fit, is it necessary to relubricate them, do they last?

Regards

Marcus
Even the OEM bearings can last if cleaned and regreased on a regular basis. The most important part (well, second after proper torque) is to change the inboard seal every 50,000 miles or so. It is a poor design and lets all kinds of road crap into the bearing when it wears away. Part number is 28015AA080.

I wouldn't leave any bearing in place for life without cleaning/regreasing it.

Doug
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  #33  
Old 04-20-2006, 06:49 PM
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Just had both rears and seals done by the dealership I work for, took the poor guy 5.5 hours when they only quoted me 3.9. Either way, they did everything I asked, de and regreasing the bearings, etc. On the way home, I was a bit miffed to hear that wonderful zzzzt sound yet again, definitely from the rear. Not nearly as frequent as it used to be, but still distinctly there. Is this just a temporary thing as the bearings settle and grease distributes? The buzzing did seem to get less frequent after a couple miles, and overall drivetrain noise has definitely been reduced, but that buzz still raises the hairs on the back of my neck. If this isn't normal for the first day or two of driving on new bearings, guess it'll be time to go in and have them repacked again.
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  #34  
Old 04-21-2006, 10:30 AM
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The remaining noise is likely your tires. That would explain why it's not constant.
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  #35  
Old 04-21-2006, 11:09 AM
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Finished

I finally finished what I would call a very thorough How To. I hope my attempt to explain everything didn't muddy the water. Those of you that have done it, please review for any omissions.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX10 (file at bottom right)

My How To is based on using a shop press, 2 jack stands (in addition to the two used to hold the car up), and some sockets (up to 32mm). Hope it helps.

It's a word doc. now, and that makes it a pain to update. Is there anybody that can post this here so that I can edit it, but keep the pictures? Thanks.

**I already found an error. Between 5.1 and 5.2, you need to remove the ABS sensor. But, since it's a word file I can't just go update it. Can anybody help me?**
Mat
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Last edited by SVX10; 04-21-2006 at 11:16 AM.
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  #36  
Old 05-18-2011, 08:57 PM
svx 1994 svx 1994 is offline
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Re: Rear wheel bearing how to...

hey guys thanks, again nice 411.
And I have a question > how to the rear axle nut off without spec tools
I'm answering my own question: I added penetration oil all over the axle nut and then heated the nut and added more penetration oil then the nut came off very easy without any extra press; I used just 31,75 mm socket and about 15-18cm drive, that's it.

Last edited by svx 1994; 05-26-2011 at 09:22 PM.
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  #37  
Old 05-26-2011, 09:16 PM
svx 1994 svx 1994 is offline
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Re: Finished

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVX10 View Post
6. Thoroughly clean knuckle where bearing will sit (brake cleaner is good for this)
7. Put thin layer of bearing grease on inside of knuckle where bearing will sit (make sure all brake cleaner is wiped off before doing this)
8. Press new bearing into knuckle
a. This is a critical step, so be precise and take your time
b. Ensure that bearing has plastic retainer ring installed on inner race to hold the bearing assembly together during pressing.
c. To press in new bearing, you need to find an object that is the same overall diameter as the new bearing’s OUTER race. An object that works perfectly for this is your old bearing’s outer race . DO NOT PRESS ON THE INNER RACE OF THE NEW BEARING!!! Simply place the old outer race on top of the new outer race, and press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press new bearing in from front of knuckle. Continue pressing until bearing is tight against the metal retainer ring formed into the knuckle. At no point should the press take enormous amounts of force. Ensure that your press and the knuckle are at 90* so that bearing presses in straight.
9. Re-install snap ring. Ensure that spring clip sits in the groove on the outboard edge of the new bearing
10. Install new outer oil seal. Will need to be pressed in (again, use old outer race as press tool), but pressing effort is very light.
11. Install new inner oil seal. Will need to be pressed in (again, use old outer race as press tool), but pressing effort is very light.
12. Re-install ABS tone wheel
13. Press hub back into housing.
a. While you are pressing the hub into the bearing’s inner race, the hub will displace the plastic retainer ring on the inner race of the bearing. This retainer ring is holding things together and keeping the inner races from separating from each other during the press. In order to keep the inner races from moving once this ring is displaced, you need to support the inner race on the back/bottom side of the bearing. To do so, when you are setting up this press, simply take the two inner races from the old bearing, and stack them on top of each other. Then set the knuckle/bearing assembly on top of these inner races so that the hole in the new inner race lines up with the holes of the stacked inner races. Now, when you press the hub into the new inner races, they cannot displace because they are being supported by the old inner races. If you don’t do this, the inboard inner race of your new bearing will fall out of the rear of the knuckle as you press the hub into place.

Now you should have a complete knuckle with a new bearing installed. Now just re-install the knuckle. Don’t forget to re-install the ABS sensor and e-brake cable into the knuckle, and get your pictures so you know how to put the e-brake back together
Mat
i did like this "How To" says, but now the car sounds like the rear bearing is messed up even more sound even with extra crust than it was before with the old one, what did I do wrong or maybe miss in the instruction ? Need some help pls.

svx 2wd 1994, Front WD. Problems with the rear bearing.

Last edited by svx 1994; 05-26-2011 at 09:26 PM.
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