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  #1  
Old 01-24-2008, 02:24 PM
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CV Axle replacement tips

im about to replace the cv axle on the drivers side. does anyone have any hints or tips to help me out? things i should look out for or be prepared for ahead of time that the how-to may not have said? thanks!
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  #2  
Old 01-24-2008, 03:35 PM
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2008, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLHollowX13 View Post
im about to replace the cv axle on the drivers side. does anyone have any hints or tips to help me out? things i should look out for or be prepared for ahead of time that the how-to may not have said? thanks!
I just did mine last week, and the "How To" document covered it very nicely.
Test the Roll Pin direction before installing.
Tom was a big help too, so get him, if you can.

Remember not to crank the Axel Nuts down with an air gun tho.
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  #4  
Old 01-24-2008, 08:38 PM
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While this subject is going, is torque on the front axle nuts also 151 ft-lbs? I'm putting in ball joints this weekend.

Edit: Decided to move my lazy mouse hand and check the how-to's myself. Torque is 123-152 on the front.
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  #5  
Old 01-24-2008, 08:45 PM
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I torque them to 150.

If you're doing ball joints, you don't need to take off the axle nut? If you do, take them off, either use a new nut, or make sure that there is enough "stake able" collar to re-stake them properly.
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  #6  
Old 01-24-2008, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hocrest View Post
I torque them to 150.

If you're doing ball joints, you don't need to take off the axle nut? If you do, take them off, either use a new nut, or make sure that there is enough "stake able" collar to re-stake them properly.
I have a new one already.

For the ball joints, do you just remove the pinch bolt (in the knuckle), remove the three bolts in the arm, and then pound it straight out? Makes sense. Remove pinch bolt, hammer until ball joint comes out of knuckle, remove the bolts, hammer until bracket comes off. Torch as needed.
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  #7  
Old 01-24-2008, 09:03 PM
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Yeah, you have the order right.

Undo the pinch bolt and pound down on the control arm to get the ball joint out of the spindle.

Then undo the 3 bolts and you're done.
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  #8  
Old 01-24-2008, 09:24 PM
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Easy enough. With all the rust on my car it might take a little more than some hits with a hammer, but one way or another...
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Old 01-24-2008, 09:25 PM
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If you're replacing the ball joints anyway, a pickle fork can make easy work of it.
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  #10  
Old 01-26-2008, 06:34 PM
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And

Ha Ha Ha Ha........

Make sure you take a look at your "Disk Cover", behind the Rotor when you finish the job. I tweaked mine on both sides while doing the job, and ended up with the Rotor rubbing for the few miles back home.
Quite embarrasing to have the car whistling from both sides because I tweaked the shields towards the Rotors while trying to get the three bolts out.

Amazingly this was not a really major job when I look back on it.
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Old 01-26-2008, 07:35 PM
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You mean the dust shield behind the rotor? I don't have those anymore. 15 years of salty roads ate them. Here's the left front. While replacing the brakes I decided I didn't need it anymore and gave it a little tug. That's all it took, no prying or yanking, just a light pull.

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Old 01-26-2008, 08:26 PM
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  #13  
Old 01-26-2008, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot View Post
You mean the dust shield behind the rotor? I don't have those anymore. 15 years of salty roads ate them. Here's the left front. While replacing the brakes I decided I didn't need it anymore and gave it a little tug. That's all it took, no prying or yanking, just a light pull.

Maaaaan, that is big scary. I used to live in Florida, with the Salt air, and Virginia with the Salt Roads. If I ever go back to either, then I will sacrifice a Ford.
Arizona uses Cinder to cut the ice on the roads here. Volcanic rock that's been ground to a somewhat course, BB size, then it's cleaned off the roads as soon as they dry up again.

Hmmmm "Road Herpe's" might be a good term for what happened to your dust shield. Sick
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  #14  
Old 01-26-2008, 09:49 PM
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It was suggested here a while back (I think by beav) that you can avoid the pickle and just remove the 3 bolts/nuts and push down on the control arm to avoid having to mess with the ball joints at all. I've done this every time I've done an axle and had great luck with it.
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  #15  
Old 01-28-2008, 07:43 AM
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im glad we use granite out here in CO on our roads! even the used cv axle i got for 25 bucks barely has rust on it and its been sitting for years! its in amazing shape for being used though, better than the ones on my car now! haha, i might be doing this a few more times....
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