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  #31  
Old 01-20-2008, 06:06 PM
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kwren kwren is offline
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More information for ridered777 and you are welcome Trevor!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridered777 View Post
Keith, I will check the fuses, that I know I can do.

I will check the fuses tomorrow when I have sunlight, thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, I think the problem might be deeper - If I had a blown fuse, wouldn't the "indicator" light not light up on the switch? It is certainly worth a shot. I will also keep my eyes out for things that could be ary with the system. But if it is this in-depth, I am not ripping apart the interior of my only car to track down an issue with the foglights - perhaps when I do the 5spd swap in the summer.
Of course, naturally, on our SVX's the "indicator" light actually uses a different power supply. It really does. no kidding.
Seriously Craig, getting your fog lights to work is not going to be a major thing.
Lets use a little logic here and get you going! I find that almost without exception that when we tackle a little job, complete it and something doesn't work that was working before we started, we are probably the reason.
Looking at your original post, you wanted to replace the bulbs for the fog lites because only one didn't work, right?
You did that and took a look at the switch in the dash as well. All back together, and not even one fog light works.

Lets consider the possibilities. Since there is 12 volts to the fog lights even without the ignition switch on, any of us could unknowingly touch something
that could blow a fuse while in the process of replacing the bulbs.
Checking for 12 volts at the fog lights will take care of that condition, either by finding that a fuse is blown, or that we are going to the next step.

I assume, and rightly so, that you replaced the lamps properly and pushed the quick disconnects together when finished replacing the bulbs.

while taking the fog light switch out on the dash, because of the brittle little wires on the switch, it would be easy to end up with one broken off of the switch.
I mentioned to you earlier, that did happen to me when I took out my switch.

For the next step, I would disconect the negative battery cable-before starting.

I recommend taking a careful look at the switch and close attention to the yellow and white wires in the center of the switch. They are the only ones we are concerned with at this time. Just making sure they are both still intact.
These are easy things to do and if a wire is not intact, it will have to be carefully soldered back.

I really believe that carefully following these suggestions will bring you another success story to put in your diary!

Hope this helps,
Keith
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  #32  
Old 01-20-2008, 06:07 PM
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Trevor Trevor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
Craig,

In view of the fact that the “ foglight indicator DOES light up,” the relay must be operating/closing and supplying a negative circuit to the switch assembly. (The indicator light receives a positive supply via the dimmer unit, so that full voltage may not necessarily be present at the light.)

This would indicate that the fault involves the negative circuitry from the relay to the fog lamps, or the positive supply via fuse No 4, and not the relay or the switches/circuit controlling same. All provided that the indicator light is connected correctly. You mentioned in your first post having delved in there.

You have indicated in post #4,
“Hmm. Well I inserted the (+) lead to where I disconnected the H3 bulb (positive lead from car to fog-light). I couldn't get a good negative in the socket, so I grounded it on the negative terminal of the battery”
Which I understood indicated you had no positive supply at the fog lamps.

There should be a positive supply to the lamps when ignition and all else required is switched on. Preferably use a test lamp which draws current when checking.

When the fog light switch is closed there should be a negative supply i.e. a continuity to ground. N.B. there is no permanent ground as the lamps are relay switched in the negative leg, as kwren has pointed out. This ties in with what you reported regarding your first test attempt. Again best to use a test lamp to battery. If not continuity and the lowest ohms scale and expect two or three ohms resistance in the wiring and switches. Hence the preference for a test lamp drawing current.

You must establish these two tests as being accurate. Surely from then on the path to trace the faulty circuit will be obvious.

I trust that you will now be fully aware as to my exact interest in your method of testing and the issue of impedance in respect of your original test and post.
Craig, if you had payed attention to my earlier post as above, applied a little effort, common sense and rudimentary electrical knowledge, you could have by now proceeded well along the trail towards a fix.

P.S. Your later indirect comment, "If I had a blown fuse, wouldn't the "indicator" light not light up on the switch?" indicates that you do not accept what I have detailed, even though you now admit to limited electrical knowledge. Examine the text again and realize that it was not produced without knowledge and considerable effort.
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Last edited by Trevor; 01-20-2008 at 06:27 PM.
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