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  #1  
Old 10-02-2003, 12:47 PM
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My car would not start, help!

Car started fine this morning. After sitting for 3-1/2 hours at school it would not start. Just spins and spins. So I turned off anything in the car and try again still will not start. After 5 tries I started pumping the gas petal as I was turning the engine over and it finally started followed by some white smoke. When the car is idling I can feel a small shake but the RPM’s stay the same. On the way home it ran fine and had plenty of power. On the first attempts to start the car I heard the fuel pump running for about 5 seconds but I did not hear it on the rest of my attempts this is the second time this has happened in about 45 days

Anyone have any ideas of what I should check. I’m going to go look for check engine codes.
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  #2  
Old 10-02-2003, 01:16 PM
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Well I checked for codes and I got

56 EGR System
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  #3  
Old 10-02-2003, 04:29 PM
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The code ( Exhaust Gas Reticulation System ) you report does not fall into line with your advice re the fuel pump running, possibly because it may not have been receiving fuel. The EGR system is confined to exhaust gas recirculation between the exhaust and inlet manifold.

These comments are probably simply confirming your own thoughts and you are well aware that you are faced with a mystery.
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Old 10-02-2003, 04:48 PM
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What would happen if my fuel pump was on its way out?
When I hear the fuel pump running it sounds like a short squeal.
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Old 10-02-2003, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by AFBeefcake
What would happen if my fuel pump was on its way out?
When I hear the fuel pump running it sounds like a short squeal.
If the pump fails completely your engine will not run but this will not cause consequential damge.

Does the squeal sound like a mechanical noise or fuel/pressure release related ? You should get underneath and look and listen in the hope of detecting the source of the noise.

P.S. While the engine is running remove the filler cap and listen for any change in the noise and also check if there is pressure or suction at the filler by holding some light material over the opening.
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Last edited by Trevor; 10-02-2003 at 06:00 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-02-2003, 07:09 PM
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I recommend you change your coolant temp sensor.

Mike
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2003, 08:12 PM
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do you have a part #?
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2003, 08:15 PM
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I agree with Mike. I just got mine back yesterday for the same no start but okay all day until overnight stay. Code for Water Temperature Sensor (WTS) is 21. Part is $25. Dealer labor for diagnosis and install was $212. I get a 10% discount on parts and labor but the price is ridiculous. Other members report easy change over of 10 minutes. You can see thread on hard starting in this TQA section for other comments.
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2003, 10:28 PM
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I also agree. It is not expensive and if it saves you a tow it will save you money. Any intermittent fault is a mystery and a problem and replacing the WTS which COULD be the cause is a GOOD idea and sound practice.

The fuel pump noise may be quite unrelated. Even if the problem remains after replacing the WTS you will be closer to solving the mystery and will not have wasted your money. You can then treat the fuel system as number one suspect
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Old 10-03-2003, 07:33 PM
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What about the leaky fuel injector problem? I have had a little problem with my car starting rough for about a year. It would always start right up but sometimes it would stumble at low RPMs before getting the motor up to speed. lately it does it anytime the car sits for a long time. As the temps get colder out side it seems like it doesn't have to sit as long to have it's problem. I used to be able to start it after work at it would start fine unless I work till 8:00 and then it would start rough, but today it started rough at 5:00. For some reason when it does it the RPM's stay at 2,000 unless I shut it off and restart it, so every morning I have to start the car, let it clear out and then shut it of and restart it so that it doesn't run at 2,000RPM's all the way to work. I just figured that it's injector leak and for some reson it messes up the IAC calibration. Could it maybe be the CTS?
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  #11  
Old 10-03-2003, 08:09 PM
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IAC? CTS?
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  #12  
Old 10-03-2003, 08:36 PM
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IAC= Idle air control motor , controls the engines idle speed. Also know at Subaru as Air bypass valve.

CTS= Coolant temp sensor, tells the ECM the current operating temp of the motor.
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91 Legacy Turbo 5spd. FMIC, crappy stock turbo, ACT clutch.
78 BRAT (New toy) (Soon to be EJ22T powered)
90 240 SX. RB25 powered!! DRIFT!!!111!!! (GF's car)

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  #13  
Old 10-04-2003, 01:12 AM
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Leaking fuel injector might well cause difficulty starting after car sit a few hours. White smoke and strong gas smell would also point on leaking injector.

Before you start replacing expensive parts, try to diagnose
the problem a bit further. If it is indeed a leaking fuel injector,
the way to start the car is to floor gas pedal first and start cranking next. Keep pedal steadily floored until it catches up. It will start after about 3 seconds of cranking and should run absolutely normally after that.
This is a "clear flood mode" in ECU and it works quite consistently - I've had a leaking injector for about 9 months before I fugured out the source of the problem.

Leaking injector does not do anything good to the engine (it washes oil out of cylinder walls), but it's not fatal - hey I still have the engine 60k miles later.

Fuel pump is meant to shut off after a few seconds if engine is not running.
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