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  #31  
Old 09-26-2006, 07:16 PM
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Yes unfortunately David, It comes right back on without hesitation at all right when you start it back up after clearing it. We checked all the plug on it and the wires on both are in good shape, I'm just dumbfounded that the stupid EmmEffing knock sensor that wasn't throwing a code before, is throwing one now with the new knock sensor in. After calming down I decided the best thing to do would be put in the knock sensor that was in before in there, and see if the code goes away, if it does, I might be that unlucky s.o.b that just happened to get a bad sensor from the parts store...

If you can think of any other suggestions to try, I'm all ears.


Daniel
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  #32  
Old 09-26-2006, 07:38 PM
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you have it - check the wiring, then swap in the old sensor to troubleshoot.
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  #33  
Old 09-27-2006, 10:22 AM
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Maybe the knock sensor is doing its job and telling you there's a problem elsewhere...perhaps the timing belt is off a tooth or 2.
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  #34  
Old 09-27-2006, 06:45 PM
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No, it doesn't work that way. To set a code it is watching for open or shorted circuitry and/or frequency response on the signal line when the engine is obviously running. It doesn't/won't throw a code if it 'hears' an engine problem - it only checks itself.
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  #35  
Old 09-30-2006, 11:22 AM
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Sorry, no help on the codes (I'm a complete newbie) but I just read this thread after spending last night removing the plenum from my new (to me) EG33. Man, no kidding about how brittle those vacuum hoses are ! It was like uncooked pasta, only weaker. ON my engine, I could see that a couple were broken before I got started, and by the time I got the plenum off, there were lots of little chunks lying around. Having had problems with vacuum leaks on other cars, I'd almost say removing the plenum is worthwhile project just to get at those hoses and replace them. Oh, and for fun, too.

I've got a lot to learn about this engine, but for starters i was wondering if someone could identify the three parts indicated on page 2 of this thread :

16102AA020 = ?
14774AA271 = ?
14774AA371 = ?

i.e., what do they do ? I'm using the engine for a project, and I won't need power steering, power brakes, etc. And I'm planning to read up on IRIS and see if I can control it from MegaSquirt.

TIA,
Jeff
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  #36  
Old 10-27-2006, 03:46 PM
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14774AA271(14774AA270?) = EGR Solenoid Valve (trouble code 34)
16102AA020 = Purge Control Solenoid Valve (trouble code 35)
14774AA371 = Induction Solenoid Valve

I'm replacing my EGR Solenoid Valve and the dealer ordered 14774AA371 because they list all of them generically as "solenoid" without any other differentiation. The parts are shown in the factory manuals 2&3 section 2-7, page 30 for future reference...
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  #37  
Old 11-03-2006, 09:53 AM
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Garrrrrrrrbbbaaagggeeeee

OK... I'm trying to get the Intake manifold off.... I want to know what little guy they got to sit under the manifold to make all those connections that only someone sitting under the manifold could make... My fat hands and poor eyesight may be the doom of this car... That and the cold weather that may get here soon could turn this into a part out session...
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  #38  
Old 03-16-2015, 04:58 PM
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Re: intake manifold

old thread alert....

I am in the process of removing the intake manifold for the phenolic spacers and I have the following question. How can I remove the upper intake manifold bolt right beneath behind the AC compressor?
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  #39  
Old 03-16-2015, 05:05 PM
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Re: intake manifold

old thread alert....

I am in the process of removing the intake manifold for the phenolic spacers and I have the following question. How can I remove the upper intake manifold bolt right beneath behind the AC compressor?
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  #40  
Old 03-16-2015, 07:02 PM
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Re: intake manifold

It's been a long time, but I think you come in underneath from the front with an open end wrench for that one.
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  #41  
Old 03-16-2015, 08:37 PM
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Re: intake manifold

Don't separate the upper and lower intake manifold. Instead, separate the TB from the IM, (you can leave the coolant lines and throttle cables intact) and take the whole IM out as one giant assembly.

You need to first remove the bracket between the compressor and the intake manifold. 14mm wrench bolts. Once that's out, you can get at the manifold to head bolt with a socket and extension.

Pics below:


Quote:
Originally Posted by theflystyle View Post
old thread alert....

I am in the process of removing the intake manifold for the phenolic spacers and I have the following question. How can I remove the upper intake manifold bolt right beneath behind the AC compressor?
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Last edited by Stevebsy; 03-16-2015 at 08:57 PM.
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  #42  
Old 03-16-2015, 08:48 PM
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Re: intake manifold

There are 7 bolts on each side that hold the IM to the Heads.

There are several other things that must also be disconnected - fuel lines, vacuum lines, electrical connectors, EGR tube to name a few.




My fingers are sort of pointing at the 14mm head bolts to remove between the AC and the IM
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bolts.jpg (148.5 KB, 314 views)
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Custom Oil Caps, Battery Bars, Phenolic Spacers for sale here:
http://www.x35design.com

Last edited by Stevebsy; 03-16-2015 at 08:54 PM.
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  #43  
Old 03-16-2015, 09:01 PM
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Re: intake manifold

Here is a short list of items that connect from the IM back to the car somehow:


1. Throttle body to IM
(now start at the front right and work your way clockwise around the IM)
2. Carbon canister, two lines
3. Power Steering electrical connector
4. EGR sensor
5. EGR Tube
6. Two small vacuum lines
(now near the center rear of the IM)
7. 3x vacuum lines small dia.
8. 3 electrical connectors for I believe coolant temp, IAC, and TPS
9. Vacuum line to brake booster
10. 3x Fuel lines.


I should have the whole procedure written up sometime this week, message me if you get stuck on something.

There are some pictures and stuff here as well:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/X35-D...19198304830633
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Custom Oil Caps, Battery Bars, Phenolic Spacers for sale here:
http://www.x35design.com

Last edited by Stevebsy; 03-16-2015 at 09:11 PM.
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  #44  
Old 03-17-2015, 09:58 AM
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Re: intake manifold

Thanks for the replies...

I was thinking if I removed the upper intake manifold then I would have more access but I guess not. I planned on separating the upper/lower portions since I planned on a deep clean and repaint anyways.

I was trying to follow the guides posted on the forum and I got all the vacuum/coolant lines from the Throttle Body area removed. I will reattach the upper bolts and then see if I can get the whole assembly out in one piece.
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  #45  
Old 03-17-2015, 05:21 PM
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Re: intake manifold

Just to update in case someone searched and came across the same issue. If you want more access to the upper intake manifold bold closest to the AC compressor, just remove the oil filler tube which is held on by two small bolts.

Stevebsy - Thanks for the offer, you have a PM
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2008 Legacy 3.0R
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