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#1
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radiator replacement
just curious if anyone could give me any heads up before i go to remove the radiator to install the new one i just got...if any one has any helpful hints or suggestions please tell...thanks for any help
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#2
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Re: radiator replacement
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Mike (Green1995) and Chris (SVXman200) can probably give you some insights. Just don't break your draincock.
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Randy Johnson 3rd Registered Member 02-21-2001 First Member to Reach 10,000 Posts First to arrive at the very first Reading Meet Subaru Ambassador 1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k 1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles 2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles 2013 Deep Indigo Pearl Legacy 3.6R 49+K miles "Reading is my favorite Holiday" Mike Davis -- at Reading VI |
#3
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If you've done any repairs (of any kind) before, this should be a snap. Still, here are my recommendations:
1. Replace the radiator hoses and clamps while you're at it. 2. Might as well replace the thermostat, too. It's, what, four bucks?
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#4
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cool appreciate the replys everything went fine just wanted to check and see if there were any special quirks that the svx had in particular, but everything came out and went in fine just waiting on the coolant to get here from the store and ill be all set, now to fix the oil leaks from the engine
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#5
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Uhm . . . wouldn't that have been easier with the radiator out?
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Randy Johnson 3rd Registered Member 02-21-2001 First Member to Reach 10,000 Posts First to arrive at the very first Reading Meet Subaru Ambassador 1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k 1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles 2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles 2013 Deep Indigo Pearl Legacy 3.6R 49+K miles "Reading is my favorite Holiday" Mike Davis -- at Reading VI |
#6
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hehe... im sure it would of but without the $300 manuals and the $XXX (insert absurd amount of money here) for all the parts and special tools and that really expensive thing that always gets ya at a mechanic...oh yea time i would have loved to fix them...However i believe that teaching myself how to fix the seals on the engine of this car might be a little harder then working on my jeep so i think i might have to have the dealer do it
unless you all think that someone can replace the typical seals plus cvjoints, plus bearings and possible transfer clutches...i would like to think i can do it but when everytime i look at the engine i get discouraged because its so much more modern then anything else i;ve ever worked on, i dont know if i should get the manuals or just say screw it and have the dealer do it $$$$$$ any help on this is as always greatly appreciated |
#7
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FYI
I replaced my front engine seal, spark plugs, timing belt and alternator in one fell swoop with no factory service manuals - all I had to help me was the excellent advice found on this here site. Oh, I did have a Chilton's manual, but the amount of help that book actually provided was questionable...
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#8
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Oh, and the manuals were only 170.00 and change, when I bought them for my 92, back in 99. But, like Nick said, you can get just about any info you need (including how to do stuff without the Subaru "special tools"), right here.
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Randy Johnson 3rd Registered Member 02-21-2001 First Member to Reach 10,000 Posts First to arrive at the very first Reading Meet Subaru Ambassador 1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k 1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles 2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles 2013 Deep Indigo Pearl Legacy 3.6R 49+K miles "Reading is my favorite Holiday" Mike Davis -- at Reading VI |
#9
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oh boy
well i thoght all was well...any ideas as to why the car is only blowing cold air and not circulating the water????the car is overheating and not pulling the water from the resevoir???any ideas or hints as to what to do would be great...thanks for the help in advance
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#10
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alright well i forgot to burp the system i believe cause now its ok that burped it...but thanks for the replies and help again
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#11
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#12
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They're not hard to replace, but you will need a couple of things. One is a dremel with a flexible shaft or a 90 degree adapter. You have to drill a small hole into the seal and there just isn't enough room to get a conventional drill in there. While Beav has had success using a pick to pull the seals out using the freshly drilled hole, I had no such luck. They were on way too tight for the pick to be of any use. Instead, I use a very small screw and a couple of different pry bars to pull the seals out.
KuoH Quote:
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#13
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so about the seals in the engine...about how long of a job are we tlaking about here with someone who has never done this type of thing before...i mean ive pulled the head off my jeep and the trannny but nothing on the svx....couple days maybe???or more???any recommendations on a good dremmel or will any do the trick???as long as its got the angle or the adapter
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#14
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I've never done it before, but it took me about 8 or 9 hours to replace the seals, water pump, and seals. The first seal took the longest because I was trying to use a tiny hand drill and searching around the garage for something to pull the seal out with. Then I spent another hour or so to go buy the dremmel and other miscellaneous items. The other two seals only took about 10 minutes each, from drilling the hole to pulling it out. I did spend a fair amount of time cleaning the shafts and where the seals seat. Try not to destroy the seals when taking them out, you may need them later.
To install the new seals, I put a little bit of oil on the inner lip of the seal and slid it back on the shaft as far as it would go. Thinking back now, I probably should've put some oil on the shaft as well, since the process of sliding it back probably removed most of the oil from the seal. You won't be able to just push the seal in all the way. I'm sure there's some special tool to properly seat the seals, but I just smoothed out the face of the old seal (because of the screw hole), turned it around backwards so the face of the old seal was against the new one, put on the pulley and started tightening until I was satisfied that the seal was seated all the way. Then I removed the pulley and old seal and reinstalled the pulley. Oh and incase I forgot to mention it, you will need a strap wrench or something to hold the pulleys still while removing the pulley bolts. A large breaker bar and someone to help wouldn't hurt either. KuoH |
#15
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Is there a draincock on the bottom of the radiators? Where is it?
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