Attempting Timing Belt / Water Pump Replacement - Tips/Advice.

Subix · #1 10-29-2010, 05:48 PM

My belt broke coming off a freeway and am curious if I will run into any issues as far as alignment marks may go since it broke. I looked for a proper how-to here but couldn't find one? Just a picture to the timing belt setup.

I've done spark plugs, radiator, power steering pump, O2 sensors, alternator, pulley tensioner, but fear doing a timing belt, water pump and thermostat combination.... but, will try I guess... oppose to spending $425.

As far as the water pump is concerned, what do I need to seal it if anything at all? (I have the pump itself and the seals, just not sure if I need anything else to bond it so to speak? I'm ignorant about this, sorry.)

So far I have the driver side fan out, driver side cover off and pulley tensioner before it got dark out. Plan on tackling more tomorrow when the sun rises. I'm not sure what I need to do about the AC pulley in getting that mess off, as I'm assuming I do have to remove it. Any pointers? It's been seized anyways so it needs to come off anyways... just no replacement for it yet and since it'll be snowing soon, no need

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA!

Cam · #2 10-29-2010, 06:02 PM

You do not need anything to seal the waterpump besides the seals. Get a new thermostat though. And use thread lock on the bolts. As far as the a/c pump, iust remove it. purge it first using the relief valve on the driver side. Do this otside and do not lay on the ground for at least 30 minutes after to avoid passing out and getting freon poisoning.

Good luck.

P.s. try Google for svx factory service manual.

svxfiles · #3 10-29-2010, 07:32 PM

The AC compressor does not need to be touched at all!
Pull the radiator with the fans attached.

Cam · #4 10-29-2010, 07:40 PM

It's been a while since I looked in a complete engine bay. Nevermind about the a/c I guess.

svxfiles · #5 10-29-2010, 08:28 PM

Removing the rad, and the charcoal canister and bracket gives alot of room.

Alternator, power steering bracket as well.
Change the PS reservoir O-ring.
And if you can steam the engine BEFORE you tear it apart makes the job alot better too.
Its a good time to reseal the oil pump.
Its a good time to replace the cam plugs and cam seals.
Use ONLY gray sealer.
Change the oil before you start it.
Let it sit overnight to let the gray cure.
Try to "start" it with the igniter disconnected so that you can regain oil pressure before you REALLY start it.
Spring clamps help with the timing belt install.
While you are down there replace your cracked IRIS check valve and brittle hoses.
With a lift and good lighting you can do this in about five hours.

Young Tom would be done by now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:eek :

jeffs92svx · #6 10-30-2010, 09:37 AM

mine is getting done right now. It cost 83 for the belt 80 for the pump and $198 in labor. I figured i would rather spend 200 bucks and get it done instead of messing with it myself. I did my celica and they are a pain in the butt.

Subix · #7 10-30-2010, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffs92svx

mine is getting done right now. It cost 83 for the belt 80 for the pump and $198 in labor. I figured i would rather spend 200 bucks and get it done instead of messing with it myself. I did my celica and they are a pain in the butt.

Trust me... I would much rather spend $200 to have someone do it... but this is not the case. For $425... it's another story. I continue with ripping it apart now... woot.

Subix · #8 10-30-2010, 12:22 PM

Awesome. God forbid I make it more than 15 minutes into it before I nudge my power steering line slightly and my car starts bleeding all over the place. +1 for dry rot.

fml

1986nate · #9 10-30-2010, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subix

Awesome. God forbid I make it more than 15 minutes into it before I nudge my power steering line slightly and my car starts bleeding all over the place. +1 for dry rot.

fml

Clint, better now than when you're going down the freeway at 70mph

davew833 · #10 10-30-2010, 10:21 PM

If you feel the need to remove the A/C compressor (and there's really no reason to) don't disconnect the hoses or vent the system of refrigerant, just unbolt it from the bracket and move it out of the way.

Johnybeas · #11 10-30-2010, 10:31 PM

tips/advice: don't F### it up...

Subix · #12 10-31-2010, 08:40 AM

Someone once said it could be done in 5 hours.

I spent 5 hours getting about 45% complete with it yesterday. With no solid tutorial, I am just sort of winging it after all. Also, with that said... I am now starting to think the tune of $400 isn't so bad.

The time, the tools and dare I say the things that will break along the way. What a PITA.

The middle belt cover seems shot. The rubber support around the cover was loose and seemed melted in some spots with the front cover being pushed into the crankshaft, grinding a hole around the edges. I'm not sure if this contributed to the breaking of my belt or not but I doubt I'll be using this one again anyways.

People always toy with the idea of running these cars without the covers. After looking at how open the car is, it would almost seem idiotic to even consider doing such. Which means I'll have to find a solid used replacement or plunk another $60 for a ****ty plastic housing for this belt.

The crankshaft pulley is the biggest hassle so far. It finally broke loose after an hour of messing with it and some advice from Nate and help from a friend, thanks. I can't seem to figure out what next to take off to remove the water pump properly.

1. Do I need to remove the back belt cover to gain access to any more screws on the water pump to remove it? That doesn't seem right but I don't know. There still seems to be a screw holding it on somewhere.

2. How can I actually tell if the water pump is bad? Other than it being seized, which it certainly doesn't appear to be, is there any other signs?
Either way, I'm replacing it. Done deal, I already got a new one. As well as a thermostat.

I love this car... but now I see why people buy new ones. haha...

jeffs92svx · #13 10-31-2010, 08:48 AM

5 hours seems a lot. I got 2 quotes, one for $198 and one for $200 and they go by a book that gives them the amount of hours it should take and they charge like $60 per hour. I live in WV and both places were withing $2 so, I had it put in the shop with them. Of course thats only the labor. They said that they have to put it up in the air and it would be a hard job to do at home with no lift. I'll find out how long it takes when i pick it up. The water pump didnt come in and wont be here until monday so they are going to finish it monday. I'll let you know how long it took a shop.

svxfiles · #14 10-31-2010, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffs92svx

5 hours seems a lot.

That includes the oil pump reseal,
tightening the five screws on the back of it,
both cam plugs,
both cam seals.
While you have it apart you might as well do it right!

Subix · #15 10-31-2010, 01:58 PM

Threads without photos suck so without further ado...

Any further input on removing the water pump and if I have to actually take the rear belt housing off to access any other screws? TIA...

While I'm here... does anyone have an extra middle belt housing they would like to part with for a good price?

The timing belt that broked da da... haha...