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  #46  
Old 03-23-2008, 10:16 PM
914helo 914helo is offline
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Still no luck. However, I have this loose connection near the 2 pins and diagnostic connector. Mine is not connected to anything and don't see any other loose connections nearby. Can anybody tell for sure if this is supposed to be connected to something, and what? Thanks
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  #47  
Old 03-24-2008, 04:37 AM
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b3lha b3lha is offline
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We don't know what that connector is for. It is left unconnected. Any idea where the wire goes?

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=38913
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  #48  
Old 03-24-2008, 08:07 AM
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That looks like maybe the Cigerette lighter wire....

The little wire in the background wraped in blue I think is the diagnostic wire for the seat belt system.....

but my memory isn't too clear on it...
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  #49  
Old 03-24-2008, 08:54 AM
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thats one of the randoms, that we are not sure its purpose but is in the bundle by the Diagnostic conn. I am assuming that you have checked all pins on the ECU for correct voltage yes??

Tom
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  #50  
Old 03-24-2008, 09:06 AM
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Where did this ECU come from? Is it from a parts car that you have seen running, or has it just come from a breaker? Have you seen it working? Do you know for sure that it works? Is it definitely an SVX ECU?

If you are not sure that it is good, open the lid and look inside. Is there a chip in the upgrade socket? Has the tan resistor J1 been cut? Has the ferrite bead L1 been crushed?
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1992 Alcyone SVX Version L
1994 Alcyone SVX S40-II
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Last edited by b3lha; 03-24-2008 at 09:09 AM.
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  #51  
Old 03-24-2008, 10:22 PM
914helo 914helo is offline
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That unknown connector mysteriously has no voltage, even with the ignition key on. As for the ECU, I bought it on this site and I did add ECUtune stage 1. Is there an easy/quick way to tell if an ECU is good? I will check the J1 connector. I have checked the voltages on the ECU and a couple were a little off. Both for the by-pass air control solenoid valve were different than the pinout. B62/2 was very high (14V) and B62/1 was very low (1.5V). This is the Idle Air Control Valve, right? I will check this again, as well as the neutral switch and parking switch, with both read 4.7V, instead of 0 or 8.
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  #52  
Old 03-25-2008, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 914helo View Post
That unknown connector mysteriously has no voltage, even with the ignition key on. As for the ECU, I bought it on this site and I did add ECUtune stage 1. Is there an easy/quick way to tell if an ECU is good? I will check the J1 connector. I have checked the voltages on the ECU and a couple were a little off. Both for the by-pass air control solenoid valve were different than the pinout. B62/2 was very high (14V) and B62/1 was very low (1.5V). This is the Idle Air Control Valve, right? I will check this again, as well as the neutral switch and parking switch, with both read 4.7V, instead of 0 or 8.
It is unlikely to be a problem with the ECU or the stage 1, but we are running out ideas. Since you are a customer of LAN, and he is the ECU expert, I suggest emailing him to ask for an opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by longassname View Post
If the memory is corrupted or the memory adaptor is faulty the ecu simply won't work at all. You won't get a check engine light with the key on, you will hear relays clicking wildy and know to turn the key off, and the car wouldn't start at all.
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  #53  
Old 03-25-2008, 08:04 AM
914helo 914helo is offline
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B3lha, thanks for the idea. I will send him a message.
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  #54  
Old 03-25-2008, 12:17 PM
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I'm not looking at a wiring diagram or anything but I read the thread and want to clarify something to start with. Your injector grounds aren't wired to the ecu are they? I hope you retained the factory harnesses and plugged the ignitor in where it goes.
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  #55  
Old 03-25-2008, 10:03 PM
914helo 914helo is offline
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I do have the factory, almost all intact. The igniter is plugged in it's stock location. As for the injector grounds, I'm honestly not sure what you mean by that. With the ignition switch on, both injector wires do have power. Is there something I should be looking for? Thanks
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  #56  
Old 03-25-2008, 10:08 PM
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do your coil packs have power?? With the key forward they should have a 12v. constant on one wire, in the big loom they are black/white... Not sure what they are at the coil itself

Tom
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  #57  
Old 03-25-2008, 10:40 PM
914helo 914helo is offline
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OK, I just checked one of the ignition coil connectors, on both sides. With the ignition switch on, both wires are getting around 12V.
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  #58  
Old 03-26-2008, 12:02 AM
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Sorry had my own internal brain misswiring problem there for that one.


Ok, I suggest we put asside looking for spark for now. You said you are hearing the wild relay and solenoid valve clicking and irratic check engine light behavior so I'm going to assume your ecu isn't working and that we should start there.


If you could tell me where you have cut your harness that would probably be helpful but let's get you started on verifying the power and ground to the ecu.

Power:
power is supplied to the ecu by the "main relay." The plug for the main relay is labled as b52 in the service manual.

listen for main relay click while turning on ignition switch
leave ignition switch on
Unplug the main relay and check the harnes plug power supply
__ _ __
|1|_|2|
|3 | 4|
|5 | 6|
-------

between 2 and body 10V or more
between 4 and body 10V or more
between 5 and body 10V or more

if correct or once corrected turn off ignition switch
plug main relay back in
unplug b59 from ecu and check harness plug for power
between b59 #2 and body 10v or more
between b59 #13 and body 10v or more

if correct or once corrected unplug b62 from ecu and check the ground supply to the ecu by measuring resistance between the harness plugs and the body
b59 #11 and body 0 ohm
b59 #22 and body 0 ohm
b62 #5 and body 0 ohm
b62 #14 and body 0 ohm
b62 #24 and body 0 ohm
b62 #25 and body 0 ohm






Quote:
Originally Posted by 914helo View Post
I do have the factory, almost all intact. The igniter is plugged in it's stock location. As for the injector grounds, I'm honestly not sure what you mean by that. With the ignition switch on, both injector wires do have power. Is there something I should be looking for? Thanks
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  #59  
Old 03-26-2008, 10:22 PM
914helo 914helo is offline
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Longassname, thanks for the input. I tested this with my battery at 12.7volts. The main relay does click when turning the ignition switch on. When I unplugged the main relay all 6 fuel injectors seems to click rapidly. With the main relay unplugged, connector 2 (brown/black) was at 11.72V. 4(blue) and 5(yellow) showed .05 and .03. Both of these are around 12V when the relay is plugged in though.
Main relay plugged back in and ignition switch on: B59 pins 2 and 13 (both white/red) showed just over 12V.
With ignition switch on and checking for grounds was disturbing bad. All but 1 were around 12 to 28 ohms. B62 pin 5 showed 1 on my multimeter, meaning there's a break in the circuit. My ECU pinout diagram says this is to the self-shutoff control. When B62 is plugged into the ECU, at pin 5 I still get 1 despite having good voltage.
With my high resistance readings it seems like my ECU is getting voltage, but not really running? Short in the wiring or open circuit? I apologize for my lack of electrical knowlede. Thanks
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  #60  
Old 03-26-2008, 10:42 PM
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woops...should have stopped when you failed check 1

It's sounds certain you have your harness connections to power and ground messed up and have things flowing all kinds of wrong directions through the main relay. Unplug your ecu and unplug your main relay and don't plug your main relay back in until you get your power to it right..and don't plug your ecu back in until you get your ground to it right.
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