can i drive if i pull my driveline out?

lilbrudder · #1 12-12-2007, 10:31 PM

i'm trying to diagnose a high frequency vibration i'm getting after i had my u-joints replaced. the vibration happens at 60mph+, i had it balanced but that was a waste of $70. would there be any negitive effects of driving a couple miles without my drive line in? if that is not a good idea is there any other safe way to isolate the vibration?

Hondasucks · #2 12-12-2007, 10:44 PM

If you put your FWD fuse in, and put a plug (Snout of an old drive shaft works great) into the tranny otherwise you'll lose fluid out the tailshaft.

TomsSVX · #3 12-12-2007, 10:45 PM

This screams bad idea... The only way to safely disconect the driveshaft is if you have a 2 piece shaft which can be seperated via the 4 bolt flage in the center of the shaft and also at the rear differential

Tom

lilbrudder · #4 12-12-2007, 11:08 PM

oh, i don't think my fwd fuse works, it hasen't since a did a motor/tranny replace like 2 yrs ago (it's likely some thing simple but i never took the time to check it out). Tom, i don't have a two piece then, mine only unbolts in the back. is there any way to replace the carrier cv bearing? my drive shaft guy said it was not possible. this vibration has to go, i have too much invested to turn back now!

reptar_head · #5 12-13-2007, 06:45 AM

Tow trucks disconnect driveshafts all the time to tow vehicles. I don't see why it would be a problem, aside from losing the fluid like they said above. Just tape a ziplock bag or something around the output snout and go with it. Hell I've driven my Jeep around with no rear driveshaft before. Of course that's a Jeep with a transfer case, but I still didn't have any problems.

Hocrest · #6 12-13-2007, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reptar_head

Tow trucks disconnect driveshafts all the time to tow vehicles. I don't see why it would be a problem, aside from losing the fluid like they said above. Just tape a ziplock bag or something around the output snout and go with it. Hell I've driven my Jeep around with no rear driveshaft before. Of course that's a Jeep with a transfer case, but I still didn't have any problems.

If the car's not running, then a baggie will hold the fluid, but as soon as you start the car and fluid in the tailshaft gets pressurized it's all over...

The center joint can be rebuilt, they should have looked at it when they did the rebuild??

Have you checked your tires? Axles?

lilbrudder · #7 12-13-2007, 03:45 PM

i have had the tires less than 2000 miles and had them balanced 4 or 5 times because i thought a different vibration (turned out to be from my u-joints) was coming from them. now after the u-joints were replaced i am getting a similar vibration but with a much higher frequency(it literally feels like i'm driving a giant cell phone on vibrate when i hit 60+) i can feel it through out the whole car(i can't even see out of my mirrors, everything is blurry) . had the front axles rebuilt after the new vibration started it did not help. i replaced the wheel bearings front and rear less than 1000 miles ago. new breaks and rotors 1000 miles ago. new front ball joints 500miles ago.the guy who did my axles, u-joints, and balanced the driveshaft said he might feel a little play in the carrier bearing but it is not repairable(he said rear axles feel good too). is there any info on a rebuild for that carrier bearing, i couldn't find any specifics with a search.

YourConfused · #8 12-13-2007, 04:10 PM

Just because you had your tires balanced doesn't mean that they or the wheels are round. I remember hearing that a bad rear tire will make the whole car feel like it is vibration, whereas a bad front tire will just make the front vibrate. Try moving the front tires to the rear.

lilbrudder · #9 12-13-2007, 07:53 PM

yeah, i had that before, that's one reason i got new rims last time i replaced the tires. honestly it feels like too high of a frequency to be wheels or tires and i'm a little suspicious that this started on my way home from having u-joints replaced(that's why i had the drive line rebalanced.) but rotating the tires is worth a try, being free and all!

reptar_head · #10 12-13-2007, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hocrest

If the car's not running, then a baggie will hold the fluid, but as soon as you start the car and fluid in the tailshaft gets pressurized it's all over...

The center joint can be rebuilt, they should have looked at it when they did the rebuild??

Have you checked your tires? Axles?

Transmissions have vent tubes, they're never pressurized, except within the valve body and such.

Onto the problem, i'd say try another set of u joints. It's just throwing parts at it at that point, but unless you're willing to take the driveshaft out to narrow it down, then there's not much else you can do but throw parts at it.

Hondasucks · #11 12-13-2007, 09:15 PM

Transmission fluid IS under pressure and if you don't have the tail shaft plugged it WILL dump out a crapload of fluid if the tailshaft isn't plugged! I think the safest way is to plug your FWD fuse in, and remove the rear axle shafts, that'll keep your driveshaft from spinning.

Are all four bolts holding the drive shaft to the rear diffy the same size? with the same # of washers and same size nut on each? That'll make it vibrate if one of 'ems different.

lilbrudder · #12 12-14-2007, 04:48 AM

oh, i never thought of that. i'm going to see if my fwd fuse can be fixed easy, because removing the rear axles has potential. about the balance(nuts and bolts and such) there is the same amount of all, BUT i noticed the four corners of the rear flange don't quite match. i'll try to expain, where the square end of the drive shaft(each corner with one bolt) bolts to the circle plate coming off the rear diff. one of the square corners hangs over the circle plate a millimeter or less while the opposite corner is tucked in roughy the same amount, the other two are flush. i know the obvious answer is try to adjust but it won't, i even tried rotating to the next hole, so no matter which way(of 4) you bolt it it ends up looking the same. so aparently it has alway been like that because i don't see a way to change it. i still suspect the carrier bearing does any know rebuild info for it? what about rear axles needing a rebuild, could this cause such a high frequency vibration? do any shops have a rack they can put it on while the wheels are in motion at 60+? (seems kinda dangerous but it would be helpful to diagnose)

reptar_head · #13 12-14-2007, 06:54 AM

I doubt the rear axles are at fault, I've never seen an axle cause a high frequency vibration, they're always really hard thumps. I'd say you get the car off the ground and run it and see if you can tell where it's coming from. After that, pull the driveline and run it in the air, since it seems that no one has actually done it, we're just guessing as to what will happen. If fluid start coming out, shut it off and we'll know you can't do that, no harm done.

lilbrudder · #14 12-14-2007, 11:41 AM

well your right, it doesn't seem likely to be axles to me either. i don't think removing the axles and driving with the fwd fuse will work now that i've thought it over, no axles, nothing holding wheel bearing together(right?). well i like the sound of getting it off the ground and driving but not with the equipment i have(2 jack stands and the spare tire jack) plus i ain't gettin under there when it's going, that's what neighbors are for

. still no one that has rebuilt there carrier bearing?

reptar_head · #15 12-14-2007, 06:03 PM

Yeah I've got no into on the carrier bearing, hopefully someone will chime in. I'd go buy 2 more jack stands and get under there and see what's going on. We run cars on the lifts all the time, one guy had a vibration at 60mph, so that's what we ran it at on the lift. You shouldn't hurt anything, although I've never done it with an SVX so I can't say 100%