Is it happening?

My transmission is "slipping" when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. i.e. the transition is delayed with the revs going up as if in neutral gear. Also, on the highway (in any gear) when putting my foot down the engine revs really high for a few seconds before any of it actually affects the car's speed....

Please tell me it ain't so Or if there's anything that can be done to prevent any major damage?

Thanks,
Pete.

[immortal_suby]

check this thread for some good diagnostics on a slipping tranny. There may be hope.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...threadid=17434

[lee]

since you seem to have both the 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 gear slipping, it seems likely to me that the band is slipping.

You need to read this thread if you want to tackle it:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...threadid=14346

the attachment at the end shows a page from the manual on the subject. Search some more, there's been lots of stuff on adjusting the band.

I would consider this VERY soon, as each time it slips you lose a bit more of the friction material that makes the band work.

Thanks for the links, I'm reading through those threads now. I'll no doubt be back with some questions, but for now what's the best strategy for preserving the tranny (the car is my daily driver and I need to get to work this week).

I was thinking leave it in 3 with the manual button engaged, that way I avoid the 1-2 flare/slip and also any potential 3/4 problem (which I'm yet to confirm but I think under acceleration when changing back to 3rd it flares/slips there too).

Thanks,
Pete.

[mranderson]

ok mine is just flaring occasionally when going from 1-2?? What could this be ive gone through the post and there is usually something else slipping i believe. It only happens about once a day, and i drive a lot. It is also at slow acceleration. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[lee]

Originally posted by amuse
Thanks for the links, I'm reading through those threads now. I'll no doubt be back with some questions, but for now what's the best strategy for preserving the tranny (the car is my daily driver and I need to get to work this week).

I was thinking leave it in 3 with the manual button engaged, that way I avoid the 1-2 flare/slip and also any potential 3/4 problem (which I'm yet to confirm but I think under acceleration when changing back to 3rd it flares/slips there too).

Thanks,
Pete.

If you have the two wrenches, (17mm and 7mm) you can do the 3/4 turn clockwise thing in just a few minutes. It's not hard at all (except for the circus-trained contortionist aspect).

recapping the instructions: feel back along the top of the transmission just to the inside of the starter. You'll feel the adjuster more than see it. drop the 17mm wrench over the nut and turn it toward the driver's side fender (just enough to break it loose). If you remove the vent hose to the transmission (just at the side of the dog-bone), you'll be able to get about 1/4 turn per movement before you have to remove the 7mm and reposition. Actually using the 7mm is a bit tougher. I used my finger tips to "see" which way the flats were arranged. slide the 7mm along the shank of the 17mm until you get it on the stud sticking up. then turn clockwise (as if you were looking down on it). Repeat about 3 times (assuming you were able to get 1/4 turn movements). All this should take maybe 5 minutes once you get past the stage fright of what you're trying to do. Then just push the 17mm wrench back to lock down the nut you loosened in the first place, replace the vent hose, voilà! BTW, many recommend unhooking the battery negative cable to prevent shorting out on the starter. My starter has a large rubber cover over the cable so I was not in much danger, but unhooking the battery negative post is almost always a good idea when anywhere near electrical things.

Your description is a classic case of needing a band adjustment. The sooner you do it the more likely you are to save a rebuild.

[immortal_suby]

Originally posted by lee
BTW, many recommend unhooking the battery negative cable to prevent shorting out on the starter. My starter has a large rubber cover over the cable so I was not in much danger, but unhooking the battery negative post is almost always a good idea when anywhere near electrical things..

Please unplug the battery. My starter has the rubber piece over it also yet somehow I managed to create a brilliant light show while adjusting my brake band.

Ok, quick update. I went to see the local Subaru dealer's top mechanic during lunchtime. He's very familiar with the SVX, they regularly service at least half a dozen of 'em. Mine has been serviced there on the dot for 10 years coming August.

Anyway, we didn't have time for a road test - which he'll do on Monday (with full diagnostics kit hooked up) - but he agrees it's likely to be the brake band. The bad part is that he says that a brake band adjustment is not really a recommended procedure; that it's only something that's done following tranny overhaul.

He's willing to give it a try pending the outcome of the test on Monday which is good news. Note that I do no trust myself to lay any hands on any part of the inner workings of my car...

In the mean time, is my strategy of driving very conservatively in 3rd gear with the Manual button on, to only end up using 2nd and 3rd gear, a wise thing to do?

Oh, one more thing - he mentioned eliminating the TPS as a possible cause by removing the "tcu plug" (if I remember correctly). Would this just be another way of referring to the "dropping resistor"?

Thanks,
Pete.

[oab_au]

Sorry to be late, been down with the flu.

It is the band slipping, as you get it on the 2nd/3rd change, and also on the 3rd/4th change. Did this come on all of a sudden, or slowly?. The fact that it has appeared in the 3/4 so soon, is not common. As the band is wearing, it will be felt to slip first, in the 2/3 change, as the load on the band is higher, as it silps and wears more, it also will do it in the 3/4 change.

To come on that fast it may be electrical, may be the TPS signal is not increasing the line pressure enough or a high resistance connection.

Yes the band is for adjusting, to take up wear in the band lining, they have a thick lining on the band, about 1.5mm. Gee I am suprised to hear them say, its not for servicing. That means that there will be gear box failures due to it not being done, here in Aust.

The way to drive it is by changing gears with the stick. From a start slect 1st, get going, select 3rd, If it wants to change into 2nd, move straight into 3rd. This way you will avoid using the band. Don't use the Manual mode button, as it will try to take off in 2nd with much band slipping.

Either way Pete I think it is fixable from out side.

Harvey.

Hi Harvey, thanks for your input, hope you're feeling better. It looks like this is happening to me just when this topic is hot in the other threads. Where would I be without this group

Some clarifications first; I think "flair" is the better description rather than "slip" for what I'm experiencing. Also, this is NOT noticeable happening in the 2/3 shift but very much happening in the 1/2 shift and less so in the 3/4 shift.

So I'm not sure what implications this has on your advice? i.e. I have been driving in 3 with the manual button on precisely to avoid both the 1/2 and 3/4 transitions. It seems to be effective in the limited driving I have to do to get to work. I live on top of a steep driveway, so when I get home I put it in 1st gear for the climb up.

Anyway, I suppose either I'm totally mistaken about the gear changes or this means there's something else at play? What do you think?

The other thing I have not yet mentioned, but has been happening for probably about 6 months, is the exhaust assembly rattling/shaking quite severely. It doesn't appear to happen in a straight line but anytime I'm taking off at an angle it's there, especially when turning up hill (like the driveway at home). I've tried to get a few opinions on this.

First theory was that maybe one of the "baffles" in the exhaust had come lose, but this would then rattle all the time? Next theory, "engine mount problem". Did a brief stall test with a mechanic looking for engine vibrations. But didn't seem significant.
Current theory is that maybe it's the transmission.... (i.e. I mentioned it to the SVX mechanic at yesterday's visit and he said it could be related).

I'm dropping it in Monday, and they'll do some diagnostics and road tests then. Hopefully the brake band adjustment will do the trick.

Cheers,
Pete.

p.s. Yes it came on suddenly in 1/2 - well after a 1000klm drive from the Gold Coast to Port Macquarie and back that is. You know, with all those up hill overtaking passages...

[oab_au]

Yes Pete, do what ever it takes, to prevent it from slipping, till Monday. I am sure they will find the trouble, without pulling the box.

Harvey.

Ok, the Subaru mechanic has had the car. It's slipping in and out of 2nd gear now as well as the flaring in the gear changes. Strangely, when I put it in Manual mode and leave it in 3rd it's still driveable without much slipping/flaring.

Anyway, I asked them to do the brake band adjustment, but they couldn't get the locking nut loose. Now I have to take back again tomorrow, so that they get time to pull the starter engine off etc to make room for enough leverage to get it off.

I got another opinion from a transmission specialist across the road, who also gave it a roadtest and came back saying I'm definitely up for a complete overhaul. I asked him about at least trying the brake band adjustment - but he said he wouldn't be game without first opening her up to take a look.

Personally I can't see the harm in trying the brake band adjustment? I thought all it does is ensure the brake band is at the right tightness. It either fixes the problem (if it was too lose) or it doesn't (lining worn?). But it's not going to make things worse than they already are right? The guy was not impressed by my 2nd guessing him ("I've been doing this for 30 years man... etc").

It's not looking good, but I should know for sure by tomorrow I guess. Don't think I'll be able to keep this car the way it's going

Cheers,
Pete.

[oab_au]

Hi Pete, Stick with it mate. It is one of the two, band or TPS signal. Have they checked the TPS signal at the dropping resistor yet? This can drop the line pressure, if it is going low or missing.

I reckond "Mr30 yrs. on the job" thinks it has been slipping like this for some time, and would have burnt it self up a bit.

All the best to-day.

Harvey.

Hello again,

Just got the car back. The brake and adjustment was done my the Subaru dealer. It seems to be AOK, but perhaps a bit early to make any judgments - I only just drove it back to work, but no slipping or flaring anymore so far.

It cost me AUD$80 in labour, because they couldn't do it without removing the starter motor, and I certainly wasn't game to start tinkering with this myself. I did print out lots of the advice from here (including the related threads) and gave them a summary, including the procedure description. Yesterday, I was facing a $3300 repair bill today all seems to be well. Thanks again all.

The other problem I mentioned earlier was the rattle shake in the exhaust when cornering. This I'm told was a common problem early on for all SVX's. Apparently the rear of the transmission block had to be raised on many of the early SVX's? Anyway, that job had already been done on my car, but the shudder has been getting worse over the last 6 months or so.

The recommended fix is "anti shudder additive". And they suggested I visit the transmission specialist across the road again (mr. 30 years). So I went back there, told him the brake band adjustment was done and so far so good - he kinda cringed and said you better sell the car soon... I told him tactfully about this board and the expertise, and he finally came around saying he could be wrong. He showed me a 94 Liberty (Legacy) transmission out on the bench and pulled out some worn brake bands, good to see it all from that perspective.

Anyway, I went there because of the "anti shudder additive". I'm booked in tomorrow for a complete transmission oil change and additive. Is this all in line with what you guys would expect? He guarantees it will eliminate the shudder...

If this is correct, does it mean that I should have had this stuff in there all along? i.e. not enough viscosity in the transmission fluid.

Ciao,
Pete.

[oab_au]

Gid'ay Pete, oh what a relief new it would do it.

Are they saying that the shudering is from the AWD clutch that you just fixed, or what?

Harvey.