Check Engine codes, Power Steering Leaks

[rlutz]

Hi, looking for some advice.

1) My power steering rack has the boot torn apart on the right side and needs replacement. The dealer says the PS pump looks like it might be leaking too. I did the o-ring replacement, and the leaks aren't bad (smells a bit dripping on the exhaust, but doesn't drip much on the garage floor at all). Question: should I get the PS pump replaced along with the rack? (I'll buy aftermarket parts, but I'm kinda stuck with my dealer to install).

2) I'm showing check engine codes:

37 Oxygen Sensor #2, left side
24 Idle speed solenoid control valve
28 Knock sensor #2 (left side)
29 Crank angle sensor (no. 2)
56 EGR system

I cleared all the codes and got the same ones again almost immediately. After reading thru previous posts, I'm inclined to replace the oxygen sensors first, and see if that "fixes" all of the codes...thoughts anyone?

Also, the check engine light is still intermittant, it's been that way for 8 or 9 months, though the light is on now maybe 70-80% of the time. Its a 92, with 156,000 miles.

[Wikedjuggalo]

You will need to get a special tool for oxygen sensors its not hard just jack of up the car on one side and replace its easy I promise

[NikFu S.]

I removed my O2s without a special tool, but they are easier to remove with this tool. It's just a crescent wrench with a gap for the wire to pass through.

If you have time and plenty of patience, you might be able to put in the rack yourself. The dealer will charge a lot. Leaky racks are common. Leaky PS pumps are also common. I don't know if many have replaced the actual pump.

You definitely should look at everything. It's easy enough to pull the electrical plugs and just look at the sensors. They could be filthy.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

I removed my O2s without a special tool, but they are easier to remove with this tool. It's just a crescent wrench with a gap for the wire to pass through.
.

Since the electrical quick disconnect has to be disconnected to replace the 02 sensor anyway, why not just disconnect it and use your big old box end wrench and unscrew the puppy??
Keith

[NikFu S.]

I removed mine (with a box end wrench) because I needed to drop the exhaust, not replace the sensors so I left them connected electrically, and at 16 years I wouldn't exactly call it a "quick" disconnect.

[dromano]

Originally Posted by rlutz

Hi, looking for some advice.

1) My power steering rack has the boot torn apart on the right side and needs replacement. The dealer says the PS pump looks like it might be leaking too. I did the o-ring replacement, and the leaks aren't bad (smells a bit dripping on the exhaust, but doesn't drip much on the garage floor at all). Question: should I get the PS pump replaced along with the rack? (I'll buy aftermarket parts, but I'm kinda stuck with my dealer to install).

2) I'm showing check engine codes:

37 Oxygen Sensor #2, left side
24 Idle speed solenoid control valve
28 Knock sensor #2 (left side)
29 Crank angle sensor (no. 2)
56 EGR system

I cleared all the codes and got the same ones again almost immediately. After reading thru previous posts, I'm inclined to replace the oxygen sensors first, and see if that "fixes" all of the codes...thoughts anyone?

Also, the check engine light is still intermittant, it's been that way for 8 or 9 months, though the light is on now maybe 70-80% of the time. Its a 92, with 156,000 miles.

Check out www.jorgenauto.com they SVX racks for $249 plus $22.50 shipping both ways, $90 core charge. Anyone know of a better deal?

[rlutz]

Originally Posted by rlutz

Hi, looking for some advice.

1) My power steering rack has the boot torn apart on the right side and needs replacement. The dealer says the PS pump looks like it might be leaking too. I did the o-ring replacement, and the leaks aren't bad (smells a bit dripping on the exhaust, but doesn't drip much on the garage floor at all). Question: should I get the PS pump replaced along with the rack? (I'll buy aftermarket parts, but I'm kinda stuck with my dealer to install).

2) I'm showing check engine codes:

37 Oxygen Sensor #2, left side
24 Idle speed solenoid control valve
28 Knock sensor #2 (left side)
29 Crank angle sensor (no. 2)
56 EGR system

I cleared all the codes and got the same ones again almost immediately. After reading thru previous posts, I'm inclined to replace the oxygen sensors first, and see if that "fixes" all of the codes...thoughts anyone?

Also, the check engine light is still intermittant, it's been that way for 8 or 9 months, though the light is on now maybe 70-80% of the time. Its a 92, with 156,000 miles.

Well, I finally got around to changing the PS rack and O2 sensors, got rid of 3 of the codes. Now I'm left with:

28 Knock sensor #2 (left side)
56 EGR system

What would you guys try next? Should I buy a new knock sensor, or just try to get at it to clean it? What should I think about on the EGR system (I changed out the PCV valve about 4 years ago...)

[kwren]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

I removed mine (with a box end wrench) because I needed to drop the exhaust, not replace the sensors so I left them connected electrically, and at 16 years I wouldn't exactly call it a "quick" disconnect.

16 years to disconnect the connector is just a rumor. Takes much less time. More like a couple of minutes.

[log1call]

Hi,
you could check the Knock sensor... If you tell me how, I could send you a picture of the manual's page about it. If it's electricaly sound then you could take it off and clean it where it sits and under the bolt head and then refit it torquing it to fifteen to eighteen foot pounds.
Might pay to do that job and check it's electrical resistance at the same time.

If that doesn't fix it then I would have a listen to the motor to make sure there are not any knocks coming out... worn pistons for instance.

The EGR valve may need cleaning or there could be a hose off somewhere. alve may need cleaning or there could be a hose off somewhere.

[jcimos]

Thanks thats not a bad idea. I seem to be having a similar problem with my car. I'll try it out and let you know the out come.

[Freeman]

You replaced the rack? How much did you pay for another one? Also, did you get one rebuilt or something?

[NikFu S.]

Originally Posted by kwren

16 years to disconnect the connector is just a rumor. Takes much less time. More like a couple of minutes.

Ok, that was mildly amusing.

[rlutz]

Well,

I replaced the EGR valve, but still get the same codes (28, 56). I'm thinking I'll take off the battery cable, and really clear out the codes. What would yo try next on the EGR system? Temp Sensor? Control valve?

[kwren]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

Ok, that was mildly amusing.

I prefer "semi-jolly"

Keith

[rlutz]

Originally Posted by rlutz

Well, I finally got around to changing the PS rack and O2 sensors, got rid of 3 of the codes. Now I'm left with:

28 Knock sensor #2 (left side)
56 EGR system

What would you guys try next? Should I buy a new knock sensor, or just try to get at it to clean it? What should I think about on the EGR system (I changed out the PCV valve about 4 years ago...)

Well, I did the vacuum hose renewal (pulling off the intake manifold and all). Both my knock sensors were cracked, so it was good to replace them. One of the coolant lines to the throttle body was so bad, it tore as I removed the hose clamp. I broke my surge tank and EGR solenoid when trying to remove the petrified 3mm hoses. Expensive to replace. If I was to do it again, I'd try to cut off those hoses with an xacto knife. But I don't think it'd work, the hoses were harder than the plastic nipples they attach to. So the lesson is to renew your hoses before 17 years/160,000miles!

I replaced the whole EGR system (EGR valve, controller, hoses, EGR temp sensor). I'm pretty sure my "code 56" was from the temp sensor, as it was very gunked up when I removed it. I'd say replace (or at least inspect/clean) that one first, it's the easiest thing to access anyway.

Replaced the heater hoses, radiator hoses, fuel injection hoses and fuel filter while I was at it. Engine really purrs, and idles like a dream. Nice to drive without the CEL on...

Thanks to whoever posted the vacuum line renewal "how-to" document. The instructions, pictures, and parts list were invaluable. Took me ~15hrs to do it all (I work slow), but managed to put everything back in the right place the first time.