Aussie Subaru Master Tech, any questions?

[KennEls]

Nothing too exciting 6pack, just the normal round the back of Yarra Glen - St. Andrews area dirt. Trouble is just as you feel that you can maybe get going you have to curb your enthuisism and remember the old farmer might be coming the other way.

Lake Eildon sounds like a good trip, after the Christmas things are over I'll have to take a peep.

K

[-JJ-]

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30432

Does anyone know what $$$$ i am looking at to fix this??

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

I have a problem I need help with, when traveling at a constant speed above 100kph the rev change slightly ever now and then. They shift 100 to 150 rpm the dealer thinks it is transmission switching into and out of direct drive in top gear. Think I understand what he means but as yet he hasn't been able to tell me how to fix it. Changed TPS but didn't fix the problem, all suggestions, idea and shear genius greatly appricated.
Tony

'Could' be the lock-up clutch/converter, but I'm not sure what's going on with the Auto's over there, they seem to give alot of problems
Anyway, is it 'actually' revving higher/lower or is the tacho fluctuating slightly without the 'actual' rpm changing? Sometimes the OEM tacho is not the most accurate or responsive gauge......
If it doesn't surge or anything I wouldn't be too worried, just wait for it to spit, then put a manual in it!!
Sixpack

[Dessertrunner]

Sixpack,
The car changes rev I can feel it happen. I agree I have my five speed ready to go in so I won't worry to much about it. Just like to understand what is happening.
Tony

All your tyres the same rolling diameter??

[pylon500]

transmission switching into and out of direct drive in top gear

I've noticed the same thing with mine when in cruise control around 105 kph.
Only noticeable on smooth roads when you apply any sort of drag (slight incline, slow bend, wind gust?) to the car.
Can only just feel it, more visable on the tacho, rpm changes about 100~150 rpm.
I assumed this would be normal operation of the lock-up torque converter, but in hind sight, I figured the Tranny designer/programmers would have allowed a wider range between when the converter had locked up till it needed to unlock to remain in the torque band?
My car does this around 2100 rpm, so I guess it's only just ready to go into lock-up mode?
Have another odd problem...
At around 2700 rpm in top gear, I get a vibration which at first I thought was a wheel imbalance harmonic, but turns out to be the engine starting to miss on one cylinder (like my idle problem?)
It's really annoying when it happens 'cause it's right on 120 kph, so you either have to accelerate to 130, or drop back to the speed limit.
Still looking for the ISC.
Arthur.

[Dessertrunner]

Sixpack
All tires are the same purchased at the same time. I don't mind problems just need to know what is causeing them so I decided if I need to fix or not.
Tony

[McTaff]

For people who don't understand lock up torque converters. This is a cheat primer which is a bit of lies-to-children, but will give a basic understanding:

Your 'fluid coupling connection' torque converter will effectively "clamp together" and give direct drive similar to a normal clutch. So at asome circumstances (noticeably when you are cruising) the revs will not move about so freely; the wheels will be connected in a direct way to the engine revs. This gives a more efficient transfer of power to the wheels.


I usually see a drop of ~200 rpm when I'm cruising and the lock up takes effect, you may feel or hear a slight change in the engine sound when this happens.

When I 'power down' to accelerate, the engine will labour briefly before unlocking and the revs will then spin up and I will accelerate away. (You don't really want the lock-up engaged while you are accelerating hard).

Of course, while the TC is locked up, minor changes to throttle settings will then show virtually no movement to your revs, so this is the best way to check if the lock-up is engaged or not. It will act more like a manual car in fifth gear in this respect.

[McTaff]

Originally Posted by pylon500

At around 2700 rpm in top gear, I get a vibration which at first I thought was a wheel imbalance harmonic, but turns out to be the engine starting to miss on one cylinder (like my idle problem?)
It's really annoying when it happens 'cause it's right on 120 kph, so you either have to accelerate to 130

I useed to get what felt like a wheel wobble at 110... Comes and goes.

As an aside, on SVX #2 with non-standard rims (235's) it has a shudder between 95-110 odd. Balancing and alignment are out (4 wheel align done by bith Subie techs and independent ppl been done). Doesn't bother us too much, but some food for thought.

[Dr.Outback]

I've been slightly annoyed by my SVX's long high idle time. When cold, under 45 degrees, the car will stay on high idle, 1700-2000 rpm, till the engine heats up enough for the climate control to come on to blow hot air. Usually about 3-4mins. I can take my foot off the gas and let the car drive a little on it's own. Like cruise control. I replaced the auxillary air control valve because that closes after the engine warms up, and only provides extra air for cold starts. Is this a normal high idle period for this engine? I have no other SVX to compare it with. The idle is steady at idle when warm.

What you are saying doesn't sound 'too' abnormal, although the colder climate would require more fuel for it to burn as a cold mix technically yeilds a leaner mix. This is mind, when the engine is cold there is excess fuel added by way a longer injector pulsewidth, and the ISC adds the extra air accordingly by either a switching polarity or stepper design. When the engine has to supply 'soo' much fuel and 'soo' much air because it's 'soo' cold, I wouldn't say this was abnormal. Bear in mind that I have never worked on any car starting below around 5deg Celsius!!(Mmm, Toasty!!)
HTH
Sixpack

[McTaff]

Originally Posted by Dr.Outback

I've been slightly annoyed by my SVX's long high idle time. When cold, under 45 degrees, the car will stay on high idle, 1700-2000 rpm, till the engine heats up enough for the climate control to come on to blow hot air. Usually about 3-4mins. I can take my foot off the gas and let the car drive a little on it's own. Like cruise control. I replaced the auxillary air control valve because that closes after the engine warms up, and only provides extra air for cold starts. Is this a normal high idle period for this engine? I have no other SVX to compare it with. The idle is steady at idle when warm.

Sixpack is right, sounds normal. Mine does that when it is really cold.

One thing to try would be to give the engine a quick little rev (about +4~500rpm) after a couple of minutes. It should 'recalculate' the engine speed it needs, and adjust the revs down a bit. If it doesn't, then you'd want to get it checked out.

I also leave my car to warm up for a while (a good few minutes) before I start driving it too.

[Dr.Outback]

Thanks. I just never had any of my other auto Subies do this. I plugged it into the Select Monitor at work and didn't see anything out of sorts. It didn't show MAF voltage though. But the TPS, temp, and baro sensor were all ok.

[Dessertrunner]

Dr.Outback
There are 3 things that I have founds screws up idle, first is a air leak into the air intake after the air flow meter, if this was your cases the idle is screwed at what ever temp, second is the value under the throtel body which I guess is the one you replace. The finial one I think you have a problem with is the value right under the intake manafold, forgot what it is call but can check the manual if I get time, pretty sure it will be the problem. It has two hoses coming back to both sides of the throthel (wish I could spell). Best plan is to remove one of these and spray throthel body cleaner into it as it stickes. My guess is that when it plays up in causes the computer to have problems trying to sort it out. Good luck give it a try should take 5 minutes to do.
Tony

[svxthc]

SixPackSubaru- Every time I accelerate shortly after startup when the engine is still somewhat cold I hear a rough grinding noise coming from somewhere behind the car near the wheels. It goes away after I get going and the engine totally warms up. Any ideas? Also my brakes are a little weak. What would you recommend as the most cost effective fix? drilled+slotted, slotted, or drilled rotors? Stainless steel break lines?