I am ready to blow this car up. Won't start now.

[Huskymaniac]

In addition to the likely blown head gasket, I had a code stored in the TCU. I checked the resistor and it seemed ok. I put it back in and tried to retrieve the stored code. I couldn't move the gear selector. So I started the car in hopes of "loosening things up". I thought, maybe the ATF is low so I checked it. It seemed low so I turned off the engine and put some in. I went to start it again and it would not start. Not even a click. Not drawing much current at all from the battery. Maybe 10A when the key is turned to "start". WTF?!?!?!

[SoCoNoHa]

How old is the battery? If not old, or if it is, check the connections. My Impreza did that when the negative connection was hardly loose at all.

I hear ya on the head gaskets. That's my winter project, among other things.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by SoCoNoHa

How old is the battery? If not old, or if it is, check the connections. My Impreza did that when the negative connection was hardly loose at all.

I hear ya on the head gaskets. That's my winter project, among other things.

Battery is 4 years old. I checked and tightened the connections.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

In addition to the likely blown head gasket, I had a code stored in the TCU. I checked the resistor and it seemed ok. I put it back in and tried to retrieve the stored code. I couldn't move the gear selector. So I started the car in hopes of "loosening things up". I thought, maybe the ATF is low so I checked it. It seemed low so I turned off the engine and put some in. I went to start it again and it would not start. Not even a click. Not drawing much current at all from the battery. Maybe 10A when the key is turned to "start". WTF?!?!?!

`

Tony you say "I couldn't move the gear selector" This indicates something probably mechanical as well as electrical.

Check that the inhibitor switch which moves along with the selector, for mechanical operation. Is it jammed damaged or whatever?

Cheers, Trevor.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by Trevor

`

Tony you say "I couldn't move the gear selector" This indicates something probably mechanical as well as electrical.

Check that the inhibitor switch which moves along with the selector, for mechanical operation. Is it jammed damaged or whatever?

Cheers, Trevor.

Yes, I agree that the stiff gear selector is definitely a mechanical issue. I have read the cable can bind up and especially if the car sits. We have had a TON of rain this year so it wouldn't surprise me if that affected the cable.

What has me more baffled is why the car suddenly won't start. It started for me once today without an issue. I checked the ATF level and decided it was low so I turned the car off and added fluid. The car will not start now.

I tested the battery and it can provide 688 CCA. Like I said earlier, I put a clamp style amp meter on the ground wire and only about an additional 10A are drawn when I try to turn the ignition switch to "start". When in the "ON" position, everything on the dash lights up, I can hear the fuel pump and the car draws about 10A. It goes up to about 20A when I try to start the car. I never noticed this before but the climate control, clock and radio turn off when the ignition switch is turned to "start". I assume that is normal.

As an aside, when I have the ignition turned to "ON", I can hear a click when I press the button on the gear selector but I can't move the selector at all.

[Stevebsy]

You should not be able to move the selector without pressing the brake.

In fact you should hear a 'clunk' noise when in park and you press the brake on and off from the shift lock solenoid.

The inhibitor switch is probably preventing the starter from engaging. Try jiggling the shifter while turning the key and see if that does anything.

[Huskymaniac]

Originally Posted by Stevebsy

You should not be able to move the selector without pressing the brake.

In fact you should hear a 'clunk' noise when in park and you press the brake on and off from the shift lock solenoid.

The inhibitor switch is probably preventing the starter from engaging. Try jiggling the shifter while turning the key and see if that does anything.

Nope. I don't hear anything when pressing the brake. But when I press the button on the shifter, I hear a click.

I tried wiggling the shifter while turning the key but it never tried to start. However, it did click on and off in the shifter when wiggling.

[Trevor]

Tony, have you read and taken notice of post number seven ?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

Yes, I agree that the stiff gear selector is definitely a mechanical issue. I have read the cable can bind up and especially if the car sits. We have had a TON of rain this year so it wouldn't surprise me if that affected the cable.

What has me more baffled is why the car suddenly won't start. It started for me once today without an issue. I checked the ATF level and decided it was low so I turned the car off and added fluid. The car will not start now.

I tested the battery and it can provide 688 CCA. Like I said earlier, I put a clamp style amp meter on the ground wire and only about an additional 10A are drawn when I try to turn the ignition switch to "start". When in the "ON" position, everything on the dash lights up, I can hear the fuel pump and the car draws about 10A. It goes up to about 20A when I try to start the car. I never noticed this before but the climate control, clock and radio turn off when the ignition switch is turned to "start". I assume that is normal.

As an aside, when I have the ignition turned to "ON", I can hear a click when I press the button on the gear selector but I can't move the selector at all.

You should follow through suspecting the inhibiter switch.

Presuming that the battery is in all respects 100%. ----

You advise "It started for me once today without an issue."

You have an intermittent fault and must take this into account and search accordingly. Push and pull things as you check and test.

You advise that it goes up to only 20 amps when you apply voltage to the starter. This indicates that :-

* There is a voltage drop between the starter and the battery i.e. resistance in the wiring and connections. Or :-

The starter or the starter solenoid is faulty is not applying a normal load against the battery.

The inhibiter switch is disrupting full voltage to the solenoid.

You advise that "I never noticed this before but the climate control, clock and radio turn off when the ignition switch is turned to "start"."

This indicates that there is voltage drop affecting the overall electrical network.

* Check for voltage drop across the starter supply circuit by measuring for voltage between the battery positive terminal and the main starter terminal while cranking the car. If there is anything close to say a one volt drop you have identified that your problem involves the main battery supply circuit.

[Blacky]

Have you tried starting it in neutral?

I know the feeling of "I am ready to blow this car up." I was ready to burn mine a few weeks ago when I was battling the crank sensor issue on mine. I said to my wife " It's a shame to burn this f@#$%ing thing because they're so rare, but I'm sick of this bull@#$t."

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Trevor

You should follow through suspecting the inhibiter switch.

Presuming that the battery is in all respects 100%. ----

You advise "It started for me once today without an issue."

You have an intermittent fault and must take this into account and search accordingly. Push and pull things as you check and test.

You advise that it goes up to only 20 amps when you apply voltage to the starter. This indicates that :-

* There is a voltage drop between the starter and the battery i.e. resistance in the wiring and connections. Or :-

The starter or the starter solenoid is faulty is not applying a normal load against the battery.

The inhibiter switch is disrupting full voltage to the solenoid.

You advise that "I never noticed this before but the climate control, clock and radio turn off when the ignition switch is turned to "start"."

This indicates that there is voltage drop affecting the overall electrical network.

* Check for voltage drop across the starter supply circuit by measuring for voltage between the battery positive terminal and the main starter terminal while cranking the car. If there is anything close to say a one volt drop you have identified that your problem involves the main battery supply circuit.

Kia ora Tony,

It would appear that all along the car has been telling you that it is in reverse bur unfortunately the message has become confused. Probably the indicator light was affected along with the climate control etc.

It has been emphasised that you should adhere to a logical sequence of fault finding but unfortunately the weather has been solidly against you and it is significant that only now have you been able to properly start the sequence at square one. Nice and warm down here so wishing you the luck need.. LOL

[oab_au]

You should be able to see the lever on the side of the box from under the hood, look down the passengers side of the engine at the side of the box, if you have somebody else move the shift lever in the car, you should see if the gear lever moves too.

[Labmember0003]

I definitely don't have a spare cable but I may have a spare selector switch laying around.

As for the head bolts, I used the originals when I rebuilt the engine in my SVX and have had no issues at all.