alternator wires

[Chuckls]

Alternator is shot

[BoxerFanatic]

Ok.

I thought I was more ready for this than I ended up being.

First, I thought auto-parts stores would have more selection of power-grade cabling than they do.

Q: Is 4 AWG wire acceptable, or too small for the alternator wiring mod? 2 AWG wire seems like overkill but maybe i am wrong.

I think I figured out why Subaru used two smaller wires. I have yet to see a ring terminal that is small enough to fit on the Alternator post riser, but big enough on the wire side to crimp anywhere near a 2 or 4 gauge wire.

Q: How on earth to you connect said large gauge replacement wire to the alternator post appropriately?

Stock is two smaller wires, with ring terminals flat-sides inward, both connected to the post. Should I try to split the strands into two groups, and crimp two rings onto a single larger cable? I am not sure that is even pragmatically possible or advisable, but I am open to suggestions from people who have done it.


Q: for Svxcess, or others who have mounted the Mega-Fuse holder, where and more importantly how, did you fasten it down, and did you insulate the bottom, so that the bolt heads that are recessed, but exposed on the bottom side. I wouldn't want them to arc to anything else. I thought about filling the underside segments with epoxy as an electrical insulator.

I was thinking of double-face tape, and sticking it to the side of the main fuse box, below the cover's overlap, on the side toward the battery and front end of the car. It doesn't seem like there is much space for nylon bolts, or push fasteners on the inside of the fuse box, to drill through, and fasten the Mega-Fuse holder to the side with mechanical fasteners.

I am open to hear what others have done to mount the fuse holder.

Q: Does anybody know the gauge of the wires from the starter to the battery? It looks like the positive lead is much thicker, with an overly long metal tab with a hole as a ring terminal at the end. Possibly 4 or maybe even 2 gauge, but the negative seems to be about 6 gauge, with a much smaller 8 or 10 gauge wire to the body ground point, next to the horn bracket, but not actually on it, with a pretty small bolt, comparatively.

I am debating whether the positive battery terminal is worth keeping, or if i should change it out for a bigger/better one.

The MegaFuse holder doesn't look big enough to accommodate two 4 gauge wires on the battery side of the fuse, so I think the two wires, one from batt to starter (existing), one from batt to Mega Fuse->Alternator (new wire) probably will both have to connect to the battery terminal directly.

I think the negative side might have to work that way, also, to ground both the starter, and another ground closer to the alternator/AC pump, as well as to the chassis, unless I do some sort of ground-side distribution block.

I see now why Svxcess ordered his wiring online. I overestimated the availability of the wiring supplies locally, and under-estimated the price tag of all of these individual little wire-building supplies, each with a retail markup.

It is a good thing I ordered that large-gauge impact crimper along with the MegaFuse and holder, to get over the price point for free shipping from Amazon. I have a feeling it is going to come in very handy.

[Gamesy]

I had to order the fuse from my local NAPA store

after reading your message i just double checked/compared with some wire i bought

Stock starter and battery ground are 4AWG wires.

So my setup is comprises of 4awg wire to starter, 4 awg wire from new alternator to + batt, 4 awg wire bodyground, 4 awg wire engine ground.

as for the existing white cables coming off the alternator, i still need to find out whether they are 8 or 10g, i'm thinking they are 8 but i'm gonna double check b4 buying

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

Ok.

I thought I was more ready for this than I ended up being.

First, I thought auto-parts stores would have more selection of power-grade cabling than they do.

Q: Is 4 AWG wire acceptable, or too small for the alternator wiring mod? 2 AWG wire seems like overkill but maybe i am wrong.

I think I figured out why Subaru used two smaller wires. I have yet to see a ring terminal that is small enough to fit on the Alternator post riser, but big enough on the wire side to crimp anywhere near a 2 or 4 gauge wire.

Q: How on earth to you connect said large gauge replacement wire to the alternator post appropriately?

Stock is two smaller wires, with ring terminals flat-sides inward, both connected to the post. Should I try to split the strands into two groups, and crimp two rings onto a single larger cable? I am not sure that is even pragmatically possible or advisable, but I am open to suggestions from people who have done it.


Q: for Svxcess, or others who have mounted the Mega-Fuse holder, where and more importantly how, did you fasten it down, and did you insulate the bottom, so that the bolt heads that are recessed, but exposed on the bottom side. I wouldn't want them to arc to anything else. I thought about filling the underside segments with epoxy as an electrical insulator.

I was thinking of double-face tape, and sticking it to the side of the main fuse box, below the cover's overlap, on the side toward the battery and front end of the car. It doesn't seem like there is much space for nylon bolts, or push fasteners on the inside of the fuse box, to drill through, and fasten the Mega-Fuse holder to the side with mechanical fasteners.

I am open to hear what others have done to mount the fuse holder.

Q: Does anybody know the gauge of the wires from the starter to the battery? It looks like the positive lead is much thicker, with an overly long metal tab with a hole as a ring terminal at the end. Possibly 4 or maybe even 2 gauge, but the negative seems to be about 6 gauge, with a much smaller 8 or 10 gauge wire to the body ground point, next to the horn bracket, but not actually on it, with a pretty small bolt, comparatively.

I am debating whether the positive battery terminal is worth keeping, or if i should change it out for a bigger/better one.

The MegaFuse holder doesn't look big enough to accommodate two 4 gauge wires on the battery side of the fuse, so I think the two wires, one from batt to starter (existing), one from batt to Mega Fuse->Alternator (new wire) probably will both have to connect to the battery terminal directly.

I think the negative side might have to work that way, also, to ground both the starter, and another ground closer to the alternator/AC pump, as well as to the chassis, unless I do some sort of ground-side distribution block.

I see now why Svxcess ordered his wiring online. I overestimated the availability of the wiring supplies locally, and under-estimated the price tag of all of these individual little wire-building supplies, each with a retail markup.

It is a good thing I ordered that large-gauge impact crimper along with the MegaFuse and holder, to get over the price point for free shipping from Amazon. I have a feeling it is going to come in very handy.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Gamesy

I had to order the fuse from my local NAPA store

After reading your message i just double checked/compared with some wire i bought

Stock starter and battery ground are 4AWG wires.

So my setup is comprises of 4awg wire to starter, 4 awg wire from new alternator to + batt, 4 awg wire body/ground, 4 awg wire engine ground.

All of these wires are correct. Why are you replacing the 4 gauge wire to the starter? Do you have starting problems? This mod is designed to have the electrical system operate efficiently AFTER the car is running. The starter circuit is not affected and unless you have another problem, you do not need to change the wire to the starter. Just check the connection.

Originally Posted by Gamesy

As for the existing white cables coming off the alternator, i still need to find out whether they are 8 or 10g I'm thinking they are 8 but i'm gonna double check b4 buying

Why are you replacing the two existing white wires? Just trim them back as far as you can before they splice into a larger bundle and twist them together and insulate. Not attached to anything else but each other,

Go back and re-read the wiring configuration. They are no longer necessary to be connected to the alternator.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...8&d=1270948752

[svxcess]

BoxerFanatic.

You have PM.

[BoxerFanatic]

Thanks for the PM, I sent a reply. Sorry, it is pretty lengthy.

I think I was over-thinking the project a little bit, and I keep coming back to your plan. It is a well developed plan, and it makes even more sense when elbow-deep in the engine bay, than just reading it here on the screen.

The two things not immediately clear, are how to connect a 4 AWG wire to the alternator's small terminal... most 4 AWG terminals are bigger than that, and as you mentioned, won't fully seat inside the collar around the terminal.

And how you chose to fix your fuse holder to the side of the main fuse box enclosure. That position is as ideal as it gets in that neighborhood... but how it stays there, in your case, isn't as abundantly clear.


And thanks, Gamesy, for the info on the stock wires. I thought the starter leads looked different sizes, but I am glad to know that the actual conductors are the same gauge, and to know that they are both 4 AWG. I am only considering re-terminating the stock wires at their battery ends, because they are looking a little worse for wear and a bit frayed there, but they do work as is. Not fixing what isn't broken is something I am trying to keep in mind.

[Gamesy]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Why are you replacing the two existing white wires? Just trim them back as far as you can before they splice into a larger bundle and twist them together and insulate. Not attached to anything else but each other,

Go back and re-read the wiring configuration. They are no longer necessary to be connected to the alternator.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...8&d=1270948752

I'm not replacing the starter wire, i was just outlining for boxer what the system is gonna look like i'm only replacing the engine ground ( corroded) body ground(upgrade) and alternator post(upgrade)

as for the existing cables from the alternator, they are completely corroded/burnt right to the fusebox so i need to redo the wiring. it splits off and connects to the ABS fuse, FAN LH and RH fuse and weirdly enough it connects to the other alternator wire thats connected to the plug.

as for mounting i still dont know yet, i'll be getting it tuesday.
when i'm there i'm gonna see if they have a 4awg to small ring terminal if not, cut a section off it make it smaller and resolder.

another option is to sandwitch it between 2 washers on the post

[svxcess]

RING TERMINAL:

You will have to file down the outside of the 4 gauge ring terminal that attaches to the alternator so that it is smaller in diameter and fits completely down inside the black plastic collar on the power terminal and tightens securely to the post and bottom. Don't let it sit on top of the collar. It should fit in there loosely to allow for expansion when hot.

Use a file or a Dremel with a grinding wheel

A lock washer and nut will work. Just tighten very securely, not overtighten. Excessive Force will break the alternator charging post. Use a small 1/4" drive socket to avoid this.

The cable portion of the ring terminal will sit into the slot in the collar. This will prevent the cable from rotating when tightening


The MEGAFUSE BRACKET

I should have done a writeup with photos of what I did to address this. Basically it is attached to an aluminum plate that is folded over and just hangs on the edge of the fuse box. See photo 3.


Here are some photos. Look closely and you will notice in the photos that the fuse holder of mounted to some sort of metal plate (using pop-rivets)















I cut a thin piece of aluminum plate as wide as the widest part of the fuse holder. I then took off the fuse box cover and measured the distance from the top of may battery to the top edge of the fuse box.

Looking inside the fusebox there is a thin gap at the front of the box. I measured how deep this gap was. I transferred these measurements to the aluminum plate. The plate is bent over 180° so that it just slides over the edge of the fusebox and hangs snugly. Snap the fuse box cover back on and make a line on the plate where the bottom of the cover is..

Remove the plate and mark the position of the fuse holder (with the cover on) Make sure it does nor rise above the line you marked on the bracket. Mark the 2 holes for the mounting points and drill.

I used pop-rivets to mount the holder to the bracket. I inserted the rivets from the REAR of the bracket (so that the head was flush and did not interfere with anything.

Do the test-fitting of the bracket to make sure everything is fine. Inside the gap in the front of the fusebox there is a thin vertical rib of plastic that will keep the bracket from sliding down completely. Just cut a small notch on the bracket to slide over this. This will also act as a key and keep the bracket from sliding side-to-side when the fuse box cover is attached.


This is a secure fit. The fusebox cover clips on and prevents the bracket from moving. The bottom of my fuse holder just rests on the top of my Optima battery.


This is the general instructions for the procedure. Hope it helps. I may go out and take more detailed photos, but don't think it is necessary

[BoxerFanatic]

Thanks, that makes it much more clear on the mounting.

I guess I may have to find someplace to source some aluminum, and a way to bend it.

Good to know about filing down the alternator terminal. I was a bit worried about the inside diameter of the ring being too big to properly cinch down, but it seems like you have it buttoned up. I trust you that it works.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by BoxerFanatic

Thanks, that makes it much more clear on the mounting.

I guess I may have to find someplace to source some aluminum, and a way to bend it.

You can get thin aluminum stock, 6" x 12" or so from Ace Hardware or another hardware store. it is very flexible and you could almost bend it by hand, but you wouldn't get a tight bend. Mark the line where you want to bend and put it in a vise and tap with a hammer along the line to get almost a 90 degree bend, than squeeze it the rest of the way by hand or with a small block of wood and a hammer.

i used 6" sheet metal pliers to do the job.

Good to know about filing down the alternator terminal. I was a bit worried about the OUTSIDE diameter of the ring being too big to properly cinch down, but it seems like you have it buttoned up. I trust you that it works.

Trust me, it works.

Even if you were just adding a power wire to the alternator (leaving the 2 white wires attached) you would need to file down the terminal so that there was a solid connection between all of the wires.

I have seen instances where the new power power wire was used with stock 4 gauge terminals and would not fit inside the collar. Just tightened down on top of the collar. this causes arcing and corrosion.


.

[svxcess]

I went out and measured my cables this morning. Here are the lengths I used and are the ones shown in the photos and routed the same way.

1: Alternator to mega-fuse: 23 inches.
2: mega-fuse to positive battery: 8 inches.
3: Engine bolt to negative battery: 16 inches. (I used the A/C compressor mounting bolt.

4: Chassis ground to negative battery: 11 inches. (I used the horn bracket bolt)

I still prefer the Knukonceptz Fleks Kable. 4 gauge in outside diameter, but electrically comparable to a three gauge. Plus it is the most flexible cable I have ever found.



That's how I can get such a tight radius turn on the cable from the battery to the MegaFuse. You need ony 5 feet of wire at 1.55 per foot for everything. Initially I ordered 6 feet just in case.

Available in matte transluscent smoke (what I used), jet black, red or blue.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable
.

[Gamesy]

i'm using Welding wire, strong flexible and all copper

SVXcess, can you double check the gauge of the old alternator cables thats spliced together? i'm thinking its an 8gauge but i'm starting to double guess myself

thanks

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by Gamesy

i'm using Welding wire, strong flexible and all copper

svxcess, can you double check the gauge of the old alternator cables thats spliced together? i'm thinking its an 8 gauge but i'm starting to double-guess myself.

thanks

I have no idea as my old cables are long gone. I believe they were either 8 or 10 gauge. 8 gauge would offer less resistance, but in such a short run, it would probably be minor. Maybe someone here can confirm.

Hard to believe that the original alternator charging wire was that small.


.

[Gamesy]

Originally Posted by svxcess

I have no idea as my old cables are long gone. I believe they were either 8 or 10 gauge. 8 gauge would offer less resistance, but in such a short run, it would probably be minor. Maybe someone here can confirm.

Hard to believe that the original alternator charging wire was that small.


.

I know 95a charge off that tiny cable

[svxcess]

In the real world, the alternator probably puts out, depending on how many circuits were engaged, from around 40A to 60A maximum.

Read my testing procedure and test results HERE

I believe this is fairly accurate.

.