Alternator keeps failing

Stillhoff · #1 06-15-2011, 10:28 AM

My altinator keeps failing.

First time I thought it was just because it was time.

I had it rebuild at an auto electrician (with a good reputation)
After 150 km it failed again.
The auto electrician rebuilded it, with out discussion.

Now it has failed again after only 200km

I have replaced the +wire.

Could there be something in the car that breaks it?

kwren · #2 06-15-2011, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stillhoff

My altinator keeps failing.

First time I thought it was just because it was time.

I had it rebuild at an auto electrician (with a good reputation)
After 150 km it failed again.
The auto electrician rebuilded it, with out discussion.

Now it has failed again after only 200km

I have replaced the +wire.

Could there be something in the car that breaks it?

Nope...

Keith

92snowmachine · #3 06-15-2011, 03:10 PM

yes. your battery can break it. if the battery is crappy enough to get really discharged every time you start the car then it will burn up the alternator. alternators are good at maintaining a battery charge but not good at charging them up when really far down.

benebob · #4 06-15-2011, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92snowmachine

yes. your battery can break it. if the battery is crappy enough to get really discharged every time you start the car then it will burn up the alternator. alternators are good at maintaining a battery charge but not good at charging them up when really far down.

Ditto, as will a loss in the system. Check you wiring and grounds specifically the wires that get cooked going to the alt. (even though you said you replaced a wire did you replace them all, are they the proper gauge, how about the connector- my XT6 connector was so bad that it had broken apart inside the connector and would sometimes make connection between the two wires?) though I'd suspect a battery has a bad cell which can give ya enough power to run and start but works that alt quite hard. I always take my car in to my local shop before replacing the alt. just to be sure and do a proper load test on the system withh the right equipment. Other thing which can kill an alt is heat though in that short of fail rate you would likely be melting your engine. Good luck!

If it is the connector, there is a company that sells them, Northwest electrical supply if I remember right but you need to have a minimum $20 order or something like that. I bought 10 of 'em and easily got rid of the extras.

XT6Wagon · #5 06-15-2011, 04:51 PM

If its like my car, wouldn't hurt to clean the alternator housing in the spots where it bolts onto the engine and all the mounts. I doubt its your main issue, but any weakness in the grounding here is very quick and easy to fix.

Given the age of the cars, every single little tiny bit of resistance in the electrical system can build into a overall large problem with strange symptoms.

svxcess · #6 06-15-2011, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benebob

If it is the connector, there is a company that sells them, Northwest electrical supply if I remember right but you need to have a minimum $20 order or something like that. I bought 10 of 'em and easily got rid of the extras.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hocrest

I think John "svxcess" found a source for these? If he doesn't reply here send him a PM.

It used to be Northwest Regulator Supply. They only deal with manufacturers now.

But you can buy them directly from their distributor Electric Motor Service in Logan, WV. Their phone number is 800- 697-6070

The part number is 050-012252 and they go for $9.53 each plus shipping with no minimum. I already ordered two more.

They come with about 3-4" of wire attached; no re-pinning is necessary.

.

Stillhoff · #7 06-16-2011, 11:42 AM

The batteri has 12.4V now. It is a good qualit and only one year old.

Before the altinater failed it gave 60 amp right after start-up.
After 30 minutes driving it gave 25 amp.
The altinator was varm.

Is this a normal range? I find it a bit high.

I guess:
Light: ~80W = 6A
Fuel pump: ~50W=4A
ECU's and sparks: 100W = 8A
Fan Hvac: 50W = 4A

So around 20A is not that strangs is it?
Has any one meassured it?

The two white wires has 0 ohm and stabile.

92snowmachine · #8 06-16-2011, 12:31 PM

your battery may show 12.4 volts but that isn't really comparable to the amperage it has in it. you need to have the battery load tested to see if it can put out half of the cold cranking amps for at least 15 seconds (preferably 30 if it's that new) without the voltage dropping below 9.6. from the amount of amps that it takes just after starting i would say your battery likely has the voltage but not the amperage. you may also want to check the amp draw on your starter since you must have an amp clamp. if the starter is drawing way too many amps then it can drain out your battery but is likely just a symptom of a more serious problem.

dannmarr · #9 06-19-2011, 09:48 AM

I went through batteries and alternators until I found the problem, The connectors.

Stillhoff · #10 06-20-2011, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannmarr

I went through batteries and alternators until I found the problem, The connectors.

What connectors?
On the battery or the alternator?

The car is in the shop now :-(

dannmarr · #11 06-21-2011, 09:26 PM

It was the connector to the alternator.

Stillhoff · #12 06-23-2011, 04:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannmarr

It was the connector to the alternator.

Ok- I replaced that wire to start with. It's all new.

The car is still in the shop :-(

benebob · #13 06-25-2011, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stillhoff

Ok- I replaced that wire to start with. It's all new.

The car is still in the shop :-(

But did you replace the connector as well?

Stillhoff · #14 07-02-2011, 05:45 AM

Got the car back from the shop. (now we are on: usd 630,- (3500 dk.-)

They could not find any faults on the car. Except for the generator not working.
They have replaced the rotor this time..I thing they are not so good

The x-mas tree lights flashed one second yesterday...that is how it started last time.

I have put new batteri in. Just in case.
New connection from generator to battery
New extra wire from battery to ground.

I have ordred a new generator. (the new one is not broken...yet)

From the generator to the battery a read 65Amp right after start-up.
Few minutes later i read 30-50Amp (up and down). Enginem, light, radio and HVAC on

Can someone confirm that these values are inside a normal limit.

I am afred that some thing is using too much power and is overloading the generator so it gets too hot.

kwren · #15 07-02-2011, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stillhoff

I am afred that some thing is using too much power and is overloading the generator so it gets too hot.

If anything is "using too much power" I would expect that there would be a fuse blown in that particular circuit... Any thing big would even take out the fusible link.

More often than not, people in the repair business have a problem making things they repair work.

Sounds like this might be the case with your people. You would be wise to simply get a heavy duty alternator replacement from the Dallas people that SVXcess recommended. You could have paid the shipping and saved a bundle already.

Best luck on getting it worked out!

Keith