SVX Engine cooling "Again & Again" - Page 81

Cam · #**1201** 09-15-2010, 07:37 PM

Try to follow me on this one. It may be a cheaper alternative to making a custom Y-pipe for a coolant crossover.

Take your OEM coolant pipe, and tap a hole on either side toward the front of the block. Insert brass threaded fittings, and use a flex hose between the two fittings. The point would be to bypass the portion on the rear side of the block that connects the two sides. Coolant will still flow throughout the entire assembly, and equalize pressure as well. My thought here is this would help coolant travel from the driver side head to the radiator.

Rebuttals?

Dessertrunner · #**1202** 09-15-2010, 10:29 PM

Cam the difference in the left and right head coolant flow is nine tenth's of sweet f all. So if that the purpose of what you are trying to do the gain won't improve cooling. You still need to address the vacum issue on the pump or you won't have coolant to transfer.
Tony

cdigerlando · #**1203** 09-16-2010, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Cam the difference in the left and right head coolant flow is nine tenth's of sweet f all. So if that the purpose of what you are trying to do the gain won't improve cooling. You still need to address the vacum issue on the pump or you won't have coolant to transfer.
Tony

You mentioned you think your issue is resolved. When will you have a chance to track the car again to verify?

Cam · #**1204** 09-16-2010, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Cam the difference in the left and right head coolant flow is nine tenth's of sweet f all. So if that the purpose of what you are trying to do the gain won't improve cooling. You still need to address the vacum issue on the pump or you won't have coolant to transfer.
Tony

It was simply an idea to replace fabricating a y-pipe. The other modifications would still be needed.

Dessertrunner · #**1205** 09-16-2010, 01:34 PM

Chuck Matt has raced his twice and it runs cool. In his case the only change he made was the bottom pipe out of the radiator and the thermo cover. I understand he will race again in November. In my case it will be next year due to the silly season at work,
Cam I persoanly would not change the top pipe as I haven't seen any reason for it on my test bench, but that just my preferance.
Tony

Boxersix · #**1206** 09-22-2010, 10:15 PM

Putting the theory to test here stateside myself(50mm inlet, inline upper thermo)

Some pics of the setup here as I'm throwing the car back together now. Been off the road for over a month now and I'm ancy to drive it again.

dynomatt · #**1207** 09-22-2010, 11:42 PM

Interesting approach! I'll be watching your tests.

Dessertrunner · #**1208** 09-23-2010, 04:17 AM

Looking good Adam I really like the way you got the feed system to the pump.
Tony

Boxersix · #**1209** 09-23-2010, 04:47 PM

that's the drop-in fitment sti radiator I had in there, just crudely modified to suit this test for now. I have a full griffin core that, if this works like it should, I'll be making my own core tanks without all the crap on them that had to be blocked off due to the new routing.

Should be running and up on the dyno ~ sat or so.

Dessertrunner · #**1210** 09-24-2010, 02:39 AM

Adam depending on the core size at full revs you may get some coolant out the overflow due to top tank pressure. When you go to final design its best with side tanks.

Boxersix · #**1211** 09-24-2010, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

Adam depending on the core size at full revs you may get some coolant out the overflow due to top tank pressure. When you go to final design its best with side tanks.

Never had an issue with this rad before. My overflow is not at the radiator. That cap there is just to let air out of the system while filling to speed up the process. Main pressure cap is up off the surge tank.

Boxersix · #**1212** 10-05-2010, 07:01 PM

This one's for you Team Ill.(lolz)

Update for you folks.

Car has been running just fine, and by fine I mean no more than 186F on the dyno running 3rd gear at 5500rpm for over two minutes flat with nothing more than dyno blower fan airflow over the rad.

Winnar winnar chikan dinnar!

Johnybeas · #**1213** 10-05-2010, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dessertrunner

...
"You speak as if your issue is resolved with the increased suction opening. Is it? "

I don't mean to sound like a smart ass but as far as I am concerned the problem is solved. You need to do the following:-

High Flow radiator.
50mm suction inlet to pump and radiator outlet.
A side tank radiator with the cap on the suction side.
The thermstate must be moved to the top of the radiator (Tom's idea).

I can assure you that if this is done any cooling issue are solved and the SVX will have no problem keeping cool.

Have a gret day.
Tony

Ok so as I see it this is your end all be all of fixing the perpetual chain effect caused by the modifications, right? Say for example though, you add in forced induction into the equation and more horsepower and torque is being put out from the engine. Will these modifications withstand the increase of power, or are we back on square one with the cooling issues?

definitely a lot of good knowledge here, I don't know much about fluid dynamics but have learned a smidge from this thread.

Dessertrunner · #**1214** 10-07-2010, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxersix

This one's for you Team Ill.(lolz)

Update for you folks.

Car has been running just fine, and by fine I mean no more than 186F on the dyno running 3rd gear at 5500rpm for over two minutes flat with nothing more than dyno blower fan airflow over the rad.

Winnar winnar chikan dinnar!

Great news Adam I think we have got it beat.

As regards increase power or forced injection the answer is Yes. I will quilify that by saying your radiator needs to be big enough and air flow needs to be high enough to transfer the heat.
The abilty of the block to transfer heat to the coolant is a "fixed surface area" so if you need to get more heat out of the engine the coolant needs to return from the radiator as cool as possiable.
With out try to baffle you with Bull____T the rule is,
"Greater the difference between the coolant and the block for a given flow the greater the transfer of heat from the block in a give time"

Hope that helps.
Tony

Boxersix · #**1215** 10-07-2010, 01:26 PM

I have a 170F thermo in it. Normal temp while driving fully warmed is 168-175 pending vehicles speed. On the dyno it creeped to 186F after a minute of constant running, then held steady until I took my foot off the throttle some odd 60-80 seconds later

If people want I can fab a few of these 50mm pump inlets for those looking to do this. Will be a straight lip, you'll just have to modify your radiator to suit and use an appropriate 2" ID hose.