ECUtune Camshafts

[longassname]

That cleans me out of both valves and valve springs. I got both manufacturers to make and hold extras for me so I'm going to call and order some more now. Anybody who's looking to get these in the immediate future please let me know before I put in my order.

[cdigerlando]

Originally Posted by longassname

The factory valves are:
intake: 90.00mm
exhaust: 90.85mm

Just re-use your old outside springs. The only thing you should need are new valve stem seals which are included in the overhaul gasket and seal kit.

Thanks Mike. Is there anything out of the ordinary required to install these valves and springs? Is it simply the stock installation procedure? It looked like the bucket guides have plenty of room to spare for the added 2 mm spring height.

On another note and to update my build, I dropped off my heads and block for cleaning, valve removal, and testing. I'm using a local shop called bumper to bumper. I was recommended to them from a Nasioc member. I was dealing with Chris Fenhoff. He seemed to really know his stuff. He thinks that everything should clean up fine. I still have not had any response from ARP regarding head bolts, or from Mr. Gasket regarding copper gaskets. I'm going to keep bugging ARP. Mike, if you are still interested in supplying these bolts after we work out the sizing, I'll mention that to ARP. Since our aftermarket is so small it might be best if these kits were offered on your site.

My critical path is getting ARP to either pass or commit on main bolts. I raised the issue that Mike brought up regarding the need for sealing these bolts/studs. Once this is decided, I can semi close the deck, do the bores and mill the block (.001) to even everything up. Then I can get cracking on the bottom end assembly.

As far as the head gaskets go, I'm going to go with the cometic gaskets. I just e-mailed an e-bay company offering these and will purchase them soon, if they are on the level. I also need to purchase the engine seal overhaul kit. Anyone need some head gaskets?

[longassname]

there is nothing out of the ordinary about installing the valves or springs. Everything is drop in.

[longassname]

Shipping was about $45.

Originally Posted by longassname

Ok, looks like a done deal. We have a supplier for custom forged valves. That's right complete custom forgings not cut WRX valves.

The intake valves are stainless. The exhaust valves are inconel.

Now that is locked down we can take the cam set orders.
Cams, inner valve springs, and valves: $1490

I don't know shipping yet. They are heavy and I will only ship them insurred so when we get them and it's time to ship them out I will find out actual shipping and send out invoices for the shipping.

[longassname]

Ok everybody, we hit our first and hopefully last snag.

I need everyone to send their intake camshafts back to me. It looks like about half of the cam journals on the intake cams are some ten-thousandths larger than the base circle of the lobes. This will make the lifters ride the cam journals instead of the cam lobes when the valves are fully closed and we don't want that. We just went through the oil clearances on the journals and there is enough room to grind the journals to get our clearance.

Send them to the Miami address:

Michael Emery
8240 SW 184 Lane
Miami, FL 33157

[cdigerlando]

Originally Posted by longassname

Ok everybody, we hit our first and hopefully last snag.

I need everyone to send their intake camshafts back to me. It looks like about half of the cam journals on the intake cams are a few ten-thousandths smaller than the base circle of the lobes. This will make the lifters ride the cam journals instead of the cam lobes when the valves are fully closed and we don't want that. We just went through the oil clearances on the journals and there is enough room to grind the journals to get our clearance.

Send them to the Miami address:

Michael Emery
8240 SW 184 Lane
Miami, FL 33157

Is this a consistent problem or is there something we could check ourselves with a micrometer to determine if we need them worked on? I don't see this as a big snag. We will be lucky if this is the only one!

[longassname]

The problem is out in the tenths of thousands of an inch. I'd rather just get them all back and have them ground so we have some clearance.


edit: everyone please ship asap so we can get them back to the cam grinder and back asap for those who are in the assembly process already.

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Is this a consistent problem or is there something we could check ourselves with a micrometer to determine if we need them worked on? I don't see this as a big snag. We will be lucky if this is the only one!

[cdigerlando]

Originally Posted by longassname

The problem is out in the tenths of thousands of an inch. I'd rather just get them all back and have them ground so we have some clearance.


edit: everyone please ship asap so we can get them back to the cam grinder and back asap for those who are in the assembly process already.

Shipping to you today. Should get to Miami from Orlando in 1 or two days? Would it be a good idea for us to plastigage the cam journals prior to completing the install to double check the oil clearances?

[longassname]

Oil clearances on cam journals aren't nearly as critical as on crank journals but it never hurts to check them. We'll end up all the way on the loose side of the range but that should actually be better for us--the increased oiling of the lifters will make the cam lobes last longer. The exhaust cams get oiled better than the intake cams.

Originally Posted by cdigerlando

Shipping to you today. Should get to Miami from Orlando in 1 or two days? Would it be a good idea for us to plastigage the cam journals prior to completing the install to double check the oil clearances?

[cdigerlando]

Originally Posted by longassname

Oil clearances on cam journals aren't nearly as critical as on crank journals but it never hurts to check them. We'll end up all the way on the loose side of the range but that should actually be better for us--the increased oiling of the lifters will make the cam lobes last longer. The exhaust cams get oiled better than the intake cams.

Yes the exhaust cams will see more pressure being lower in the engine. Have you installed or do you plan to install an oil pressure guage? I would like to prior to breaking in this motor.

[cdigerlando]

Originally Posted by longassname

Oil clearances on cam journals aren't nearly as critical as on crank journals but it never hurts to check them. We'll end up all the way on the loose side of the range but that should actually be better for us--the increased oiling of the lifters will make the cam lobes last longer. The exhaust cams get oiled better than the intake cams.

Yes the exhaust cams will see more pressure being lower in the engine. Have you installed or do you plan to install an oil pressure guage? I would like to prior to breaking in this motor.

[longassname]

chucky two times,

no I haven't
no I haven't

haven't really thought about it
haven't really thought about it

[cdigerlando]

I just spoke with the guy who is machining my block, and discussed the issue related to the base circle and the journal diameter. He did not think that this is going to be an issue. He said that the base circle rarely comes in contact with the bucket if at all. I think your idea to regrind another cam is safer, but do you really think that under these circumstances a coating or plating will be that affected by bucket friction? Let me know what you think.

I've just had some personal issues come up that will require me to finish this build quicker so I'm hoping the cams will be ready soon.

Thanks

Chuck D.

[TomsSVX]

Chuck.. the cams NEED to be redone. Otherwise the lifter will ride and wear on the cams. This wearing doen ridges on the lifter and thuse will deform the cam lobes themselves. I just sent out two more sets of intake cams to Mike's machine shop. Now NONE of the good motors I have still have any cams in them at all. SO im up the creek on getting my EG33 wagon project off the ground. One set is high priority to someone else who has gone through a fair share of cams... The other is going to me. I need to have my build done in time and broken in for the Subaru Challenge at the end of september... I am still questioning this being feasable but we will see. I am not sure of what Mike has received yet along the lines of core cams but you can always go searching for them yourself to speed the process.

Tom

[cdigerlando]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Chuck.. the cams NEED to be redone. Otherwise the lifter will ride and wear on the cams. This wearing doen ridges on the lifter and thuse will deform the cam lobes themselves.

I understand the issue. I'm just telling you what my machine shop guy's opinion was. It would be nice if we had a solution that does not require buying a new set of cams and regrinding them. Coatings or plating might work. I would be willing to guinnie pig for something like this.