Subframe inquiry

DJCookie · #1 08-11-2010, 07:51 PM

I've been a member of the forum for quite some time and even posted my 92 Pearlie for sale once. But as any svx owner knows, I just couldn't part with her. Now I am at a cross-roads and need some advice from fellow SVXers.

I had a little 'self-inflicted' fender-bender over a year ago, slid into a curb and did some major alignment damage to the front passenger side. Unfortunately due to my budget, repair costs were not in the near future. I have finally been able to afford to start fixing her up. Got a great shop to look after my problems, but after replacing the ENTIRE passenger front assembly, including the control arm, etc etc...the mechanic started to do the alignment and noticed a crack or bend in my front subframe.

I took her for a quick spin tonight to see how she was running, and she still pulls a tad to the right and I can hear and feel (in the steering wheel), a rubbing. Keep in mind after my accident, my steering wheel had to be held at a 45 degree angle to the left when driving straight and the passenger side wheel sat about an inch IN from where it was supposed to be sitting, causing MAJOR wear on my tires. It was nice to be able to drive her without a major forearm/bicep workout again.

My question is...after throwing all the money into getting the repairs on the wheel assembly and alignment done...(around $2000CDN including labour)....is it worth it to throw more money into her for the subframe?

Her stats:
92 Pearlie
barely any rust
all seats, leather & suede in GREAT condition
just over 153,000 KMs
brand new tires
$4500.00 custom built-in stereo
sun visors do NOT droop
rad has NEVER given me problems
and tranny was replaced almost 2 years ago.

So...here it is....dive into more repairs which will probably cost another $2000 and maybe never get her back to where I want her. Or sell her? Lose all the hard work, sweat & MONEY I've put into her? Please someone give me some advice...I LOVE my SVX.

Hocrest · #2 08-11-2010, 08:00 PM

Is the damage in the crossmember or the uni-body? If it's in the crossmember, get another one in there. I have one in my basement that I'll sell. But Nate is much closer to you and probably has one.

DJCookie · #3 08-11-2010, 08:21 PM

I'll have to find out from my mechanic....I was quite upset after hearing the update with the repairs, that I just went home. So I will find out tomorrow morning. And after you stated Nate was closer to me, I realized I hadn't updated my address in a VERY long time. I now live in BC, west coast that is...so hopefully if I am able to get a part, someone close on the west coast would be ideal.
I'll update more tomorrow. Thanx!!

Gamesy · #4 08-12-2010, 01:18 AM

if its unibody maybe find a shell and swap everything over?

DJCookie · #5 08-12-2010, 04:36 PM

So after having a lengthy discussion with my mechanic, the bend or crack (as per the receptionist), is an actual 'twist' on the subframe, attached to the unibody. He is going to attempt to straighten it, as best he can, and go from there. Once he has worked on it some more I will then decide the future of my precious Pearlie. The rubbing turns out to be a bad wheel bearing that was included in my 'used' wheel assembly. Which will now be replaced, as I was not told the assembly would not be in good condition. Thanks everyone for the info and help. Once I have a final answer I may look into swapping everything over to another shell...we will see what my options are.

1986nate · #6 08-13-2010, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hocrest

Is the damage in the crossmember or the uni-body? If it's in the crossmember, get another one in there. I have one in my basement that I'll sell. But Nate is much closer to you and probably has one.

I didn't see his info before he changed it, but I'm still closer to him

and do have one.
Good luck with whatever the mechanic is intending to do. I personally would try to find someone local with the subframe assembly or searching the junkyards since a solid frame is going to always be better than a repaired one. Someone must have a parts car somewhere nearby where you are that you could get it from.
I would keep it and fix it. If you were to sell, you won't get much at all back on your investment and damage like that never helps get a car, especially an SVX sold.

DJCookie · #7 08-14-2010, 06:04 PM

Well my mechanic has done what he can to the 'twist' and the new wheel bearing is getting put in on Monday. So once that is all said & done, I will be looking into parts from another SVX and go from there. Thanks again for everyone's help. I know for certain now that I will not sell her no matter what.

DJCookie · #8 08-18-2010, 07:15 PM

Got my baby back today. She is fantastic. A few things that still need to be looked into. I have a power steering leak, so might be the rack, but very slow leak, so I will just keep an eye on it for now. As for the subframe, my mechanic did an excellent job trying to straighten things out as much as he can. Won't be perfect again, but it is safe and no noises anymore. The ONLY issue remaining is going over bumps (small potholes), there is a wobbling of the steering wheel. Almost as if something is loose in the steering. We both looked over everything and all is tight and snug. Any ideas on what the wobbling may be caused by?

oab_au · #9 08-18-2010, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJCookie

Got my baby back today. She is fantastic. A few things that still need to be looked into. I have a power steering leak, so might be the rack, but very slow leak, so I will just keep an eye on it for now. As for the subframe, my mechanic did an excellent job trying to straighten things out as much as he can. Won't be perfect again, but it is safe and no noises anymore. The ONLY issue remaining is going over bumps (small potholes), there is a wobbling of the steering wheel. Almost as if something is loose in the steering. We both looked over everything and all is tight and snug. Any ideas on what the wobbling may be caused by?

The wobbling may be caused by the lower suspension arm and the steering track rod, not being a parallelogram. These two arms have to have the same length, from ball point to pivot, and (in your case) be parallel to each other.

If the steering arm is bent up or down or the rack is not mounted at the right height, you will have a bump steering action, where the different arcs are not equal and when the wheel moves up or down it will try to turn. The gyroscopic effect will prevent the wheel from turning, but the steering wheel will.

Harvey.