Ignition switch pics

[Hocrest]

When the security bolts are new, a socket works fine, the thing that makes them "security" is that you tighten them until they snap off at the thin part between the head and the threads.

The other thing that makes them difficult to remove is that they are recessed in a hole so there is no way to get on them with pliers.

[msvx95]

Oh ok, I understand...so the object is to not tighten them too tight obviously...
Well, my other question is this the part number 57420AC010?
I emailed subaruparts.com and they gave me that number, but not sure if that's the key cylinder which I don't want.
I guess I need confirmation that it's the same as what Kuoh listed on page 1.

thanks

[Hocrest]

Originally Posted by msvx95

Oh ok, I understand...so the object is to not tighten them too tight obviously...
Well, my other question is this the part number 57420AC010?
I emailed subaruparts.com and they gave me that number, but not sure if that's the key cylinder which I don't want.
I guess I need confirmation that it's the same as what Kuoh listed on page 1.

thanks

57420AC010 matches up to #2
83131PA000 matches up to #9


If your not going to turn them tight enough to shear the bolt, I think it will work it's way loose since so many have people have found bolts that worked loose after being broken off. I think you'll be better off by just using regular bolts instead. Then you can get them nice and tight.

[ensteele]

My thought was that security bolts are not going to keep a thief from stealing your car, so might as well put in regular bolts that will allow you to put them in easily or take them out again.

[ensteele]

I will try to write this up using the pictures that have been included with this thread and put it in the How-To Docs.

[Trevor]

What an encouraging thread to read, after all the "band aid" stuff, so wrongly promoted. In this regard, I do not include the original fix to an intermittent problem, as was submitted by Beav, but later continually so much misconstrued.

[msvx95]

Thanks for the clarification guys
I wonder if notching out the plastic switch slightly and then the metal housing and attaching a zip-tie or some kind of clamp to hold the two pieces more securely together... Just a thought.

[dcarrb]

I hope someone can expand on this particular problem and/or offer ideas about what happened to me yesterday:

Fully warmed engine, ambient temp low 80s F. Turned the key and all the dash lights illuminated, but there wasn't so much as a click from the starter. Switch off, repeat, same deal. Removed key and worked the gear selector to ensure the car was in park (at which time I could hear fuel gurgling in the tank, as if the fuel pump had kicked on and off). Tried once more and she fired right up. Drove a mile, shut 'er down and restarted twice without hesitation. No troubles later in the day, either.

FWIW, I bought this car last August and immediately replaced the battery. The (reman) alternator appears new, having yet to discolor the lightly-affixed paper bar code sticker on the housing. 157,000 miles. Perfectly reliable until yesterday.

If turning the key seems to bring everything but the starter to life, could the switch still be at fault? I can accommodate a host of minor infirmities in an old car, but roll-the-dice starting ain't one of 'em. (Okay, I'll admit it: I just dumped a large dollop of cash into this car and am feeling betrayed. Somebody make me an offer...)

Opinions appreciated.

dcb

[ensteele]

I have one that the switch is bad, and does the same thing. No starter, but everythinge else is good. I have to just wiggle the key a bit and then it will work. Hope it is your problem too.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

I hope someone can expand on this particular problem and/or offer ideas about what happened to me yesterday:

Fully warmed engine, ambient temp low 80s F. Turned the key and all the dash lights illuminated, but there wasn't so much as a click from the starter. Switch off, repeat, same deal. Removed key and worked the gear selector to ensure the car was in park (at which time I could hear fuel gurgling in the tank, as if the fuel pump had kicked on and off). Tried once more and she fired right up. Drove a mile, shut 'er down and restarted twice without hesitation. No troubles later in the day, either.

FWIW, I bought this car last August and immediately replaced the battery. The (reman) alternator appears new, having yet to discolor the lightly-affixed paper bar code sticker on the housing. 157,000 miles. Perfectly reliable until yesterday.

If turning the key seems to bring everything but the starter to life, could the switch still be at fault? I can accommodate a host of minor infirmities in an old car, but roll-the-dice starting ain't one of 'em. (Okay, I'll admit it: I just dumped a large dollop of cash into this car and am feeling betrayed. Somebody make me an offer...)

Opinions appreciated.

dcb

right back at you! Our SVX's are not new but many of the older exotic cars of other brands aren'r new either. Many other brands have only hundreds or a few thousand of miles on them. The SVX is made to drive and we are going to drive them. People with one two three or more svx's (I have 2) drive them. most of us have 150,000 or more miles on our cars. Most other brands would be in the dump long before that with the miles and "driving habits" we SVX people have. SVX's were ahead of their time when they were built and many of their features are just getting this year.
Things happen, as the bumper sticker says, but we can purchase and maintain our SVX's cheaper that owning many new cars. I beleive a Subaru SVX today is the safest car to drive on the road today, bar none. We travel (fly) to other citys and rent a car. When I have reason to drive a new rental car of any discription, I want my SVX back-always- but moreso in the adverse weather conditions (wind, rain,ice, snow, you name it.
I am 77 years old and do all the needed work on my cars. I do all the testing, mechanical and electrical, with great help from this web site. Doing this has a two-fold advantage. Saves you a lot of money on labor-makes sure you only get needed things done-lets you know that all work is done correctly-and gives you the pride of learning and acomplishment! Oops... That would be a four-fold advantage.
Good luck!
Keith

[Hop]

Is this where the key goes in? I can't tell from the pics. My key grinds in the tumblers and I'm afraid that it's not going to last long and was wondering if this would be a fix for it. Did the part come with tumbler and new keys? Or can I order just the tumbler?

Oops, just saw the diagram below. So, would I have to order and replace all locks to repair this?

I thought about putting in a remote starter as a fix but I think that you still have to install and turn the key to drive.
Greg

[kwren]

Maybe lubricate it with a graphic based lub.
If you have another key that works better, get a new copy made. Could be a worn key?
Good luck,
Keith

[Hop]

It's the same grind with both keys and neither key looks worn. It grinds about 3/4 of the turn. I'll look for some graphite lub on my next trip the the parts store. Thanks. Greg

[wannarace928]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

I hope someone can expand on this particular problem and/or offer ideas about what happened to me yesterday:

Fully warmed engine, ambient temp low 80s F. Turned the key and all the dash lights illuminated, but there wasn't so much as a click from the starter. Switch off, repeat, same deal. Removed key and worked the gear selector to ensure the car was in park (at which time I could hear fuel gurgling in the tank, as if the fuel pump had kicked on and off). Tried once more and she fired right up. Drove a mile, shut 'er down and restarted twice without hesitation. No troubles later in the day, either.

FWIW, I bought this car last August and immediately replaced the battery. The (reman) alternator appears new, having yet to discolor the lightly-affixed paper bar code sticker on the housing. 157,000 miles. Perfectly reliable until yesterday.

If turning the key seems to bring everything but the starter to life, could the switch still be at fault? I can accommodate a host of minor infirmities in an old car, but roll-the-dice starting ain't one of 'em. (Okay, I'll admit it: I just dumped a large dollop of cash into this car and am feeling betrayed. Somebody make me an offer...)

Opinions appreciated.

dcb

I am having the same problem. Mine turned out to be a bad starter. One day it just wouldnt turn over at all anymore, replaced starter and it was fine. I replaced it previously with a used one, but after several months it started having the same problem again. I will be replacing it with a new one now.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

I hope someone can expand on this particular problem and/or offer ideas about what happened to me yesterday:

Fully warmed engine, ambient temp low 80s F. Turned the key and all the dash lights illuminated, but there wasn't so much as a click from the starter. Switch off, repeat, same deal. Removed key and worked the gear selector to ensure the car was in park (at which time I could hear fuel gurgling in the tank, as if the fuel pump had kicked on and off). Tried once more and she fired right up. Drove a mile, shut 'er down and restarted twice without hesitation. No troubles later in the day, either.

FWIW, I bought this car last August and immediately replaced the battery. The (reman) alternator appears new, having yet to discolor the lightly-affixed paper bar code sticker on the housing. 157,000 miles. Perfectly reliable until yesterday.

If turning the key seems to bring everything but the starter to life, could the switch still be at fault? I can accommodate a host of minor infirmities in an old car, but roll-the-dice starting ain't one of 'em. (Okay, I'll admit it: I just dumped a large dollop of cash into this car and am feeling betrayed. Somebody make me an offer...)

Opinions appreciated.

dcb

Yes, as the key switch incorporates a separate set of, loaded-open start contacts. But ---- you advise that moving the gear selector appeared to have corrected the problem, so that the inhibitor circuitry could have been the culprit.

As you have discovered a remedy, don't concern yourself as it could well be a one off incident.