Blinky dash lights (not a Christmas story)

[mohrds]

For the last week or so, my dash warning lights have been flickering on anywhere from a flash to on for 10 seconds. The lights that come on are the ones that light up when you crank the engine (Steer-ing, Battery, Stop Lamp, Brake, ABS). I am asuming that it is in the ignition switch or in the connector to the ignition switch.

I plan to remove and clean the ignition switch with electronics cleaner and a brass brush (battery will be disconnected), but I'm wondering if I should coat everything with dielectric grease before I re-assemble.

I'd like some opinions on this, please.

Doug

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by mohrds
For the last week or so, my dash warning lights have been flickering on anywhere from a flash to on for 10 seconds. The lights that come on are the ones that light up when you crank the engine (Steer-ing, Battery, Stop Lamp, Brake, ABS). I am asuming that it is in the ignition switch or in the connector to the ignition switch.

I plan to remove and clean the ignition switch with electronics cleaner and a brass brush (battery will be disconnected), but I'm wondering if I should coat everything with dielectric grease before I re-assemble.

I'd like some opinions on this, please.

Doug

Sure it's not the battery or alternator? I'd eleminate these from the equation before I went after the ignition switch (less to go wrong). Take it to Autozone (or similar) and have your charging system checked (How old is that Optima, anyway?). Then, if you HAVE to go to the trouble of disassembling the switch, go ahead with the dielectric grease -- it couldn't hurt. Also, if that Optima is shot, Advance Auto Parts (if you have them there) now have the Optima "Clones" at a more reasonable price. But, for my money, I'd check the battery connections and the alternator first . . . but, that's just me.

[mohrds]

<<(How old is that Optima, anyway?).>>
I just bought a new one last night. It is trickle charging right now and I plan to install it tonight or tomorrow. BTW the old one is dated 3-14-94 so I guess it is 7.5 years old. I went with the genuine Optima brand again. Its been good to me. The sales guy looked puzzled when I put it on the counter and he went to get his manager. The manager brought out this product sheet from Optima and began to tell me about the benifits of it. I politely said "I know all about it, I've been using Optimas for over 5 years." He looked stunned! They must not sell many of them.

<<have your charging system checked>>
I thought about that, but there are no other indications of power loss. Lights do not dim, engine does not stumble, etc.

I'll check the voltage via the cigarette lighter and if it looks strange, I'll get it checked.

So you don't think the grease will make it hard to turn the switch when it is 20 degrees below zero?

Doug

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by mohrds
So you don't think the grease will make it hard to turn the switch when it is 20 degrees below zero?

I don't think a *light* coat will cause much trouble. Now, if you go "slathering" you might meet some resistance.

[svxstarship]

I have the exact same flashing light problem. Ignition switch was checked by electrical specialist and that wasn't it. At least the car keeps running.
If you figure it out before me please be sure to post the solution.

[mohrds]

I took apart the steering column last night and to my surprise there were only four wires going to the switch. That means that there must be some relays somewhere downstream. When I get some more time, I'll follow the wires to see where they go.

I really need to buy the electrical shop manual...

Doug

[vkykam]

Post what you need out of the manual and I'm sure one of us who has a manual will be glad to help.

VK

Originally posted by mohrds
I took apart the steering column last night and to my surprise there were only four wires going to the switch. That means that there must be some relays somewhere downstream. When I get some more time, I'll follow the wires to see where they go.

I really need to buy the electrical shop manual...

Doug

[mohrds]

Well, I replaced the battery, then drove around with the voltmeter hooked up. At stop signs with lights, radio, rear defroster and heater on, it was at 11.5VDC. During normal cruising, it was at 13.6. Seems fine to me.

I jiggled the connectors along the harness from the ignition switch back to the ECU and did not see any difference in the flashing.

I'd like to swap out the ECU and see if it is coming from inside the ECU.

svxstarship - do you by chance have a powerchip in your car?

I'm going to try installing the original chip back in the car and see if that does anything.

VK or anyone- I would like the wiring chart from the gauge cluster to the ECU and the ignition switch to ECU. I don't know how many pages that will entail, but if someone gets a chance, I'd appreciate it.

Doug

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by mohrds
Well, I replaced the battery, then drove around with the voltmeter hooked up. At stop signs with lights, radio, rear defroster and heater on, it was at 11.5VDC. During normal cruising, it was at 13.6. Seems fine to me.

I jiggled the connectors along the harness from the ignition switch back to the ECU and did not see any difference in the flashing.

I'd like to swap out the ECU and see if it is coming from inside the ECU.

svxstarship - do you by chance have a powerchip in your car?

I'm going to try installing the original chip back in the car and see if that does anything.

VK or anyone- I would like the wiring chart from the gauge cluster to the ECU and the ignition switch to ECU. I don't know how many pages that will entail, but if someone gets a chance, I'd appreciate it.

Doug

I think I have the combination meter schematic and the ecu pinouts on my home unit. It'll have to wait until tonight, unless someone else posts first.

[svxstarship]

Mohrds...

No powerchip in my 92. The more I drive the car the less it seems to happen. I drive an about 100 miles a day. I suspect a bad ground somewhere.

[vkykam]

I'll try to do it when I get a chance. My scanner's power transformer is busted, and I haven't had a chance to replace it yet.

VK

Originally posted by mohrds

VK or anyone- I would like the wiring chart from the gauge cluster to the ECU and the ignition switch to ECU. I don't know how many pages that will entail, but if someone gets a chance, I'd appreciate it.

Doug

[mohrds]

As of about 11:00 this morning, the warning lights no longer flash. Here is what I did to solve it. I am not going to place any judgement on what actually cured it.

I went over to BLKSVX92's place to help him with his dead car. We diagnosed that it is likely the alternator gone bad. To test my theory, I took the alternator out of my car and placed it in his and his car started charging. I then put the alternator back in my car and we drove to get him a new alternator and I noticed right away that the lights were not on anymore.

In detail, here is what I did.
1. Remove negative battery cable from battery 10mm.
2. Remove black plastic belt shield 10mm.
3. loosen alternator belt pulley nut 12mm and loosen belt adjuster 12mm.
4. Remove alternator belt.
5. Remove positive terminal on alternator 10mm.
6. Unplug alternator connector.
7. Remove alternator harness hold down bolt 10mm.
8. Remove two alternator bolts 12mm.
9. Push harness up and back to allow for removal of alternator.
10. Remove alternator.

Install is exact opposite.

I do not know what solved the lights issue, if it was disconnecting the battery or the movement of that harness. When the alternator power cord was removed, it may have hit the metal alternator bracket which would do the same thing as touching the negative cable to the positive cable and discharging the car and possibly the computer.

All I know is that it is solved!!!

This turned out to be a great day (for me anyway, I'm not the one who has to drop $200 for a new alternator).

Doug

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by mohrds
As of about 11:00 this morning, the warning lights no longer flash. Here is what I did to solve it. I am not going to place any judgement on what actually cured it.

I went over to BLKSVX92's place to help him with his dead car. We diagnosed that it is likely the alternator gone bad. To test my theory, I took the alternator out of my car and placed it in his and his car started charging. I then put the alternator back in my car and we drove to get him a new alternator and I noticed right away that the lights were not on anymore.

In detail, here is what I did.
1. Remove negative battery cable from battery 10mm.
2. Remove black plastic belt shield 10mm.
3. loosen alternator belt pulley nut 12mm and loosen belt adjuster 12mm.
4. Remove alternator belt.
5. Remove positive terminal on alternator 10mm.
6. Unplug alternator connector.
7. Remove alternator harness hold down bolt 10mm.
8. Remove two alternator bolts 12mm.
9. Push harness up and back to allow for removal of alternator.
10. Remove alternator.

Install is exact opposite.

I do not know what solved the lights issue, if it was disconnecting the battery or the movement of that harness. When the alternator power cord was removed, it may have hit the metal alternator bracket which would do the same thing as touching the negative cable to the positive cable and discharging the car and possibly the computer.

All I know is that it is solved!!!

This turned out to be a great day (for me anyway, I'm not the one who has to drop $200 for a new alternator).

Doug

Aint it great when we get blessed after helping others.