Blown engine? HELP! - Page 2

vkykam · #16 11-12-2001, 11:25 AM

Ebay engine guy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...538850&r=0&t=0

He's had at least 3 different SVX engines posted, and some of them didn't sell. Click on "ask seller a question" and see if he has anything left.

White smoke = coolant, but if you have that much white smoke, like Lightning said, you'll have to see it in the engine oil and the dipstick as well.

Best case scenario: battery now dead, white smoke coming from source other than coolant. If you don't see water in oil, and you can turn the crank pulley, this might just be it.

Keep in mind, new car payment = $$$$$$, repairs = $$$.
SVX enjoyment factor =

, new car =

VK

Aredubjay · #17 11-12-2001, 12:01 PM

I'm going to copy this thread to "Chris's SVX Shop" in case he only checks his "Shop" and does not join in the other threads.

Beav · #18 11-12-2001, 05:20 PM

Start with the basics: Oil will create white smoke when the engine is running, but not when it's cold and only turning over. Ditto for antifreeze. If you have enough gas pouring through the engine to produce white smoke at the tailpipe I hope nobody has a cigarette lit.

BTW, just how much white smoke do you see? Just a little or enough that you can't see through the cloud?

Is the white smoke still coming from the tailpipe since the engine has cooled? Is the engine turning over but not starting? Is it trying to start but not quite making it? (that could explain white smoke if engine is cold.) You said that the radiator is full and there wasn't any sign of water in the oil. That tells me that head gaskets are probably o.k. When you crank the engine over does it sound like it normally does or does it sound a bit funny?

Answer these questions first, they'll help point the correct direction. It sounds like you're not the DIY kind of guy for engine repair, but I can probably help keep you from paying for something you don't need. (31 years as a pro mech)

Beav

EveryShadeofBlue · #19 11-12-2001, 10:44 PM

Thanks for the link to the Ebay engine guy Vkykam, I couldn't find those old auctions anywhere.

Also, thanks Beav for all the assistance. Let me try to answer some of your questions. There's no more white smoke coming out of the tail pipes. That quit when the engine was cooled. As of now it won't turn over at all and the battery isn't dead. Back to the white smoke... there was quite a bit at first, not a blinding cloud of it. And on subsequent attempts to restart the engine there were just small plumes. Before the engine was locked up and I tried to start it, it sounded just like it normally does on start up, just that it wouldn't start.

I re-checked the radiator and oil filler when I was visiting my car today. Radiator full. Engine dipstick has nothing but honey gold oil on it. The cap has no odd smell or residue on it. Just like normal.

I've never heard of any of these engines going. I'm totally perplexed.

Again, if anyone wants an SVX with a few engine problems, let me know! Thanks for all the help. You guys and girls are the best.

Jeff

Beav · #20 11-12-2001, 11:15 PM

From what you've told us so far the next logical thing to do would be to remove the coils and spark plugs. Then try to turn the engine over by hand.

Without coolant loss I doubt that the engine has a head gasket problem and if the oil is nice and clean I doubt that it's locked up from lack of lubrication. Since you said that it sounded normal when cranking we'll assume that the valve train is operational.

Currently I would suspect that a fuel injector has hung open and has hydro-locked its cylinder. This would explain the vibration that went away with acceleration (more pedal allows more air and a not so rich mixture.) By running so rich at lower speeds the unburnt fuel could appear as white smoke. Letting the car set would allow ambient fuel pressure to deplete itself through the open injector and hydro-lock the cylinder.

Removing the spark plugs and turning the engine by hand will expel the fuel from the cylinder and allow you to identify the culprit injector. Please don't smoke while doing this.

Of course, you realize, this is all theoretical from this distance. From what you've told us it doesn't sound like anything too serious has happened. Let me know what happens.

Beav

EveryShadeofBlue · #21 11-13-2001, 08:18 AM

Hey Beav,

Are you saying that you think it MIGHT be just an injector problem??? I can get injectors and rails for $200.

I know you don't have the car in front of you and computer diagnostics are hard, but spill out any ideas!

Jeff

Beav · #22 11-13-2001, 08:24 AM

Now don't be running out and buying a buttload of parts!

Diagnosis comes first and it needs to be done in a logical progression. It is possible for an injector to wash the cylinder walls so dry of lubrication that the piston galls itself to the cylinder. There's a number of other things that could have happened, but at this point this seems to be the most logical. Get the plugs out and see if you can turn the engine over, then we'll go from there. At this point I'm just trying to help you save $400 and a dismantled engine...

Beav

vkykam · #23 11-13-2001, 08:46 AM

I'm no expert, so, Chris, Beav, chime in.

Could a crank sensor cause this?

VK

EveryShadeofBlue · #24 11-13-2001, 08:48 AM

Good idea Beav. I think I may just bite the bullet and ask them to do that. It shouldn't cost AS much to take the plugs out and try to crank it by hand. I will also fax over your messages because you sound like you know what you're talking about. If it does indeed crank, then what would be your next step? If it doesn't crank, I'm pretty much screwed then, right? My Subaru dealer is really really good, just expensive. But their "Free" work is limited. But I was begging hard yesterday, so maybe they'll have a heart.

Jeff

vkykam · #25 11-13-2001, 08:54 AM

Everyshade,

Don't be offended if I point out the obvious, but are you SURE your battery is fine?

Your battery could be low enough that you could have power locks, all the dash lights, radio, headlights, but not enough to even crank it over one bit.

Have you hooked jumper cables to try to jump start the car? Not that it'll solve your real problem, but at least it's the easiest thing to try first.

Beav:

You mentioned you used to have a shop in FL. Can you recommend a dealer alternative near Tampa for Everyshade? Unless of course you are still working in the FL area...

VK

Beav · #26 11-13-2001, 09:12 AM

It's been years since I lived in Fla., no help there.

My free work is limited too. I can't remember the last time the doc, grocery store or bank gave me anything free.

If it does crank after removing the plugs there has to be a reason and it'll probably come out of the spark plug holes when it does.
Taking the plugs out isn't all that difficult and would probably save you a tow bill. I saw a website where someone documented changing the plugs - maybe someone here can steer you to it.

Good Luck,

Beav

EveryShadeofBlue · #27 11-13-2001, 09:42 AM

I'll have the dealer double check the battery, it'd be hilarious if that was the problem and it should not be overlooked. As an aside, I had an '85 Toyota Celica that would vibrate terribly when I stepped on the gas. The place I had it at concluded the main shaft was loose and needed to be rebuilt. $500 later same problem. Guess what it was all along? An egg in the tire causing the whole thing!

Anyway, as I said, the car is at the dealer so there's nothing I can do right now. I think I am going to ask them to take out the plugs and try to hand crank it (and check the battery!!!). I said I didn't want to spend another nickel on this car, but I guess one last stab at it wouldn't hurt.

Thanks for all the help!

Jeff

rufus · #28 11-13-2001, 01:42 PM

I had a very similar set of symptoms on a previous car, but I have no idea if there may be any relevance here, but I'll throw it out just the same.

I had an alternator sieze, and there was enough tension on the belt to keep the engine from turning over. Fluids fine, no overheat, just driving along, stutter..stutter..stop. There was a little smoke from the belt grinding to a stop, but not out the tailpipes. Kind of a freak thing I believe.

#29 11-13-2001, 07:47 PM

Jeff,
We've been in business for twenty five years and so have seen almost every kind of failure. The first thing to do is to gather all available evidence. A compression and a leakdown test will show you if there is a head gasket problem or a compression loss from some other cause. A pressure test of the cooling system should also be performed. If the engine passes these tests, it is extremely unlikely there is an internal engine problem. ANY competant shop should have the equipment to do these tests. Making decisions without this information is guesswork and should be compared with buying lottery tickets. I could guess what your engine problem is but my opinion would be worth only slightly more than nothing!

EveryShadeofBlue · #30 11-14-2001, 12:33 PM

Just an update. I just called the Subaru dealer and they still haven't had a chance to take out the plugs and try the hand crank procedure that Beav described. They said that they were going to do this all along, like I insulted their intelligence, but they didn't seem to quick to act. I'm doing my best to gently prod them in the nicest way possible so they can save my car.

I also talked to the guy that would dismantle my car. He used to do this for a living (LEGALLY) and it sounds like it would be a pretty smooth operation to get it done. I'd pay him a flat rate of about $350 and he'd take it apart and he'd also help me do things like ship out big parts (engine, tranny, etc...). And no, I'm not jumping the gun yet, I'm doing my best to save this from happening.

Thanks again for all your concern. I really do appreciate it.

Jeff