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  #1  
Old 10-31-2001, 08:51 AM
Paxton71
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Question Front Axle nut size?

I have searched the archive with no results

I am a competent wrench turner about to change the front half-shaft on my newly aquired '92.

What size is the axle retaining nut? I should have a socket big enough to fit, but you folks could save me a trip to the store.

Any hints on swapping my right side axle shaft out?
I have the complete service manual set to help me, but experience is sometimes worth more than text.

I had a dream that it took only 2 hours. (I have air tools! *laughs*)

Thanks,

Stephen
1992 stock SVX
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  #2  
Old 10-31-2001, 05:53 PM
svx_commuter's Avatar
svx_commuter svx_commuter is offline
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My front axles were bad because the RWD wasn’t, isn’t, doesn’t work and it over loaded the front axles and wore them out. Mainly due to fast starts while turning a corner. Not good for a front wheel drive car. Those CV joints have to go thru gyrations to keep up with the sever misalignment between the wheel hub axle and the engine stub shaft. Well anyway.

The axle nut is a 1-1/4" (6Pt) and you need a punch with an OD of about .190" to get the pin out of the axle. I sand belted down the tip of big nail and used that.

First jack -up the car and take off the wheel. Next remove the hub cap or grease cap or what ever you want to call it (One was missing on my car.) from the axle. Punch out the punched in section of the punch flange that is on the axle nut. This releases the nut form the axle. Next get an 8 foot pipe or smaller and place on the end of the breaker bar and using that 1-1/4" socket, place it over the axle nut. Now you have to have really long legs because you have to depress the brake pedal to hold the wheel hub while you turn off the axle nut. This is really tricky but you can do it if you put the car window down and have that long pipe on the breaker bar. ( I usually do not have any one to help so I have to come up with these things.) Of course you could always grab someone passing by and ask them to push the brake pedal down but if its Grandma, she is isn’t gonna be strong enough. The hub is going to spin. ( No power brakes when the car is off.)

After you get the nut off, throw it away because you are supposed to use a new one. They are very inexpensive.

Next remove the torsion bar link at the strut. Check the surface that this sits on and see if its been sliding around. We will get back to that later. Or remove it at the end of the torsion bar arm.

Disconnect the brake line that is attached to the strut. So you got room to pull the strut, wheel assembly, out without pulling the brake line apart. Your not going to feel that brake line break when you pull the assembly out.

Put your body under the car and find the small hole in the axle end. Oh yeah. This is why you want both wheels off the ground. So you can spin the axles and find this hole. The pin only comes out one way and that is by banging on the spring pin from the small hole side of the axle. Did you buy new pins? Pins don’t cost much. Is the car on jack stands? Don’t get under the car without it being on jack stands.

Loosen up the bolts holding the strut. Run them nuts all the way to the top of the studs. This will give you some extra side ways motion when you pull the wheel hub out and then you don’t have to worry about bending the strut or stretching the top strut mount too much or denting the bearing races in the mount.

Next remove the ball joint pinch bolt. You might have to bang the bolt out after the nut comes off. Did you buy a new one? Bolt and nut? I wish I had. I think I almost stripped the head trying to get it loose. Push and or pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint comes out and watch out you don’t damage the boot. If it does not come out pry open the slot with a big screw driver. The lower control arm will actually try to stay up because of them big rubber bushings. You may need another foot to hold it down.

Next pull the wheel hub out and remove the axle from the wheel hub and then pull the axle out of the front sub frame. This is easiest done by one person with four arms which I don’t have so you may want to get help like I did. One person sat on the ground and used their legs for leverage while the other person guided the axle out of the hub. You have to GUIDE the axle out so that the grease seal in the hub is not damaged. The steering wheel has to be unlocked so the other wheel, your not working on can get pulled in as the tie rod attached to the wheel your working on gets pulled out. (Its a game of give and take.)

(If you happen to be doing this during a race, remember to wear gloves because the rotors will still be hot and if the rotors are cool then you are slow and should not be in the pit.)

Use a Subaru axle if you plan to drive faster that 60 MPH. This has BIG o-rings in the small folds of the boot so the boots don’t fly out and become a balloon at high speeds. The Subaru axle also has a baffle plate that matches nicely to the wheel hub and helps keep the dirt and water out of the bearing area.

Did you buy a new front bearing seal? The ones in my car were crushed from the last axles that were in there. I pulled them old ones out. They was hard and dry. Pulled some of the old grease out of the bearing and put in some new stuff. You will need a ring of the proper size to install the new seal and a bronze hammer or someone else really thick headed and soft. The ring has to fit to the seal face and it is best to get a metal ring of the right size before you start to take the car apart.

Assembly is in the reverse order.

Last but not least, Tighten the torsion bar link to the strut after the car is on the ground. This will put it back in the proper place and correct any movement that may have occurred due to hitting pot holes and flying over small hills and or rumble strip activity.

Remember…… axles should be replaced in pairs.

2/2/01 purchase as follows:
28044AA000 NUT AXLE $3.28
28034AA000 HUB CAP R $7.18 There is an o-ring for this.
28015PA010 OIL SEAL $13.37
28021PA061 DRIVE SHAFT $299.96
051906452 SPRING PIN $1.63
20220PA000 BALL JOINT 48.71
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  #3  
Old 11-14-2001, 03:41 PM
Paxton71
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thanks! AWSOME reply

Perfect that is exactly how I describe things too so I'm right there under the car with you!

I used to crew on a GT3 SCCA car. I can appreciate the hot parts comments.

8 foot cheater....geez...can I use my 1 inch impact instead?
Loosen the nut with wheels on ground?

Don't answer that

Thanks for the tips.

Fortunantly I have REALLY long legs and 4 arms so I should be OK.
The parts list is GREAT!

Stephen
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  #4  
Old 11-14-2001, 04:00 PM
1994SubaruSVX 1994SubaruSVX is offline
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we have some really awesome guys here!!

that was a pretty damn technical write up. hell i feel like i could go out and do the work.
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2001, 05:12 PM
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svx_commuter svx_commuter is offline
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Don't answer that? I do not understand why but they say not to loosen the axle nut with the wheel is on the ground as this could damage the bearings.............. I guess the inner races may spread apart. Sort of gets me wondering about bearing failures.

Thanks for the thanks and I was wondering where you went?
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2001, 05:22 PM
strange179 strange179 is offline
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Axle nut size

I just did the front axle on my 1992 AWD SVX and the axle nut was a 32mm.

I believe the front wheel drive SVXs use a different axle and a 36mm nut but I'm not positive about that fact.

Jay
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  #7  
Old 11-18-2001, 05:44 PM
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svx_commuter svx_commuter is offline
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Just for the historical record..... 32mm is 1.26"
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