checking ECU codes w/o diag equipment

does anybody remember how to check the ECU (not TCU) codes w/o a reader?

I remember that you can short pin(s) somewhere in the diagnostic harness that will flash the check engine light (u-check codes) upon startup, but I can't remember for the life of me which one.

The "R" finally gave out on me for the first time last week after a long distance trip (loping idle, low output at WOT, stalls after WOT), I think it's my PCV but not quite sure...

Many cut-and-pastes below as my wrists hurt to much to type... bah...

First:
Remove the driver side kick panel (panel next to the left foot rest, where the fuse box lives)

Find blue wire, and plug into black connector, top row (top row being side with notch), 2nd hole from left to right

Second, turn key to on position.. then:


The Check Engine light will flash in pulses: long and short. The long pulses (1.2 seconds in length) indicate units of ten, while the short pulses (0.2 seconds in length) indicates units of one. The flashes are separated by 0.3 seconds. So, two long flashes and two short flashes would indicate a trouble code of 22. If there is only one problem, the same code will flash continuously, separated by 1.8 seconds. If there are more than one, the codes will flash in succession, separated by 1.8 seconds. In other words, long-long-short-short (1.8 sec) long-long-short-short . . . shows code 22 is the only problem. If the light flashes long-long-short-short (1.8 sec) long-short-short . . . then continues this pattern, then there is a code 22 and a code 12 problem.

Here is what the trouble codes mean:

11. Crank angle sensor #1 -- No signal from crank angle sensor #1for more than three seconds after start switch is ON.
12. Starter Switch – Abnormal signal from ignition switch.
13. Cam Angle Sensor – No signal from cam sensor, but signal from crank angle sensor number one.
14. 14 - 19 indicate an inoperative fuel injector. 14 indicates injector one is inoperative, 15 is injector two, 16 is injector three . . . and so forth.
21. Water temperature sensor – abnormal signal from water temp sensor.
22. Knock sensor 1 (RH) – Abnormal voltage from knock sensor monitor circuit.
23. Air flow sensor – Abnormal voltage from air flow sensor.
24. By-pass air control solenoid valve – by pass air control solenoid valve inoperative (Abnormal signal in monitor circuit).
28. Knock sensor 2 (LH) – Abnormal voltage from knock sensor monitor circuit.
29. Crank angle sensor #2 – No signal from crank angle sensor #2, but two signals from crank angle sensor #1.
31. Throttle sensor – Abnormal voltage from throttle sensor.
32. O2 sensor #1 (RH) – O2 sensor inoperative.
33. Vehicle Speed Sensor #2 – No signal from vehicle speed sensor #2.
34. EGR Solenoid Valve – EGR solenoid valve inoperative.
35. Purge control solenoid valve – Purge control solenoid valve inoperative.
37. O2 Sensor #2 (LH) – O2 sensor 2 is inoperative.
38. Engine Torque Control – Wiring harness between ECU and TCU is in short circuit.
41. A/F Learning Control – Faulty learning control function.
45. Atmosphere Pressure Sensor – Faulty atmospheric pressure sensor inside ECU.
51. Neutral Switch – Abnormal signal from inhibitor switch.
52. Parking Switch – Abnormal signal from parking switch.
55. EGR gas temperature sensor (CAL.) – Abnormal signal from EGR gas temp sensor.
56. EGR system (CAL.) – EGR valve stuck open/closed, EGR hose disconnected or exhaust pressure control valve damaged.

and now for the 400 mile drive *back* to my car!