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#16
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Quote:
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me |
#17
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Good luck man... Its always easier with a buddy or two around to help, or laugh at you when you crush a knuckle.
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Patrick 1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby" JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player 6Xk Miles. 1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#18
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Nowadays it is best to do the headgasket while you have the engine out. I have seen far too many motors with bad head gaskets because of 15yrs of exposure to coolant and water. But don't take my word for it, there is the hard way to find out
Tom |
#19
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Kill me now.
Any special procedures/tricks to get the engine to separate from the trans (5MT)? I've got everything disconnected and about 1/2" separation between the two, but I can't get the dang engine to pull out. Using an engine hoist along with a jack at the front edge of the engine. HELLLLLP!!! I hate car work more and more every time I do it
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me |
#20
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You did take the 5mt slide pin out right?? To release the fork from the throwout bearing? It is behind the big allen head plug next to the starter.
Tom |
#21
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No, I did not. Shouldn't the transmission input shaft slide out anyway?
Is it necessary for an 02 WRX trans? I"ll do it...it's easy...I just want to understand why it won't separate now.
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me |
#22
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because, the clutch fork is attached to the pressure plate via the throwout bearing. if you need to seperate them, you need to pull the slide pin and lift the clutch fork off of the throwout bearing so it can move away from the trans. The slide pin is secured to the case so there is no moving it. It is just the way the pull type clutches work.
Tom |
#23
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Thanks, Tom. I got it out in about 5 minutes after removing that pin.
Interesting thing is that something is misagligned between the clutch, TO bearing, and engine output. Spinning the TOB it is obviously not quite centered correctly. When I removed the cluth, I put it on the TOB on a flat surface and spun it, and you could see that the clutch spun in a slightly oblique pattern. Any ideas? Clutch alignment tool isn't quite right? Pressure plate splines bent?
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me |
#24
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no, the TOB has a little lateral movement to it. it is very normal, you can push it side to side
Tom |
#25
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So,theoretically I should be able to place it so that it would appear centered. I'll check for that. I definitely screwed something up during the initial install, though. One of the bolts for the clutch was backed out partially allowing for a noticeable gap to the flywheel (1/8"). that could explain the clutch judder I had.
Also had 2 completely sheared engine mounts. I'm not really even sure what they were doing functionally. Now your solid mounts are on, though, so things should feel MUCH better when it's all buttoned up BTW, one of the bolts for the new mounts you sent me is very hard to get to for tightening. I'm guessing this is normal?
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me |
#26
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yeah, I usually just use the other two and leave it at that
Tom |
#27
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Well, last night was productive, seeing the installation of new valve cover gaskets, new water pump, and a new thermostat. Next up are
rear main seal front crank seal cam seals cam caps I have a few questions: rear main seal - I've read that I drill a small pilot hole in the middle of it and pull it out with a hook. However, I'm guessing that is' in there pretty tight. Can I do anything to prep it to improve my chance for success? Last thing I want is to drill a hole, then try to pull it out and just pull through the rubber. Then I have a ruined seal and no idea how to get it out. front crank seal - do I have to pull the oil pump to get to it? Or can I just pull part #16 in the below diagram? cam seals - I'm assuming that I have to remove the cam pulleys to replace these. So, since my reference marks for the timing belt are on the pulleys, are the pulleys keyed so that when I put them back on, everything is in the same orientation in relation to the actual cams? cam caps - do these just pry/pull off? I didn't want to get too aggressive if that's not how they work, but it seems like they should just pop off. I'm gonna go search some more for answers, but if you have the knowledge and would be willing to share, I'd definitely appreciate it!! Thanks.
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me Last edited by SVX10; 11-20-2007 at 09:50 AM. |
#28
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I was nervous about nicking the crank, so I pulled the oil pump in order to replace the front main seal. Piece of cake.
Along with every other seal on the back, bottom, front and sides of my engine (save the aforementioned front main seal) I have to replace my rear main seal. I haven't seen it, but it's likely got a metal ring inside the rubber, so drilling a hole in it and pulling it out with a hook makes sense; you'd have something solid to pull against. It sounds way better than trying to pry it out with a screwdriver, anyway. If you don't have any, get a set of picks from Sears. I use mine all the time. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE Last edited by Mr. Pockets; 11-20-2007 at 10:10 AM. |
#29
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use a flat blade screwdriver to get all the seals out. just be mindful when pushing in and prying out of what it is touching and rubbing against
Tom |
#30
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I like to use a fine thread drywall screw and a claw hammer to pull a rear main.
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"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin blk 92' LSL w/ average mods pics here http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/ Cash68: "Hmm, I wouldn't brag about beating Escorts. That's like saying you tricked a retarded person." |
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