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#1
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Oil changes?
Okay I'm almost embarassed to say this..... But even though I've changed the spark plugs on my SVX and done tons of other intensive maintenence, and plan to do more, I have yet to change the oil myself.
Don't laugh too hard, there are several reasons. The best excuse is since I've owned the SVX I've always lived in Apartments with minimal room to do that kind of thing on a every 3,000 mile basis. The lazy factor. Another one is that since my oil changing days on my first cars (70's American cars), I have started taking them to be done because of the whole lubing chasis thing. I don't have a grease gun and wouldn't know where to start. This is the factor that brings me to you guys with a question. Lastly of course I just feel piece of mind with having someone take my car up on a rack every 3 months to give it a good look (I go to a trusted Subie specialist). Also, having a receipt for the records is nice too, though at this point I doubt I will ever sell and if I did the mileage is past the point of receipts mattering. So I guess my big question is do most of you guys do it yourself? I now have a house with a driveway and 2 car garage so I'm running out of excuses. What all do you do when you change the oil? Is there even anything that gets lubed on these cars, or is all they are doing is draining my old oil, filling it with new, and changing the filter? I really would like to start saving some money. Your answers should apply to my wife's 94 Mazda as well I assume.
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Troy 1992 SVX LSL "Serenity" 250,000 miles! I don't care, I'm still free, You can't take the sky from me... |
#2
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drive car around a little to warm up oil
unscrew the oil fill cap under the hood slide oil catch pan under car and remove drain plug have a beer while oil drains have another beer remove plastic belly pan and remove filter or remove oil filter and let oil get all over belly pan or undo plexiglas trap door in belly pan and remove filter (my new idea) have a beer replace drain plug with a fresh crush ring (every other change) or put on fumoto valve instead of drain plug put on new filter, attach belly pan if needed have a beer, yell at the damn cat fill with 6.3? qts of your favorite oil have a beer check oil level on dipstick check beer level in fridge if good, replace fill cap, close hood yay, you're done! have a beer!
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Alan 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 1997 SVX LSi (Ebony) SOLD! 2005 Legacy GT (Silver) [Cobb Stg 2+] SOLD! 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! 2005 Forester XT Premium (Crystal Gray Metallic) SOLD! 2008 Lancer Evolution X MR (Apex Silver) [Cobb Stg 1+] 2015 Outlander Sport 2.4GT AWD (Mercury Gray) 2013 G37xS (Obsidian Black) |
#3
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While Alan's instruction's are pretty much correct, especially the beer part. I would like to add a few more.
Putting the car on ramps or jack stands is definetly a must do,much easier to work under. Take off the belly pan,you are going to make a big mess if you don't. To avoid making more of a mess when removing the filter,I would suggest loosening the filter slightly,then with an awl or screwdriver,punch a small hole in the filter. Then unscrew it a little to let air in, this will keep the oil from getting all over the ouside of the filter,and your hand. After it is done draining, remove it,making sure the seal came of with it. Wipe of the sealing surface and coat the new filter seal with oil.I always fill up the filter with oil,but it is not really necessary. Screw filter on hand tight. After filling,running and checking level,always check for leaks before putting the belly pan back on. There is nothing else to lube. But it is a good time to check all of the other fluids also.
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Mike 92 LSL Teal 103k 00 RS 2.5 Silverthorn Metallic 36k 68 Chevy Camaro 07 Forester XT Sport |
#4
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I fill the oil filter too. I have noticed that the Suby filters fill easier than Frams.
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#5
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Thanks for all the help!
Sounds like I need to be sure to buy a case of beer when I buy the case of oil.
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Troy 1992 SVX LSL "Serenity" 250,000 miles! I don't care, I'm still free, You can't take the sky from me... |
#6
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oil changes
Hello,
This is my version of the hot ticket on oil changes... First, switch to 100% synthetic: Walmart and the QWIK-LUBE variants have the best prices. Second, Change the filter and top up every 3000 miles. Third, do a complete filter and oil change every 20K miles. Synthetic oil does NOT break down but it does capture particulate matter and older, used filters are not great at capturing this stuff. I do NOT belive that under any circumstances aside from outright racing, that synthetic oil needs to be, or that there is the slightest benefit to be had by changing every 3000 miles as some do. It simply does not break down and changing the filter (use the best FRAM you can find) and adding 1-2 fresh liters will keep your engine extremely well lubed and happy. Thats my story and I've stuck to it over 20+ cars with NO engine failures, including racing, of any description. Hotshoe ps: after 2-3 filter changes, the oil will be a nice, clear amber, even before you change it.... no muddy black stuff any more!!! try it... Last edited by hotshoe50; 01-15-2003 at 05:31 PM. |
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