binding

[NiftySVX]

It is possible that the idiot put in a transmission with the wrong ratio and now the rear diff is fighting it, yes. The SVX is the only one with the 3.545 ratio

[fieronews]

how can I tell what it is. is there any markings on the outside of the caseing?

[NiftySVX]

The rear diff has a label that says "LSD 3.54" as I recall. You could also check the vin scribed on the trans case, if it is a transmission that is original to any car (not one that came as a part, but came in a car, any car, from the factory it will have this number) and if it starts with anything other than JF1CX it is not an SVX transmission and it is a good bet it is wrong, unless someone has done a conversion.

[NeedForSpeed]

I know that 'strange' feeling. I replaced two tires, and the mismatch gave that feeling. If all your tires are new and the same size, I don't understand that feeling. What trans was put in the car?

Originally Posted by fieronews

OK Got new tires on all 4 corners and the trans guy took the fuse out and he said that it felt straneg above 40 so he took it back out. Is he coocoo? Should I pull it and drive it???

[NeedForSpeed]

I agree. If tires match, it's the front diff. Perhaps the trans guy grabbed a fwd SVX trans, and swapped on a transfer clutch? More info is needed on the trans. As you suggested, the number on the front diff will answer the question. If in fact the front diff ratio is different, it would be less costly to swap in a matching rear.

Originally Posted by NiftySVX

The rear diff has a label that says "LSD 3.54" as I recall. You could also check the vin scribed on the trans case, if it is a transmission that is original to any car (not one that came as a part, but came in a car, any car, from the factory it will have this number) and if it starts with anything other than JF1CX it is not an SVX transmission and it is a good bet it is wrong, unless someone has done a conversion.

[trophy956]

hi you have tranfer clutch issues ,miss matched tires can fry your clutches ,there i a factory repair kit ,but if you dont know what trans is in your car,the final drive of 3.54 is right ,by the stater there should be a white tag with the number for the oem unit its TZ102ZMAA
if you put the fuse in and the binding goes away the electrical circut is good and it cant be a FWD trans ,because that harness and valve body dont support transfer systems
if you want the part numbers for the repairs let me know

[NeedForSpeed]

I completely agree, I was assuming the diff broke, and the trans guy grabbed a fwd tranny and swapped on the diff. The harness and vb would be original, if that is what happened. We don't know what happened, everyone is guessing.

Originally Posted by trophy956

hi you have tranfer clutch issues ,miss matched tires can fry your clutches ,there i a factory repair kit ,but if you dont know what trans is in your car,the final drive of 3.54 is right ,by the stater there should be a white tag with the number for the oem unit its TZ102ZMAA
if you put the fuse in and the binding goes away the electrical circut is good and it cant be a FWD trans ,because that harness and valve body dont support transfer systems
if you want the part numbers for the repairs let me know

[fieronews]

what does duty silinoid A do on the trans. We are getting a code 11

[NiftySVX]

Line pressure control. Not a good one to have go bad as it will take down your trans in a big hurry, even a big time beefed up unit. I have had this problem, do a search for "a question for the transmission experts' and read about my saga with it.

While this transmission is identical to a JATCO design which is used in many vehicles, as far as I can tell through my research the solenoid A is unique to Subaru versions and if a solenoid from a nissan or a mazda was used in place (it will fit and plug in correctly) then it will not operate with our TCU.

I am really starting to think that the technician who worked on your car did not perform a good repair and I highly reccomend need you get this resolved before they claim it's been to long for them to honor a warranty, which is a tactic many shady repair facilites will use when they know they've f'ed up. It would not surprise me if the transmission guy simply swapped in a differential or a transmission from another Subaru thinking they would be the same when in fact they are not. There are many differences in the two internally while they look identical on the outside. (keep in mind just this phase 1 4EAT could have 4.11, 4.44, 3.70, or the SVX only 3.545, all of which will bolt up with no problem) The differential gears in the front look identical and the only way to tell that they are different ratios is to count the teeth on the ring and pinion. It is standard procedure for any trans rebuilder to do this as I promise that they have seen or made the mistake of putting the wrong ratio trans in a car. Also, Replacement of the solenoids should have occured at any rebuild.

Have you looked at the vin number on the main case yet?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by fieronews

what does duty silinoid A do on the trans. We are getting a code 11

Solenoid valve A, a normally closed valve, adjusts line pressure within the transmission. Level Ten have advised, that the most common failure, is due to debris within the transmission causing the valve to stick open, therefore reducing pressure.

A code most likely indicates an electrical fault. In this event a sticking valve will not return to the fail safe position and line pressure will be very low. Refer to the previous thread covering the dangers involved with line pressure.

[deadwood]

Question related here. I am doing the diaganosis check as instructed on an FAQ below. Where exactly do I see these numbered faultcodes?? Are they supposed to show on the cluster somewhere? I get nothing but the Power light flashing after doing it. I put in the FWD fuse and still have binding so I tried to do the checks below.

4.5.4 - Diagnostics
The "Power" light indicates transmission codes. The following self diagnosis will show any fault codes for the transmission.

To perform the self diagnostic test for EXISTING problems:
Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
Turn ignition switch OFF.
Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON.
Turn ignition switch ON.
Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF.
Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON.
Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF.
Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.
To perform the self diagnostic test for PREVIOUS problems:
Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
Turn ignition switch OFF.
Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON.
Turn ignition switch ON.
Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF.
Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON.
Move selector lever to "D" and turn manual switch OFF.
Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.
Trouble codes:

11 - Duty solenoid A
12 - Duty solenoid B
13 - Shift solenoid 3
14 - Shift solenoid 2
15 - Shift solenoid 1
21 - ATF temp sensor
22 - Atmospheric sensor
23 - Engine revolution signal
24 - Duty solenoid C
25 - Engine torque control signal
31 - Throttle sensor
32 - Vehicle speed sensor 1
33 - Vehicle speed sensor 2
5

[dcarrb]

Originally Posted by deadwood

Where exactly do I see these numbered faultcodes?? I get nothing but the Power light flashing after doing it.

Aa I recall: A long flash=10, short=1.

dcb

[deadwood]

Yikes, sounds like some visual morse code action

[deadwood]

OK, got 11. Any clue at all what repair would charge to replace the solenoid?

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by deadwood

OK, got 11. Any clue at all what repair would charge to replace the solenoid?

Are you sure that it was 11 not 13?
You were complaining about binding problems, 11 is the A solenoid that controls line pressure. 13 is the C solenoid that controls the transfer clutch.

Harvey.