How clean for head gaskets??

[techy101]

How clean is good enough for new head gaskets? I've had some people tell me to use a green scrubbing pad, or very very light sanding to get everything off, but I'm afraid of damaging the surface.

Here are what I have so far on one of the heads and one side of the block, is this good enough? It feels quite smooth to the touch.






Here was how it looked prior to cleaning



And now after:

[Hondasucks]

We use 3M Roloc Bristle Discs at my work (There are three colors, yellow is for aluminum and steel, and then there is green and white, and I THINK green is steel and white is aluminum but I'm not 100% positive but the package should say) You just use one in a die grinder (You may need to buy an arbor, but they are worth it since there are all sorts of Roloc sanding and polishing pads out there.) and clean it off, you will want it cleaner than you have it.

Just make sure you don't use the wrong disk cuz if you make a divot in the surface, it won't seal and you'll have to have it shaved.

[techy101]

Originally Posted by Hondasucks

We use 3M Roloc Bristle Discs at my work (There are three colors, yellow is for aluminum and steel, and then there is green and white, and I THINK green is steel and white is aluminum but I'm not 100% positive but the package should say) You just use one in a die grinder (You may need to buy an arbor, but they are worth it since there are all sorts of Roloc sanding and polishing pads out there.) and clean it off, you will want it cleaner than you have it.

Just make sure you don't use the wrong disk cuz if you make a divot in the surface, it won't seal and you'll have to have it shaved.

What does one do about all of the little bits of stuff that will get down in the coolant and oil passages? (I'm assuming this gets done on both the head and the block)

[Splinter]

The head you should have resurfaced at a machine shop. That'll make it nice and clean.

If you use the cleaning disk method (I personally use a razor scraper *very* carefully, followed up with brake cleaner), then I wouldn't be too too worried about stuff getting into the coolant or oil passages. Just do it with the engine angled slightly down so gravity is on your side, and if you have a shop vac leave it running to absorb any dust. The minute amount that makes it into your oil should get scrubbed out by the filter.

[techy101]

I'm a bit confused. I've done the razor blade and brake cleaner method, and they are completely smooth to the touch now.

The picture shows what look like stains, but they have no texture. What is wrong with having that on there? (this is an honest question, not a sarcastic bit of lip)


I'm not willing to risk sanding the block or heads, I'm not good enough to be sure I have no divits or anything

[SVXRide]

The block should be fine. While the heads are smooth to the touch, you'll still want to take them to a machine shop to have them checked to make sure they're absolutely "flat". It's the heads that will warp and cause leakage, not the block.
-Bill

[Hondasucks]

Originally Posted by techy101

What does one do about all of the little bits of stuff that will get down in the coolant and oil passages? (I'm assuming this gets done on both the head and the block)

Shop air and brake cleaner

If you have all the bits of gasket and sealing material off, you should be okay, you just need a very clean surface for the gasket to seal properly. As for the heads, I would have them checked just to be safe, but if the car's never been overheated you are probably okay, but while you have it apart, you might as well have them checked.

This is what we use: http://www.shop3m.com/61500132180.ht...MMARINECatalog

You should be able to get them from an auto parts store, the online thing only lists them in a box of 10 for $70, and one disc will last a long time, You will want the white disk, they are the ones for aluminum. (You have to try really hard to gouge the block with these!)