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  #16  
Old 10-19-2006, 06:34 PM
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Archer999 Archer999 is offline
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Arrow Tick

The Ticking sounds like its coming from the passenger side timing belt cover.
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  #17  
Old 10-19-2006, 08:52 PM
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Arrow Maf

Ok I pulled my MAF. It looks ok. All the little do dads look like they are still hooked up.

I really hope its not my timing thats one thing I would probably have to take it to a professional shop.

Last edited by Archer999; 08-01-2007 at 08:43 PM.
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2006, 06:00 AM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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You might have inadvertantly borked something when you did that "throttle body bypass." As someone else mentioned, go back and un-do whatever you did, being sure all hoses/connections to and around the thottle body are tight. Something as simple as a broken or misplaced vacuum hose could cause the car to run badly. A coolant leak back there would explain the steam.

dcb
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  #19  
Old 10-20-2006, 07:01 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcarrb
You might have inadvertantly borked something when you did that "throttle body bypass." As someone else mentioned, go back and un-do whatever you did, being sure all hoses/connections to and around the thottle body are tight. Something as simple as a broken or misplaced vacuum hose could cause the car to run badly. A coolant leak back there would explain the steam.

dcb
Is it possible that you connected something wrong when you did the TB bypass. At first it sounded like a vacuum leak, with the high revs you reported, and the poor responsiveness. I have no idea what could be smoking. Did you notice any overheating? Definitely go over everything you have done to make sure all of your lines are connected properly. Check the TB and all of the pathways to see if you have something stuck in their too. Smoking might have been something left over from when you were working on the car, but can you check to see exactly where it is comming from. Do you have any white smoke comming out of the exhaust pipes? If you do you might have connected the auxilliary air control line to the coolant line. Keep us posted. I bet is is something simple.
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  #20  
Old 10-20-2006, 11:17 AM
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Arrow Trouble shooting

Ok I dissconnected the battery. I hook the TB bypass lines back up.

The only thing I have noticed so far is a small amount of oil in the plastic air intake and a small amount of oil going into the TB.

Tranny fluid looks good. I guess im gonna trace all the lines that I can, clean the palstic air intake and then hook the battery back up after a while.
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  #21  
Old 10-20-2006, 12:53 PM
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Arrow Maf

Ok im looking at the wiring harness that attaches to the MAF sensor.

It looks like its missing a copper connector on the harness.

If you look at the pic you will see the last one does not have a little copper contact point.

Is this normal?

Last edited by Archer999; 08-01-2007 at 08:43 PM.
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  #22  
Old 10-21-2006, 03:04 PM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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yes it is normal... How does the car idle??? I have a feeling you have a vaccum hose disconnected somewhere

Tom
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  #23  
Old 10-21-2006, 03:26 PM
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Arrow Coil

I had a friend that is good with foriegn cars come over today. The clicking I have been hearing is coming from my front passenger side coil. I can hear it clicking like its failing or arcing out.

Anyway I changed that plug but it looks like it is the coil. The subaru dealership has them for $78 dollars a piece. I cant get one from them until 8am monday.

I am also supposed to start a job on monday. I guess I will just call them and tell them the truth and if they have a problem with that oh well screw 'em.

as far as that smoke and stuff I will be replacing ATF lines and PS lines this weekend. I would love to drive my car to colorado in January. Im fixing to put some work into this little scuby. See if I can get another 233k miles out of it.
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  #24  
Old 10-21-2006, 05:59 PM
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Before you spend $78 try disconnecting the coil to see if anything changes, if it does change it may not be the coil. I agree with Tom tho, check the fittings around the TB. It's easy to bend the plastic putting it back on, without knowing.
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  #25  
Old 10-21-2006, 11:12 PM
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try the two openings that attach to the TB itself. I have had those bind up on me before and bend. This will allow unmetered air to come in an throw off the readings... Check it out, worth a shot.

Tom
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  #26  
Old 10-23-2006, 01:15 PM
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Arrow Miss

Are you talking about the black plastic piece that fits onto the TB. If so that piece is on perfectly.

I took it to a shop today. They said they tested the three coils on the passenger side and they were putting out 0.2 - 0.3 When normal out put is 0.6 - 0.8

Does that sound like accurate information to you.

Then they tried to tell me that it might be a bad engine cylinder and that they wanted like $100 buck to do a cylinder compression test. I said maybe later and went home.

The car runs fine when its cold. When it warms up, it has a miss when it is at an idle. Accellerating and highway cruising it is running fine.

Last edited by Archer999; 10-23-2006 at 01:19 PM.
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  #27  
Old 10-23-2006, 05:17 PM
oab_au oab_au is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archer999
Are you talking about the black plastic piece that fits onto the TB. If so that piece is on perfectly.

I took it to a shop today. They said they tested the three coils on the passenger side and they were putting out 0.2 - 0.3 When normal out put is 0.6 - 0.8

Does that sound like accurate information to you.

Then they tried to tell me that it might be a bad engine cylinder and that they wanted like $100 buck to do a cylinder compression test. I said maybe later and went home.

The car runs fine when its cold. When it warms up, it has a miss when it is at an idle. Accellerating and highway cruising it is running fine.
It is really hard to measure the resistance of the primary winding in the coil, when the resistance is so small. There could be that much resistance in the test leads.

I reckon that you can be sure, that the miss that you have is not a coil, as it fires OK when under load, this is when a coil will break down, not when idling.
I would go for a vacuum leak, probably under the manifold.

Harvey.
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  #28  
Old 10-23-2006, 06:39 PM
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Arrow vaccum leak

I will go over every rubber hose under that manifold in the morning. I will simply replace most of them. Somtimes they may visually look good but still have a small leak.

I hope it is a vaccum leak. I have to mention the strange click that sounds like its coming from the passenger side front coil, when the car misses. Pherhaps it could be a valve that is clicking when it misses due to the vaccum leak.

I also want to mention that this problem was not overnight. About 6 months ago it would miss while sitting at a red light every now and then. Then recently I was driving the car hard and it began to miss going down the road.

But now it is back to missing only when at an idle.

I see the bolts for my intake seam easy to get to. If I have replacement gasketts is the manifold a pain in the butt to take off and put back on. It looks fairly easy, and would removing the manifold allow me to get to most of the vacum lines under it?

Thanks for all the help. Im trying not to give up on this car.
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  #29  
Old 10-23-2006, 07:41 PM
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Sounds like you might be opening a can of worms! First double check all vacuum lines, especially on the bottom of the intake tube (the one that goes to the TB). Also check the drivers side, that pipe has all kinds of lines coming off of it, in several places. Then before you change vacuum lines, get a can of carb cleaner and lightly spray the lines while the car is running. Be careful as it is flamable, listen for changes in the idle.
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