JDM central locking

#1 03-04-2005, 08:08 AM

I have recently bought another import, and I do not understand how the automatic door locking works. It appears that above 15kph, the doors are locked, but they are only unlocked when the driver's door is opened. So, when I stopped yesterday with the engine running to drop off my other half, I had to open the driver's door in order to unlock her door. This cannot be how it was designed. Can anyone shed some light on this?

SilverSpear · #2 03-04-2005, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blackbir2001
I have recently bought another import, and I do not understand how the automatic door locking works. It appears that above 15kph, the doors are locked, but they are only unlocked when the driver's door is opened. So, when I stopped yesterday with the engine running to drop off my other half, I had to open the driver's door in order to unlock her door. This cannot be how it was designed. Can anyone shed some light on this?

It seems that some SVX's are like that. I should point that some locks are electrical in nature while other are air pressured... you must have the second one in your car.

paddlesnz · #3 03-04-2005, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blackbir2001
I have recently bought another import, and I do not understand how the automatic door locking works. It appears that above 15kph, the doors are locked, but they are only unlocked when the driver's door is opened. So, when I stopped yesterday with the engine running to drop off my other half, I had to open the driver's door in order to unlock her door. This cannot be how it was designed. Can anyone shed some light on this?

On early JDM models, that is how the door locking works. After numerous complaints, Subaru added a switch on the transmission console in July '94 to overcome this.

#4 03-04-2005, 12:53 PM

I thought that was the case. On my previous 1992 I got around the problem by installing an alarm/immobiliser with remote control and then removing the central locking fuse. I really don't want to pay for an alarm/immobiliser, so I will look into central locking with a remote, and then remove the fuse again. Unless anyone else has a better idea.

svxistentialist · #5 03-04-2005, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blackbir2001
I have recently bought another import, and I do not understand how the automatic door locking works. It appears that above 15kph, the doors are locked, but they are only unlocked when the driver's door is opened. So, when I stopped yesterday with the engine running to drop off my other half, I had to open the driver's door in order to unlock her door. This cannot be how it was designed. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Mine is the same. Design fault is how I think of it. I am hoping to wire a switch into one of the blanks under the clocks. This is how they rectified the later cars.

Joe

floatingkiwi · #6 03-07-2005, 03:51 AM

we have two 1992 JDM specs in the family. My mother's one does the locking-at-speed thing, but mine has had an aftermarket alarm fitted and does not do that.
The central locking still works fine via the key or physically pushing the lock down.
So there is a way to stop it locking at speed (If that is what you are after here) - I'll have to look at my car and see if I can figure out what has been done.

Matt

#7 03-07-2005, 04:58 AM

Joe, do you know which wire feeds the speed sensor information to the central locking system. If I can identify it, I can cut it which would keep the central locking function, but isolate the speed sensitive function.
Matt, that would be very helpful

Dave

svxistentialist · #8 03-07-2005, 05:02 AM

Thanks Matt.

I actually don't mind it locking the doors at speed [15 kms/hr on mine]. It is safer against bag-snatchers and the like.

The real problem is the front seat passenger is locked in when wishing to exit. Lifting the passenger door latch does not de-activate the central locking, like the driver's latch does.

So the problem remains of giving the passenger a means of egress. On the later modified SVXs, a push-button below the clocks de-activated the central locking. Installing and wiring in one of those is what I had in mind.

It just occurs to me that whatever wires are in the driver's door inside latch that turns off the central locking, it would be just as useful to have the passenger latch wired the same and doing the same thing. And it would save the difficulty of wiring a loom to the dash, if such was not already in place, as seems likely.

Any advice you have would be welcome.

Thanks

Joe

floatingkiwi · #9 03-07-2005, 05:10 AM

Your best bet would be to wire up a switch as you suggest.
You can't use the action of the drivers door latch because it's actually only got a steel cable/stiff rod that actuates the mechanism that is just inside the back of the door (near the actual latching point). All the action levers in the door are hard rods that actuate this main mechanism - all the switches are hard wired into this main mechanism (hope that isn't too complicated!)
The main problem here is that this main mechanism is diferent in both doors - the switches don't exist in the passengers' door.

svxistentialist · #10 03-07-2005, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Blackbir2001
Joe, do you know which wire feeds the speed sensor information to the central locking system. If I can identify it, I can cut it which would keep the central locking function, but isolate the speed sensitive function.
Matt, that would be very helpful

Dave

Don't know this Dave.

The manual I have is US, and the wiring is different.

As stated above, I don't mind it coming on automatically at speed. all I want is a way to disarm it when letting people out.

Joe

svxistentialist · #11 03-07-2005, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by floatingkiwi
Your best bet would be to wire up a switch as you suggest.
You can't use the action of the drivers door latch because it's actually only got a steel cable/stiff rod that actuates the mechanism that is just inside the back of the door (near the actual latching point). All the action levers in the door are hard rods that actuate this main mechanism - all the switches are hard wired into this main mechanism (hope that isn't too complicated!)
The main problem here is that this main mechanism is diferent in both doors - the switches don't exist in the passengers' door.

This is as expected Matt. Since you have seen inside both doors, do you think that fitting a driver's switch [rhs for this market] to the passenger lhs door would work to disarm the central locking?

It is likely an easier fit than a switch and loom on the dash.

Joe

#12 03-07-2005, 06:12 AM

Matt,
Our notes may have crossed in the post. Somewhere there must be a wire from some speed sensor to the control unit for the locking mechanism that could be cut. That would then take away the signal to lock the doors, which would then remove the need to unlock them!

Dave

svxistentialist · #13 03-07-2005, 07:31 AM

Hi Dave

As explained above, the circuit diagrams in the US manual I have does not show this wire, because I think the doors don't lock at speed in the US.

But to give you a little more information, the following may help, but take your own responsibility for anything you cut based on this info.

It is likely the speed signal, which is a square wave pulse, comes from Speed Sensor 2. This is a black sensor in the engine bay, three wires coming from it. #3 is Red/white and goes to the power. #2 is black and white, goes to earth. So #1 the middle one is the signal wire, yellow and red. These colours apply to the US 92 version, mind.

This yellow/red wire goes into the loom and emerges into the cabin. It is connected somewhere in the loom to other circuits. The circuit that goes to the speedo clock from speed sensor 2 is white, connects to position c14.

I would expect a spur from this circuit is connected to the door lock timer, or possibly [possibly also] to the security module. These are both under the passenger side of the dash. Sorry I do not have better and clearer information than this.

Incidentally, and this may be more useful [at least to me!

], the extra signal wire from the driver's door into the door timer module that must disengage the central locking is coloured white with a red stripe. It connects to pin 7 of the door lock timer.

I would strongly expect if we were to fit a driver's door actuator from the US [you would also have to use the 4-wire connector], and connect the two white/red wires before the door timer module, then both inside door latches would disarm the central locking.
Problem solved.

Joe

floatingkiwi · #14 03-07-2005, 05:53 PM

exactly Blackbir2001

I just have to look on my car and see how the alarm people disabled the lock at speed feature.
Matt

floatingkiwi · #15 03-07-2005, 05:57 PM

Quote"
Ahhhhhh, so

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by floatingkiwi
Your best bet would be to wire up a switch as you suggest.
You can't use the action of the drivers door latch because it's actually only got a steel cable/stiff rod that actuates the mechanism that is just inside the back of the door (near the actual latching point). All the action levers in the door are hard rods that actuate this main mechanism - all the switches are hard wired into this main mechanism (hope that isn't too complicated!)
The main problem here is that this main mechanism is diferent in both doors - the switches don't exist in the passengers' door.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is as expected Matt. Since you have seen inside both doors, do you think that fitting a driver's switch [rhs for this market] to the passenger lhs door would work to disarm the central locking?

It is likely an easier fit than a switch and loom on the dash.

Joe"

No joe, the units are all integrated -you'd probably have to put in a new microswitch..........

It would get very messy. But could be done.