Awd binding again - Page 3

nysvx10 · #31 06-29-2006, 10:13 AM

Which solenoid then. Wouldn't a code be thrown? And I'm guessing this would have not been replaced during the rebuild. Are causes such as mounts/differential ruled out?

Earthworm · #32 06-29-2006, 10:22 AM

It's Duty Solenoid C located in the transmission extension.

nysvx10 · #33 06-29-2006, 07:55 PM

If it is the solenoid, wouldn't the power light flash at startup? Could it possibly be related to the driveline? I heard of the CV joint often going out in the driveshaft after doing some searching on here.

Motorsport-SVX · #34 07-01-2006, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earthworm

It's Duty Solenoid C located in the transmission extension.

I need one of those too
If I call the dealer and give them the name are they going to
know what Im asking for ?
I know its going out on a limb here, but any pics of the trans
where its located exactly or anyone have the part # for the
Duty Solenoid by chance ?

nysvx10 · #35 07-01-2006, 04:37 PM

I put the FWD fuse in again, and the shudder IS still there even when in FWD, it is just hardly noticeable. So I guess it is definitely not the solenoid. What else could it be? Would the clutch pack be rebuilt during a tranny rebuild? Could it maybe be a bad CV on an axle? or maybe a bad driveshaft?

Motorsport: When I was searching for information on the solenoid, I did come across a picture. Do a search and you should be able to find it.

oab_au · #36 07-01-2006, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nysvx10

I put the FWD fuse in again, and the shudder IS still there even when in FWD, it is just hardly noticeable. So I guess it is definitely not the solenoid. What else could it be? Would the clutch pack be rebuilt during a tranny rebuild? Could it maybe be a bad CV on an axle? or maybe a bad driveshaft?

Motorsport: When I was searching for information on the solenoid, I did come across a picture. Do a search and you should be able to find it.

The C Solenoid may be OK, but the Transfer valve that it operates to apply the clutch, may be sticking to keep the clutch applied. It is part of the C Solenoid/transfer valve assemble.

Harvey.

nysvx10 · #37 07-01-2006, 07:44 PM

So that would mean that the valve would have to be replaced then? I think I am going to take it to the shop who did the rebuild and see what they have to say.

TomsSVX · #38 07-01-2006, 10:17 PM

OK, the reason I said turn the car off is the best way to test it BECAUSE, whent he engine is not running, the oil pump on the trans is not running. With no oil pressure throughout the trans, Solenoid AND the transfer valve do absolutley nothing. This means.... if the shudder or vibration is still there is is mechanical fault not solenoid related. You should check the CV and the U-joints in the axles and driveshaft for firmness or stiffness before you do anything repair related. A sticky U-joint will more than likely cause some noises before it vibrates (trust me I know... thnx svxfiles

) SO that being said, test it by making it vibrate and quickly shutting down the engine. If the vibrations/shudder/binding stops it is solenoid/transfer valve related. If it continues it is most likely clutch/axle/driveshaft related. Cannot always blame electronics sometimes mechanics fail.

Tom

P.S. the transfer clutches are not always rebuilt in a trans rebuild... Some mechanics like myself deal with the 4eat in 3 pieces... Front diff/auto trans/transfer assembly(AKA rear extension) if one piece is working well why fix it?

redsvx94 · #39 08-05-2006, 11:26 PM

Hi All, I've been having this AWD binding problem for a while. May be a relatively mild case, I notice the deep vibrations only when doing tight turns during parking. I have tried some tests recommended by TomsSVX and others and would like some help on diagnosis on my problem from those who are in the know!
1. There is no blinking power light on start-up.
2. With FWD fuse in, FWD light is on and the vibration goes away.
3. With engine running, the FWD fuse contacts resister 6.6V on my millimeter. Is this right voltage here in relation to the duty solenoid C?
4. I tried the method TomsSVX came up with. While making very tight turns,I put into neutral after building up a little bit of speed. I noticed the vibration goes away immediately. Of course the speed quickly reduces. After subsequently turning off the engine, I still don't feel the vibration, though by now it’s hard to feel things clearly since the steering wheel is heavy and the car is stopping.

So the result on the above 3rd suggests that it is NOT clutch/axle/driveshaft related, but likely solenoid/transfer valve related? If the voltage on the FWD fuse contacts is the right value, and since I don’t have any power light blinkin power light, the solenoid C seems to be working? Then how do I check the transfer valve? Is there any other test I can do to check solenoid or valve without dropping or getting deep into the tranny?
Thanks!

TomsSVX · #40 08-06-2006, 09:00 AM

sounds like it is clutch related...

Tom

redsvx94 · #41 08-06-2006, 09:45 AM

Uh, Tom, it seems my description below was not clear. The vibration went away when I put in neutral and stopped the engine ,while making a tight turns. Wouldn't this suggest it is NOT clutch related?

TomsSVX · #42 08-06-2006, 06:45 PM

If it were solenoid related it would bring up a code more than likely and the FWD light would not come on at all. Anyway thats what I think but not experiencing this myself I would not be able to give you a complete answer

Tom

redsvx94 · #43 08-06-2006, 07:57 PM

Right. That's why I was wondering about the transfer valve? Or would there be any problem with TCU?

Trevor · #44 08-06-2006, 09:24 PM

This would appear to be a curly one therefore unlikely causes are worthy of consideration.

You mention not being able to feel things through the steering wheel with the power steering inactive. Also that the problem exists only under power in a tight turn. Could it be CV joint related or another problem within the front wheel drive?

Your reaction may be, --- "don't be silly it is coming from the drive shaft area". However worth a thought in the circumstances.

oab_au · #45 08-06-2006, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redsvx94

Right. That's why I was wondering about the transfer valve? Or would there be any problem with TCU?

As the binding goes away when you put the fuse in, the C solenoid and the transfer valve is working OK. The binding could be caused by excessive line pressure. The TCU applies pressure to the transfer clutch duty cycle, in accordance with the line pressure at the time.

When cruising there should be enough transfer pressure applied to give 10% drive to the rear, if the line pressure is higher than it should be, the clutch pressure will be higher than the 10%, to cause the binding.

The best way to sort it out would be to check the transfer pressure at the rear of the box, to see if it is higher than it should be, if so check the line pressure. Do you have the shift kit fitted? as this can cause the problem.

Harvey.